BLKMGK

Better yet, let's see a dyno sheet since "around" 230HP could be just about anything since most people's butt dyno is pretty inaccurate. Turbos are usually mentioned because they make BIG power and once setup properly can make evenbigger power with little work...

I did as JTR suggested, works fine.

Damn, was just in the garage with a tape measure and forgot to measure ride height. Doh! I'll get to it. And no, 18s or bigger would look stupid. It's a sports car not a Conastoga Wagon!

Heh, then you haven't seen what the market is doing to retirement funds lately. I and others have been decimated. Even conservative funds are hurting. Why not find a nice 240Z and drive it "stock". You could get the suspension, interior, and running gear up to snuff while planning the V8 swap..

Worth noting - prices are coming down on these motors and parts for them. The shop I deal with quoted me a figure less than $4K for an entire motor. I was SHOCKED! Not sure of the source but they're apparently pretty happy to get them for owners who have blown their motors. The Race Pages has tons of parts and shops selling stuff for the mod motors. Way cool!

GN, GNX, Turbo TA - all motors mostly the same and both sides fed the turbo via a crossover.

This is easy - carb and don't go LT1 or LS1. Carbs at WOT are nearly as good as EFI - close enough that any arguable advantage is nullified by the added cost and complexity. Go carb, save a bunch, be happy

The Tremec trannies are underrated so far as torque capacity. Also remember that this is a light car. My T5 held up behind a 450HP twin turbo 302 with TONS of torque until I really beat on it one day. Driving style has a great deal to do with how well the trans holds up. It's not liek it shatters into a million pieces the moment you exceed it's "rating". P.S. Pete's break in procedure is good advice. I did something similiar on my T5. After less than 1K miles the fluid looked like it was filled with glitter!

Umm actually LPG is a decent fuel for performance apps if setup correctly. Clean burning and high octane. Perhaps you ought to do a little research on it?

I just spoke today to a guy I know locally running it in a Supra. Tuned it at the track this past Wednesday on a T-78. The kit is somewhat crude without a programmable EMS but it DOES work. His tank looks like a small BBQ tank. Not sure that's DOT but.... He's fiddling with water injection too He likes the Propane better so far but IMO with better control he'd like the water injection too. The water injection apparently has really steam cleaned his intake tract!

www.fjoinc.com - tell them you need a replacement sensor The guys I know buying the FJO setup are having no problems sourcing the sensor from FJO so far as I know. I actually need a couple of these sensors too actually

Only trouble I've had with my Tremec is that it's notchy. As for the durability, give Bob Hanlon a call at Hanlon Motorsports. He drives one in competition and rebuilt mine (I've met him, he's an honest decent guy IMO). Mine had been screwed up by a previous owner. The previous owner drove it in competition in a VERY fast blown Mustang on slicks powershifting sans clutch. In a car as light as the Z it ought to be pretty bulletproof IMO.

Try this -> http://www.geocities.com/clint78z/MISC/DATA1.bmp Geocities won't allow linking like that. Some of the BIGGEST beefs I had with my DFI was slow datalogging and no way to manipulate the data. Nothing like trying to graph O2 voltage that doesn't climb over 1volt against a 6KRPM engine rev! I got VERY frustrated doing this years ago It looks like you might have succeeded where I failed - terrific! Yellow is O2 voltage right? No way should system voltage go all over like that You might want to log TPS too - helps to be able to tell when you're WOT and when you're not. Battery voltage is another good one as is EGT, spark, and duty cycle on the injectors. Log as fast as it will allow, on my old DFI the data logs would show big jumps just because it logged too slowly. Grr! One of the biggest improvements that's occured in the programmable EFI world has been the datalogging and data manipulation portion. The software I'm using now actually has a math library and programmable functions If I datalog temps before and after the intercooler, for instance, I can write a function to output intercooler effeciency. I intend to datalog my fuel pressure and compare it with the pressure and vac my MAP sensor sees to see if pressure is dropping where it shouldn't or find other problems. Lots of possibilities! I understand now why some racers spend so much money on data acquisition, it's worth it's weight in gold IMo.

YUP! Check the SupraForums WEB site. The big dog Supra guys are doing this for added octane. It both cools and acts as a fuel, I'm pretty sure they're filling Nitrous bottles to supply it. I don't know if it's been used as a replacement fuel with Nitrous or not but it HAS been used under big boost. Apparently it works well but many express reservations about having a flammable gas cylinder in the car! I'm also not sure if they're using a siphon tube to inject liquid and letting expandcool in the manifold of if they're injecting it as a gas. As a gas it owuld have FAR lower cooling effect having already boiled in the bottle.. Anyway, go lurk over there and maybe try to find the MKIV mailing list archives for postings about it. Some guys swear by watermethanol injection instead and seem to think it's got advantages over propane. The debate rages on...

Pics, must see pics!!!!

Suggest you read these articles, some of them are VERY good IMO. http://www.autospeed.com/search.html?location=&scope=&words=water+spray It's not as simple as simply spraying the intercooler down, it's a heatsink not a radiator.

Doh, I bought a set of these and the driver's side came out great. Unfortunatly when the muffler shop went to fit the passenger side they claimed it hit! Their service is top notch though and I think the passenger side will work if I do it myself. I wouldn't have had to have the muffler shop involved except that when they welded my headers and sent them back they were angled and not straight down like my existing ones When working with Rewarder be VERY specific and don't assume. They're good people but you have to tell them what you want or they will assume.

I'm using one of the catch cans made of aluminum with the drain in the bottom. Rather than use that drain as a drain I hooked up my vent hose to the BOTTOM. This way when the radiator cools it won't suck air it'll suck the water back in. Air vents from the top where the hose would normally go...

Exhaust temp effects narrow band and wide band O2s alike. This is why the tmep on a wide band is regulated. Narrow band O2s just aren't worth it for tuning IMO. As for EGTs - too slow. By the time there's trouble showing on an EGT it's likely too late. I datalog my EGT and other sensors and from what I can see the EGT always lags behind. Still good to have for warning purposes though IMO. I will have several RTD EGT when I finally go single on my 2JZGTE. IMO a W/B is the way to go if you can swing the cost of entry.

Not sure which I ended up with, will take a look in the garage if I think of it tomorrow and maybe snap a pic... P.S. Didn't know that Home Depot carried welding cable - Cool!

22545 in front 24545 in the back if memory serves. I think I hadroom in front for slightly wider rubber even but I'm not sure. 205 is TINY! P.S. I'll try to measure height from road to framerail and post it

I've got 17s on my car. Honestly, I think 16s would be a smarter choice. Herrassy? Well, 17s with a decent series rubber on them RAISE the car up even if you lower it with the tires up in the wheelwell. IMO the car looks a little odd. I can shoot some shots of my car and give you the height if that would help. If your brakes will fit inside 16s consider them. I had 15s on my car previously and it looked REAL low now it just sits a bit higher - I suppose I could've used 35 series rubber but....

SpeedPro could mod it for what you want I'm sure. If it's a good price that's a decent box IMO. Just make sure you research what options you want. The SpeedPro box has some limitations - you lose idle control if you go full sequential for instance. Pretty sure about that anyway so check it out if that's a concern. SpeedPro can best answer your questions. Their techs hangout on one of the GN boards - Scottie probably knows which one. Get the W/B option if you can afford it.

Umm fired and it seems that folks may be sending this info to ALL of the local dealerships in that area. This punk is going to be flipping burgers I'd wager.

Yup, WAY over the top and VERY well done. That's what I'd call a Hobby Car Small enough to really take apart and build the way you want it - like a Z actually. I happen to really like the 914 and the little Lotus - not sure what model that was but I like it too. I've seen a souped up 914 here locally awhile ago, light as a feather, big brakes, fast Porsche motor. To drool for A V8 would be just nasty! Have you considereda turbo rather than the Whipples?