BLKMGK

Mine was "new" from a local parts house. It just didn't seem to have enough "oomph" when it didn't make awful grinding sounds. Flywheel was a brand new Centerforce, thankfully it doesn't seem to be damaged. The Jeg's starter bolted right up and is nice and SMALL. Don't recall the brand but could probably find it if you would like.

AEM's system supports MAF and MAP based systems. If you're unable to program the system MAF is better since it isn't as reliant on a table. MAP based systems rely on a lookup table for fueling whereas MAF actually measures the airflow. Measuring vs infering is better when you cannot reprogram the lookup tables. Just look at how easy the MAF Mustangs can be modified vs th eMAP based ones. However, if you're getting a system you CAN program the MAP is better IMO. It has less issues with intake piping - MAF sensors can have reversion problems and turbulance problems. I think a MAP with a small common plenum hooked to each TB would be the way to go. Just need something small enough to damp the pulses is all - I don't think it would have to be too big... 'Zat help at all?

Sparky, I think you're overengineering it a bit. Two nozzles feed a Supra Turbo fine with the proper pressureso I don't think you need 6 nozzles. I'm also pretty sure the NOS nozzles are a bit too rough - there are better nozzles out there I think. I know someone buildingselling a kit for $300 that would have everything you need except control device and tank. I'm considering it myself but don't yet "need" it. The programmable box you've talked about sounds good - can it pulse a solenoid like an injector by any chance? If so the spray would be proportional...

Tried one on my 383 - sourced it from an Impalla SS application. It never shimmed right and when it would catch to crank it labored. Bought a gear reduction starter from Jegs and it cranks like mad now! Bought one of their cheapies too! Didn't even have to shim the JEg's starter. Keep meaning to E-Bay my LT1 starter but haven't had the chance. Almost no miles on this sucker so if someone else wants to give it a whirl lemme' know.

IMO the twin OD is NOT an advantage in our cars. Often the RPM is so low in 6th at any reasonable speed that the engine hates you. I thought a double OD would be awesome however now having driven a car with 6speeds and a single Od I can tell you that if the ratious are right it flat out ROX!

It's a Honda OEM part but the controller is integral to the Honda ECU. If you want one "cheap" head to Techedge.com and pick up one of those with a display.

Take what you read in some of the Mustang mags with a grain of salt - trust me on this. Repeat this to your Dad - Exhaust, Intake (filter etc.), Lightning upper pulley. Have someone install those parts on the Cobra and you will pick up MAJOR power. For a little more power add a performance chip but it will likely void the warranty and you'd want to remove that Lightning pulley before any dealer visits too.

I can probably get real-life measurements on one if you'll send me a note offline. My friend's shop often has these motors lying around and I've measured them at least once and posted it here. Not sure where the numbers have gotten to but I can remeasure for you - no biggie. I think this would be a sweet swap IF it will fit, can maybe get measurements on the header flanges too.

Who makes it?

After the Rain-X dries buff it with a clean paper towel that's lightly damp. It will be crystal clear if you do it right. Anyone tried the PIAA silicone blades? I'm SERIOUSLY considering a set on my daily driver:coollook:

The Impalla SS had no engine driven fan - it had dual electric fans. I think the seller owes you an explanation! The SS doesn't have a great deal of power either - tamer cam and heads. Still hauled butt though The Opti thing is no big deal to retrofit I believe.

In fact there comes a point where the injector open time is GREATER than valve open time! The Supra is like this - I'm controlling injector phasing and in the upper loadRPM regions I have to fire on the closed valve and continue firing as it opens in order to get the fuel in there! Batch works just fine in cases like that IMO. Given a choice between batch, bank, and sequential I'd go sequential first, bank second, batch last. I think bank fire is a decent compromise (shrug).

Heh, 425 at the WHEELS maybe There is at least one nasty one local here - long tubes, full exhaust, intake, Lightning upper pulley, and now a bigger bottom pulley! It's had MANY drag launches on DRs and I think slicks - rear has held solid and I'm impressed by that. Can you say 11s easy?

Yes, you must have a shutoff switch connected to the HOT side directly off of the battery. I did it on th eground side and the ground at the alternator is enough to keep the car running when the switch is thrown I need to put a relay up front at the alternator I guess. IF you do the HOT side you won't have this problem if the alternator juice goes through the switch too. Downside to this, IMO, is that if your car is ever struck from behind in an accident that switch is VERY likely to ground to something - right on top of the danged fuel tank! The onlyplastic box "certified" BTW is the big blue Moroso unit and that only recently approved. Boat boxes don't cut it, the aluminum and zinc coated ones do. Zinc units aren't sealed though so Moroso or aluminum sealed is the right way to go on the Z IMO.

Talk to some of the Buick guys - and now the Supra guys. I know a guy who is running STOCK injectors on his Supra and a T-78 single turbo with some pretty scary boost - and NOT detonating. He's making power too, this is no crutch. He's spraying a combo of alky and water and the datalogs show GOOD things. He'll probably be selling this kit when he's done. A Guy local to me is running it too on stock Supra electronics - NO knock retard on pump gas and near race gas levels of boost. Frankly, I'm finding most of the results I've dug up pretty convincing! http://www.aempower.com/bbs/viewtopic.php?t=715 http://www.aempower.com/bbs/viewtopic.php?t=552 Funny this has come up - I'm looking into it BIGTIME. The problem you guys will run into is controlling the darned stuff. In my case I can run a solenoid like an injector with my AEM (Aquamist has a solenoid) but I'm not sure how you guys would best do this. The guy I know is actually ramping his injectors DOWN some when the spray comes on. Plugs come out sparkling clean too BTW Combusion chambers get steam cleaned as a side bonus. Some things I've learned - use a good nozzle - stainless if you run alky. Distilled water, put a filter in the system and a check valve too. Ford F150 framerail mounted fuel pump is supposed to make a good (compact) pump for this. It develops 95PSI. There's an Agri pump you can use too IF you don't run too much alky - it can ignite as the pump isn't rated for flammables. That one develops 65PSI but can be bumped up. The F150 pump is supposedly stainless inside, the Agri isn't. Oil burner companies make some decent nozzles but the Aquamist ones look goodbest to me. I ran across an adjustable Hobb's switch that might help you guys out but don't think I bookmarked it It was from an OEM app though. Anyway, I've got some info on this and the testimonies I've read seem to say that this stuff works. It may not make quite as much power as "race gas" but it also doesn't cost damned near $4 agallon either! I cannot afford to run race gas 24X7 but if 100% max power is what you want by all means that's probably the best way to do it...

Some folks are supposedly adapting the 2JZ intake onto the 7M I think. I bought a 2JZ intake CHEAP and when I got it noticed magic marker marks in a row - when I asked he told me he was working on this kind of project. Not knowing much about the 7M I don't know how hard this would be. NOT routing the darned intake over the top of the motor ala 2JZGE would sure be nice I'd bet! I bought this intake thinking about porting it but I swear there's almost nothing in it! A few rough edges here and there and an EGR pipe but the rest is pretty simple. If it might help you I can take some measurements and pics (shrug). I may still work this sucker some

IF I were doing the 2JZ swap I'd swap in the engine harness too just as if I were going to use the stock ECU - except then I'd slap in an AEM OEM harnesses can be expensive but they're pretty tough too. Custom wiring is nice and all but a PITA especially if you have to swap sensors around to run a particular ECU. Who wants to fab a trigger wheel when the stock crank sensor could be used just fine? It also looks like the RB may have variable timing control of somesort judging from the wart on the front of the timing cover - you'll want to be able to run that. I'm pretty sure, but not positive, that the new AEM can do this as it's been done on some other cars. Neither the RB or the 2JZ are "off the shelf swaps" and will require some fabbing. More people have done the RB than the 2JZ swap IMO. I'm trying to get some info on a 1JZ swap from OZ and have some LIMITED info up on my site now with more extensive stuff coming I HOPE. I'm mostly curious to know if the stock turbos would fit with it. If I had a spare 2JZ I'd try! As for parts for the RB - it's becoming a POP ULAR motor. The last couple of import rags I grabbed have ALL had info on the RB. Being on the West Coast I'd think that RB parts would be somewhat easier to get than it would be for me. You've also got some members here that might be able to ship you things from overseas. Motorex should certainly be able to get you parts if you need them. One thing that troubles me reading about the RB - nearly every shop that talks about making BIG power on an RB is diving into the internals FAR sooner than you have to on a 2JZ. I don't know at what point that's really needed but a 2JZ is one tough mother! Heh, and I'll admit it seems weird putting a 4banger in a Z but hey, it makes POWER so who cares! P.S. Some info on the next AEM software release, after this one I think TractionControl will be on their short list. Yes, that could be retrofitted to a Z if you mounted wheelspeed aka ABS sensor to the wheels (I'm told). Control will be via ignition. I hopeto beta test this next software release end of this week (Shh!)

WOT you're spraying on the backs of the intake valves anyway. Sequential is best for emissions and idle quality but for ultimate power there's little difference between batch and sequential. In your case - how will you time the injectors and do you really need as many as six?! That's a bunch of fuel unless those are tiny injectors - how will you control the other injectors?

Umm, NO. The PnP part of it simply means that it uses the stock harness and sensors. However ALL of the sensors have tables such that I can use pretty much any automotive sensor I want. For instance the stock MAP sensor could only sense up to 18psi, since I run about 21+ I've switched to a GM 3BAR MAP instead. Swap a few values and away I go The AEM "race" ECU will come with a harness and a bit of added cost as a result. It will have the EXACT same capabilities as the unit I have - same hardware with a harness. Since you were considering the 2JZ and they make a PnP unit just for that then if I were doing it I'd use the 2JZ harness too and this unit. IF you want to build a custom harness and possibly swap sensors around on the 2JZ then a different unit might be better. Remember the cam sensor setup though, not all EMS can handle that. Same thing may hold true of the RB series motors as well, pretty sure they don't have a distributor on them like an old SBC. Not sure what I'd run on an RB motor but I'd bet that getting the Delco unit working would be "interesting". Does that unit have sequential injection? Knock sensing? Be damned careful if not! AEM hasn't done a unit for the RB yet, dunno' when the race unit will be out either but when it is I'm sure someone will figure it out - some of the 240SX guys have been asking already. The only reason it's delayed is because the AEM techs haven't had time to fully document everything and don't want the grief of the support calls. You should see the stuff they get asked now as it is. RTFM? oh yeah right - easier to bug the AEM guys with stuff from the manual. Harness would be just for the injection, NOT the whole car.... My setup? 2JZGTE, stock turbos and internals, FMIC, exhaust, wastegate unplugged still Makes right around 390RWHP. Fuel system going in soon, will be datalogging the pressure when it goes in. Single turbo after that. Ignition is just Iridiums and an HK$ DLI to add dwell on the stock coils. I may try the LS1 coils but hate the idea of having plug wires again even if they are real short ones. The DLI seems to do the job except when I run about 17.5:1 A/F and 39 degrees advance during cruise Not sure the LS1 coils would do better. I'm considering alcohol/water injection while I'm at it too - can run it like a staged injector with it's own map. Just have to figure out how best to set this up - probably use an Aquamist solenoid, nozzle, and some sort of big pump...

The AEM for the 2JZ is like $1300. Goto aempower.com/BBS and ask around the Toyota section about the 1JZ. As for "going single" be aware that the 2JZ single kits will NOT fir the 1JZ. The exhaust flange is DIFFERENT. There's supposedly a single kit out there but it's JDM. Ya' might want to run the motor first, my turbos run fine but still leak a little bit of oil (shrug). Check with the MKIII Supra guys on I-Supra.com and Supraforums.com for info on this motor.

VERY nice 510! I SO like the 510 both coupe and wagon. One of these days I'd love to have one (sigh). Darn things are bigtime rare around here...

The new AEM does distributorless just fine. It has 5 coil outputs so wastefire is what's used most. LS1 coils work well it seems but I'm running the stock Supra coils right now with an HKS DLI to up dwell. Most folks wouldn't need the DLI but the Supra has a "smart" ignitor that must have it's dwell bumped externally. I may move to the LS1 coils - we'll see. I kind of like not having plug wires $1500 isn't bad, that was with wiring harness? Not bad at all! The new AEM system must have a laptop hooked to it for programming but you can build maps and upload them. The system has internal datalogging too but I usually use the laptop instead. Will the Wolf work with a W/B O2? If not I'd get an FJO with datalogging - a W/B makes tuning a snap!

Don't do the Motec! Have you seen the prices? Tech support is by the HOUR and costs an insane amount of money!You don't get all of th eoptions in the base model - you have to purchase passwords to unlock additional features. Last I heard their software was DOS based but I think that might have changed. If you want that much capability do the AEM and save SEVERAL thousand dollars! On that comparison chart with the Wolf 3 the AEM can answer YES to every single "no" and has more I/Os. The Wolf 4 is better but still has fewer I/Os. How much does the Wolf 4 cost? If it's under $1500 with sensors and wiring that's pretty good. If it's more like $2K I'd look more closely at the AEM. The AEM is more powerful but not all of that power might not be needed. My PnP model was only $1100 but the race model will include wiring and whatnot so it will cost more. Figure you'll want a W/B on top of that too for about $700 (FJO) or less (Techedge DIY). Supposedly by end of month the new AEM software will be out. Automap of wastegate and fuel plus antilag (forgot that earlier). Wish traction control would hurry up - I want that before Winter!

I don't bring it up because I've not spent much time researching it. It's been my experience that systems that can be programmed with a hand-held device generally don't have the same sorts of abilities as the full-on systems. Apex PFC, SDS, Crane Interceptor, and others just don't have the same capabilties. If you've got some good pages to check out concerning the system I'll look but it's not one that I've heard much about. (shrug) How old is the system? How does it datalog? Is the LCD programmer the only thing that can be used to program it?

A few specs on the new AEM unit: 10 injector drivers (not P/H but can be done with a resistor pack). Individual cylinder fueling - full sequential, staged, batch, etc.. 5 coil drivers - 10cyl capable with waste fire. Dual O2 inputs - W/B Dual knock sensors 4EGT inputs capable of modifying fuel curve Boost control N2O control VTEC capable or dual fuel map FULL datalogging of all I/Os including a TON of spare I/Os. I'm logging EGT, speed (MPH), Knock, spark, fuel (Automapped), A/F, air temp, and a bunch more. I will be logging Oil pressure and Fuel pressure soon. Probably do oil temp too while I'm at it along with air temp into and out of the turbo (doing after intercooler now). a friend and I may build a G-sensor too! Think Motec without the price tag. Datalogging speed is FAST and it has internal memory that loops so I get the last 20mins whenever I want it for a select number of items. They're working on traction control and will be releasing boost and fuel automapping this month (I'm a beta tester). Downside is this is a complicated unit and they don't have a universal unit YET. The reason for that is that it's not all documented yet - there's SO much to document You'll also have to have a laptop to really tune it,no handheld deal for this sucker. Kripes, the log software even has a math library in it! Anyway,you get the idea. Not everyone needs this much capability but WOW is it fun to play with. All of the spare inputs and outputs are terrific too. Fun stuff to play with for sure but not everyone's cup of tea....