S130Z

Loss of compression, higher KPA at idle, lower engine idle, pressurized crank case at idle, burning oil and failure to gap the rings correctly. It pretty much all points to the rings.

Found some!

Hey guys, I'm looking for a set of L28ET piston rings for OEM pistons(stock bore). If you have a new set, I need them! MSA says there is a 3 week shipping time and I need them now! Thanks, Adam Silver

Well I had a solid pull through both 4th and 5th on the highway(killed that Mach 1) and my AFR's were about 12.8 at full boost. I should have been paying attention to my AFR's. My tune was not dialed in. I have excessice crank case preasure with a good functioning PCV and I am now smoking out the exhaust, blue smoke. Not to mention the loss of compression.

Well guys, Iv'e decided to keep it. Over a couple sets of knocking down some pins, a I friend convinced me we can do it at the shop I work at over the weekend. Sorry Sticky, I hve to back out of the offer. While I have you guys reading, should I put in a new head gasket while I have it apart. The one I have in there is a factory Nissan head gasket and I've put about 1700 miles on it. I know it's prrobably a stupid question, but I'm very low on money at the moment. Thanks for all the support!

Sold!!!!

.......(I live at home with a very anal retentive father that loves his clean garage, and I live on a very steep hill, but don't tell anyone)

Thanks man. I also have the smallest garage in the world. I can't even stress how much of a pain it was doing the swap with about a foot and a half of space all the way around the car.

My biggest problem is my time constraints. I don't have the money to buy another long block and I don't have another car to drive in its down time.

After dumping about 5k into the S130(MS-II, GT30R, cylinder head work, injectors, fuel rail, intercooler, parts car, and all new everything) for my turbo motor project, she blew the rings on me. Guess I should have compensated in my ring gap for the extra boost. I really don't have time and money to re-ring the engine as I work full time and am trying to save money for college. I think I may get rid of her and get a good running car to get me through college. I may come back to the Z world in about 6 years when I have time and money. Or maybe I will suck it up and re-ring it, only thing is my parants are going to be madder than hell! (I really need to move out)

Well I realized that my crankcase is pressurized at idle. I checked my PCV valve and it is functioning properly. When I first built the motor and had it running it would pull a vacuum in the crankcase, but now it does not. I also noticed that it idles about 2kpa higher than it usually does. I think I may have cooked my rings on my recent encounter with the Mach 1.

Although I am not an ezpert on the RB motors, I know that most engines have some major differences between their N/A and turbo assemblies. I'm sure the N/A RB will have a higher compression ratio and the turbo RB will most likely have dished pistons. Also, the Turbo model will have a specific grind for the cam shaft. I would buy the turbo version because in the long run you will have saved more money, and have a stronger engine. You really want the one that is built for running a turbo, they were built to be boosted. Also, think what a pain it is going to be trying to find all the misc. turbo parts to adapt an N/A motor to turbo, thats just more $$$$ to spend.

Well I went out to grab a large air compressor water filter to act as a catch can, but all the ones I have found highly recomend them not being used with oil. So I got to thinking and grabbed a tall aluminum soda bottle and fitted some -12 braided hose running about 1/3~1/2 way down in the bottle. I then created vents twords the top of the bottle, which I will try and filter. I really wanted to make a baffle inside the bottle, but I dont have the means of doing so. This is just a temporary fix and will hopefully be replaced by something a bit more fancy.

I found this great link, by the way, for an inexpensive dual catch can setup. http://www.mx6.com/forums/1g-faq-engine/110096-dual-oil-catch-cans.html

I would prefer one from a 82-83 model.

Email sent.

Thanks for the quick replies guys. The excessive oil that was burning was deffinately comming out from my valve cover breather. KTM, that was the answer I was looking for. Although my state does not have emissions laws and I could simply run a vent tube to drain undernieth my car, I would like to avoid more stains in my driveway. I may try and make my own dual tank system with internal baffles. Or maybe run a single tank for both vents and blumb in a baffled vacuum source.

After searching all night, between HBZ and Google, I am stumped(and may also be a horrible searcher). Basically, I need an oil catch can, but I'm a little stumped on the basics of how they function. Let me point out my understanding of the system. The stock PCV system on the L28ET pulls a vacuum in the block from the bottom of the intake manifold to reduce pressure in the crankcase. There is a one way valve there to prevent positive pressure entering the crankcase. The vacuum inside the crankcase pulls air from the vent in the valve cover which is routed into the intake plumbing to prevent unmeasured air. Since I am running MS-II, I do not have to worry about unmeasured air in this way. I currently have a filter on the breather of the valve cover(like many other turbocharged members here have) and I have the bottom crankcase vent plumbed into the intake manifold as it comes stock. Getting to my missunderstandings, on a standard oil catch can(the style with two vent bungs and a simple drain valve at the bottom, as seen in the pic) the valve cover would vent to one side, then the crankcase would vent to the other side. In my book, this would result in a sealed crankcase, which is not good and can blow seals. Then I have seen catch cans with a filter on the top of them. I would assume that there would be a type of baffle system inside to keep the oil vapors from comming through the filter. Thus, defeating most of the benefits of using a catch can. Guys, I must be missing something here. Can someone shed some light on my situation. Although my sweet victory against an 04 Mach 1 was so much sweeter as I left him with my car billowing smoke from the excessive amount of burning oil. Thanks, Adam Silver

Hey guys, I'm looking for an L28ET(if it matters that it's from a turbo, I don't know) crankshaft pully/damper. It needs to have the timing indicator marks on it as the one I have does not. Adam Silver

Take it to your local machine shop and have them hot tank it. Last thing I got hot tanked about that size cost me about $20, it's worth the price.

Hey man, I am running MS but I live in Columbia SC. I noticed you are not too far from Mooresville. I have a friend who lives up there and used to work at a dyno where the tuner was VERY familiar with MS. If you are still needing help with anything, give me a shout and I can find out some contact info for you.

Any updates Jefffer? I may order my kit soon and give it a shot once I figure out my voltage spikes.

Well when you get to the TURBO motor part of your build, give me a shout and I can give you some pointers and answer as many questions as you need. Maybe I could even lend a hand with some things. BTW, the car looks amazing. Theres something about a white Z....... Good luck! Keep me posted. EDIT: And I would deffinately get the suspension and brakes working good before an engine swap.

Try this. With the engine as cold as can be, get a spray bottle with a heavy soap and water solution in it and spray it on thick where you would suspect a leak. spray it on soon after you crank the car up and look for bubles! P.S. If the car is too hot, it may evaporate the water!(you probably could have figured that out with out my help though)