S130Z

Shoot me a PM and I'll see what I can help you out with. I have a buddy(he is a member here, JNJDragracing) that does this stuff all day long. PM me and I'll give you some more info. By the way, what part of Columbia are you in?

I had been thinking about all of these aspects before I had posted this thread. The main killer in this situation is running an intercooler. The intercooler completely ruins the pipe diameter relevance. I have been seeing people running a fairly small diameter pipe coming from the turbo to the intercooler, then having a larger pipe on the other side to match up with their TB. What is the reason for this?

Bump!

Choosing the Correct Intercooler/Charge Pipe Size I have been thinking of this topic for quite some time now and after running a few searches, I feel like this would be good to discuss. There must be a precise and correct pipe size for your specific application, correct? Depending on the number of cylinders, the size of your intake ports, and size turbo you are running, etc... you should have a specific sized pipe for maximum flow. Having too large of piping can yield boost lag. Your turbo is trying to fill the pipe instead of feeding the cylinders. The longer it takes to fill the piping, the longer it will take to achieve peek boost in the cylinder. On the other hand, have too small of piping can have a negative effect too. Although you decrease boost lag by being able to pressurize your entire system faster, you loose high flow capabilities. There must be a mathematical equation that can give you a specific sized piping. Thus giving you maximum flow. I would like to hear some ideas from others on this as I have a few thoughts in my head about how to calculate something like this. Last question, from where are you getting your PSI readings from? Are you measuring from the intake plenum, or from an individual runner. I ask this because it makes sense to me that the closer to the cylinder you are, the more accurate of a reading you are going to get.

I took this picture yesterday when I went to go look at buying another Z. The pic looked so interesting to me, I thought I would put it up in here.

Well my ballast was not my problem, it was the "you get what you pay for" part. I bought cheap bulbs and one blew out. I will get pics up soon as the new bulb comes in.

Put me down for a rear! I know this was posted quite some time ago, so are you still trying to make them?

Stan, Those housings with the lights provided by the seller are terrible. I feel like if you don't go with a retrofit projector HID setup, then you should run a quality sealed beam lamp. You get what you pay for, and $30 is not getting you that much. Spend a little bit of money for some quality lamps. I did my HID projectors for roughly $120 bucks and some elbow grease, and that's including everything. Now I get 10X better lighting and I am actually comfortable driving at night with 30% tint on my windshield. Running these cheap $30 dollar lights is kinda like driving on 4 spare tires(the ones that come original with the Datsun), it's just not safe.

I accidentally left the old o-ring from the oil filter stuck to the bock of my boss's truck during an oil change. I put the new filter on and cranked up the truck. Oil went everywhere and I had to clean it all up. This was when I was first learing about cars. I was changing my rotors and pads and had one of my brake calipers off the rotor trying to figure out hoe to get the piston back in to compensate for the thicker new brake pads. I went in the car and pushed the brake pedal down. Sure enough, the piston popped out.

Tonight I found out, what I thought were weak old bulbs, was a combination of weak, old bulbs and a bad ballast. I will be getting a new ballast shortly. I guess this is what I get for having ebay projectors. I tried to take pics, but I could not get a good image. I need a nice wall to shine my lights on. I did notice how effective the beam line was while driving. The higher section starts dead center in the middle of the two lanes.

Keep doing your research. It took me about 10 months of reading before I was completely ready for a turbo swap. If you said you searched and found nothing on this, then you didn't look hard enough. There is a lot more to it than what you are thinking. Trust me, I tried the NA block turbo transplant, and it is cheaper and more reliable to just pick up a turbo motor. If you do it right now, you won't have to do it right after you have done it wrong(That sounded a bit weird to me... oh well).

This is also a pretty good thread on retro fitting projectors. http://www.theretrofitsource.com/services.html

I got my 3000k bulbs in tonight and WOW what a difference. I will be getting picks up tomorrow night for everyone. Just for a reference, I tested out my other projector housings, and they are a bit brighter and have a nicer spread pattern than the ones I got out of the Hyundai. I will not be using the new ones out of the Infiniti as they are too large to fit in with the S130 brackets. If someone wants to send me a pick of the headlight bracket of a S30 for a clearance reference, that would be awesome. Also if some one is interested in a pair for a S30, I will make this set to sell.

Those housings are indeed the ones that you need to cut up and retrofit with a true projector housing. But these are at a good price to start off on a custom pair. I am going to post a link to my thread for HID Projectors for others to see. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=146149

Read through this some. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=144276&page=3

Is this an automatic transmision? I have heard of people having problems on the old autos hanging at around 4k. I guess there is a valve in the trans that gets stuck. That could be your problem, I will send you a link to something similar when I find it.

Don't even start with that Sputnik.

Honestly, I cannot remember exactly what model, bu it was an Infiniti. I just walk around looking for projectors. If you come across a newer Infiniti Q45 with the Gatling Projectors, get them and send them my way.

Good catch! Missed that one! I'm still trying to find some more things that are wrong with this!

I just watched your video, the popping is most likely from the injectors being wide open and running a rich Air/Fuel mixture. Also, don't double up on your grounds.

1st off, in the second pic to the right of the yellow tape, that ground is for your fuel injectors. It closes the loop, if it's not hooked up, your injectors will stay wide open. Next, you need to check all of your open piping off the TB for vacuum leaks. Then disconnect and remove the AAC valve ( the silver thing next to where the cold start injector was). It is OK to leave the AAC and cold start unplugged. If I think of anything else, I'll let you know.

Just a quick update, I picked up another set of projectors today. This set is about 3/4" wider than the first set that I got. There are 4 total projectors, 2 for low beams and 2 for hi beams. I will try and make these for a set that I can sell if anyone is interested. Once I get my new bulbs in, I will tests these projectors for brightness and get some pics for everyone.

It's not "Im on a Boat", It will be soon. Its "Boat's n' Hoes" from "Step Brothers".

I was just watching TV and I thought I caught a glimpse of an S30. I hopped on youtube and tracked down the commercial. And there it was, about 6 seconds into it. I tried looking for the thread where all of these sightings have been posted, but couldn't find it. Enjoy! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wqB5uvyTolg&eurl=http%3A%2F%2Fvideo.google.com%2Fvideosearch%3Fhl%3Den%26q%3Dmobil%25201%2520nascar%2520commercial%26um%3D1%26ie%3DUTF-8%26sa%3DN%26tab&feature=player_embedded