S130Z

Your avitar should be saying something a little different then Z Pride! Congrats Phill!

Get new ones, it's worth it. I spent like $20 bucks on ebay for new ones and it really makes a difference. As long as you know how to solder, its really easy to do.

You can have the best of both worlds, it just depends on how much you are willing to spend . By the way Cam, The highest intake temp that I have recorded so far after 15psi was 80 degrees F. I hasnt been too cold here in SC and I am also using a cheap ebay intercooler.

I hope you like it man! Any specs on the one you got?

Hey Cam! I am running a SlowBoy Racing T3/T4 Gerrett GT3063 w/ Stage 3 wheels, .70 A/R compressor and .63 A/R turbine, 4" ID inlet w/ a ported shroud. It has a great boost threshold and hits 15psi very quickly. I can send you some datalogs showing what it does. The guys at SlowBoy are great and I get quite a good deal through them now as I have spent a good bit of money with them. I paid $675 shipped to my door since it was the first thing I bought from them. I can try and get you a better deal if you want to go with it since you have been such a great help to me. This turbo is available in any size you want along with having internal and external wastegate options. I am also getting rid of my manifold with external WG adapter because it runs my turbo into my steering shaft on my ZX. I will work fine on the S30's and you can ask BigPhill about it because we are running the same manifold setups. Let me know what you think and if you have any more questions! Adam Silver

Year old gas is something I would not run in my car(but thats just me). Gas goes stail, looses its octane and is bad for the performance of your car. I would drain and refill with new gas. And if you plan on leaving it sit for the winter or more than a month, put some fuel stabilizer in the tank and run it for a minute or two.

Measure between the filter and the fuel rail. Low pressure could cause the car not to run. Idle pressure should be around 34 psi.

Also.....Old gas is bad gas. Drain your tank and put some fresh gas in there. And +1 on fuel pressure. Also change your fuel filter.

Sorry man, but mine is a five pin. I'm sure someone has one here that would be willing to sell one cheap. I wish I could tell you what pins you could jump to give the ECU a false idle signal to try and rule out the AFM. Good Luck!

Update guys! After sending an email to the wonderful people over at DIYautoTune including my msq. and datalogs, I may have found my problem. Here is the email I recieved back. """"I have looked at your datalogs and your MSQ file. The jumping in your TPS signal is so small I don't think it is the issue. In looking at both the datalog and your MSQ at the same time I think I have found something that may help your issue. Also to test with a TPS just unplugged is somewhat unreliable in the resulting readings. If you would like to test this, jump your TPS Signal wire to ground through a 1K Ohm resistor. Your Accel enrichments are set to be blended between your MAP sensor and TPS. It is set to 90% MAP and 10% TPS. It looks like your accel / decel enrich troubles are coming from the fluctuations in the readings from your MAP sensor and the low MAPdot number currently set at 40. I would either set it 100% TPS or raise your MAPdot threshold a bit the same as you have done for your TPSdot."""" After doing such procedures, I have now accuired a nice steady idle and am working out the bucking and kicking from my light throttle accelerations. So once again I have way overlooked my problems, but I hope this can help people in the future.

It's all good man. This will be a BIG learing curve for you. Get a test kit and put it between your filter and fuel rail. You should get something like 32psi at idle. BTW I also have a complete fuel rail with slightly larger injectors(they have about 10k miles on them) and a ZX fuel pump all in good working order for sale. Hope all of this helps!

Your cam timing may be off. Did you make sure the cam gear was in the correct place when you got it back from the machine shop. I know when I got mine back I had to double check it, and sure enough it was in a different spot. Also, did you make sure the timing chain did not fall into the front cover while you had the head off? And did you make sure to mark what link on the chain went on a corrisponding tooth before you took it off? If you did not do any of these, you will most likly need to putt the front cover and redo your timing.

I did the basic troubleshooting first, swapped sensors, moved/untangled lines, and redid my grounds(also added more grounds direct from the battery). After none of these helped I unplugged the TPS and just left the car in the on position(without it running) and I still got spikes. My coil is wired in through the fuel pump relay so it had no power unless cranking and running. After noticing the spikes were still there(and darkness fell upon me) I gave up for the night. As far as the plug wires go, I didn't even care to swap in some magnecores because I was getting the spikes without the car running. I want to switch to shielded wire, but I am having the hardest time find a place that carries it. I have checked all the auto stores and RadioShacks. I have also tried finding noise filters, but I have had no luck with that. Sorry for such a bland introduction post, the girlfriend was over and was getting a little restless as I was looking through my datalogs and writing up this post. EDIT: No I am not using the relay board. And yes I am using the 240SX TPS.

It could possibly be your AFM. I have a spare one and I live in Columbia if you have the desire to pick it up to try it out. Mine is from an 83 so you might need to send me a pick of the plug so I can compare it with the one I have. Also, have you cheked your fuel pressure?

So ever since I did my MS-II install, I have been getting really bad signal noise. As I watch my Accel Enrichment graph in tuner studio, it jumps between 1500 and 4000%. The thing that really gets my scratching my head is I get these spikes with the car off(but with the ignition on) and with the TPS unplugged(as well as with the car running and TPS plugged in). Anyone have an idea on how to fix this? By the way I have read through the stickies and searched my @$$ off trying to find the answer. I am running MS-II 3.57 pre-assembled from DIYautoTune and tuning in TunerStudio. I can't seem to upload my datalogs, some invalid file crap. If anyone wants to send me their email to take a look at them I can email them. Thanks!

I'm still running my old manifold right now(I got it resurfaced). I have to get a flat spot and a hole machined on the one I got from you so I can mount my external wastegate. I'll let you know how it goes.

Hey man, I thought you were talking about the oil feed spot off between the block and oil pressure sender. I now realized what you are talking about. If you want to run braided AN lines off that for an oil cooler, I used these banjo lines from this site http://www.unisteer.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=UNISTEER&Product_Code=8021570&Category_Code= They are 18mm banjo fittings with -6AN fittings. I hope this helps!

Good one Derek. Not to discurage you from buying this from Derek, but if you are wanting to run a braided line or an AN fitting for your oil supply, I would go down to a local hydrolics supply company and get a fitting that is compatible with AN fittings. I know from experiance that little inverted flare in the block will keep you from using AN's.

Just to throw this out there, I just finished my install yesterday and have a fairly good base tune. GO TURBO!!!!! This is the first turbo car I have ever "experienced" and I am never going back. I'm only on 5psi at the moment, but it beats the hell out of any N/A combo I have experienced. It put me out of my daily driver for 2 weeks(due to other stupid ZX issues), but I could have done it in 2 days if there were not some minor issues that came up. What I need to get at here is if more power is what you are seeking, go farther than just MegaSquirt on an EFI conversion. Turbo is amazing and with the correct planning and reading you can do an entire motor swap, with an extra hand, in a couple days. If I could fly out to Texas and help you, I would. The experience for me has been amazing (even after all the unfortunate events that happened) and I am not even close to the end of the journey. With MS you will never get board and there are always things to upgrade. I say do your EFI swap, get familliar with MegaSquirt, then go Turbo!

Personally, I didn't even deal with the relay board. I just bought two relays and wired them up via the diagram given in the harness from MS. It's really not that complicated to wire in. There is really no splicing into the factory stuff like FlatBlack said, it's just one wire in the key switch.

As of yesterday, I'm finally in the game! Engine: 1981 Turbo motor freshly rebuilt. Stock bottom end with some port blending in the head. Backed by my stock N/A 83ZX tranny Turbo: SlowBoy Racing GT30 T3/T4 .70a/r compressor .63a/r turbine Stage 3 wheel. (This thing whistles like a referee!) Exhaust: 3" Mandrel bent downpipe......(no more to it than that) Electronics: MegaSquirt II PCB 3.57 running fuel and spark. Stock 82 turbo dizzy. Innovate LC-1 wideband. I'm running CygnusX's maps from his post in 2007. Working on it in Tuner Studio. Fuel: 440cc AZC o-ring injectors. AZC high flow fuel pump. Pallnet fuel rail. Boost: As of now I have no idea. I have not gone over 3psi(trying to be safe on breakin...also have my rev limiter set at 4500) Running off the WG spring. I'm guessing between 7 and 9lbs. I dont know because it was a used Turbonetics evolution wastegate. Bolt ons: Front mount intercooler with 2.5" mandrel bent piping. Spec lightweight flywheel. ClutchMasters 240mm stage 3 clutch kit. Aftermarket oil cooler. Some others I'm sure I forgot. Power: Unknown

Hey guys! Just got my turbo swap 95% finished. I will throw some pics up in a couple days.

Although you shot me down again Tony D, you have a good point. The overall potential of the engine would not be too much better than a standard DOHC.

I just did my MSII install and I admit that I made a mistake on my install. I bought everything preassembled so I knew I couldn't mess up on the board. Be carefull when wiring in your shielded wire for your dizzy, don't let the sheilding touch your solder or the wire(you will end up with no tach signal in MS). That problem stumped me for days. One sugestion to you, read the MegaManual. Go through the configuration part first. There are things you have to change outside the actual MegaTune program to get things the way you need them. I made the mistake of reading after I got it started and tryed to tune it. Over all it's really not that bad, pretty simple actually. There is tons of information availble for it to make the install a breeze. And if you do go with it and have a problem, shoot me a PM and I will do my best to help you out.

Let me update my setup again. My clutch was grabbing way too soon off the floor so I had to change something. I took a DSM slave rod and cut it down so it was about 1/4" longer than my stock one. Now it works great.