BLKMGK

LOL, thought those were L6 too - doh! Talk about a plumbing nightmare - ick!

Umm, previous Zs being single has nothing to do with making the later ones single. Early ones were like the Supra - straight six. Doing a single on a V6 is a bit harder. The GNs did it but take a peek at the plumbing involved....

Actually, if you read the papers we're NOT all using the same monetary system. These guys had a network setup that wasn't like what we think of as banks to send money around. Now, many were shutdown and we seized a ton of assests but I also believe that it's been reported that much of the assets that HAD been in banks were pulled and converted into gold and other things in the months before the attack. We hurt them for sure but they weren't comepletely stupid about this. Dunno' how this case will play out but if nothing it will highlight who's been playing a part in this if they can produce the evidence...

I know someone putting something that big on a Mustang. Yes, it WILL fly when he's done

Well, I guess there had to be a reason for his selling it huh? Stoich at WOT?! Hell no! More like 11:1-12:1. 14.7:1 at WOT and 20+lbs of boost would detonate like made and eat parts. Rich is what you want and 11.5:1 is supposedly safe but I'll likely shoot a little leaner like 12:1. As for the FJO being slow I find that very hard to believe. My datalogs are on the order of 50 samples a second - stepping through the logs I see an A/F change the MOMENT I let off the gas for a shift! Goto www.blkmgk.com/aem.nsf and DL the AEM logs then goto www/aempower.com/bbs and DL the AEM software. Pull those logs up in the datalog viewer and you'll see what I mean. If someone really wants me to I can try to take a screenshot and put it online but the logger is a MUCH better way to view them. I can also see this while driving down the road - the slightest change in throttle position immedietly changes the A/F in the display. It appears to be amazingly sensitive to change. 1/3rd of a second is a lifetime in engine time. If this sensor were that slow I'd expect that it wouldn't be anywhere near this quick to change on the display. Note that Horiba uses the SAME sensor in their box but that Motec supposedly uses a narrower band sensor in theirs according to one of the techs on the AEM board. NTK, makers of this sensor, also make a driver box for it but no display and will only sell their driver box if you swear it's for engine control and NOT for engine monitoring - they have a deal with Horiba... P.S. Pete - Holley makes a programmable ignition ya' know. You could use that to get ignition tuned if you wanted

Collecting? How about by confiscating property and assets in the United States and elsewhere if other Govt. will comply? We've already frozen a TON of stuff, I see no reason why we might not freeze more...

As I said, this isn't actually Z specific. This is for my Supra Someone has mentioned that shimming the wastegate will allow it to hold closed longer. Apparently the wastegate on the Supra, even with the hose pulled, won't hold boost because the darned flapper blows upen! Not too cool Mind you it still runs like 1.5BAR but I'd like a little more spring pressure so I can hook the wastegate hose back up and actually get some use out of the silly thing. Mind you it's only got the one wastegate for both turbos so it's really a funky setup P.S. Oh cool - the guy posted how he did it!

A question not directly related to a Z but I've heard th eterm "shim the wastegate" more than once and I'd like to know exactly what that entails. In my particular case the wastegate isn't strong enough to hold closed at full RPM and shimming it is supposed to help this. How ya' do dat'?

Not that simple - the later Zs are a V type motor and to go "single" requires a great deal more plumbing than it does on the Supra which is a straight six with all of the exhaust ports on one side.... Some have done singles on the ZTT but not many it would seem.

What WEB site?

Eh,well worse comes to worse I call Denny's again - great service and they were easy to work with. I can always sell off my existing shaft - it's rock solid - so to speak

Other than the MAF (I think), what other sensors differ fromthe motor you have and the later ones? If there are few differences or no differences then I see no reason why it wouldn't work.

555Rs rock! I had them on the Supra and even drove it in the snow with them! In the rain they actually have pretty awesome damned traction, I had no complaints. I'd still urge caution in the rain but they were VERY streetable. My car hooked dead on them, almost too well actually. Go Nitto!

The older DFI like I've got couldn't run a W/B - that came out later. However I'm NOT sure it could run that sensor WOT. My unit showed O2 but only centered around 14.7:1 Stoich. As for simply sourcing the NTK sensor - no can do. Without a sophisticated heater controller and signal conditioner it will quickly burn up. The AEM Race unit is NOT out. I'm also aware of the AEM update for the Supra and have performed the mod. You might want to check out http://www.aempower.com/bbs as you'll find a great deal more info there than on their WEB site

Cable shifter right? I used duct tape to seal the area around my shifter hole on my stick shift. IF this is a cable shifter then you ought to be able to tape up everything around the cables and seal it up good.

I've snapped two Spicers so far - they're hollow There's a company making solid ones, the name escapes me, but Pep Boys sells them and they're solid. Snapped one of those too but at least it was solid. Toyota 4X4s use them too I think.

W/B WOT? Sure! AEM does and they will be releasing a fuel map "Automap" end of the month. Their system is THE most flexible I've seen so far. No race system released yet, just PnP boxes but they'll release one eventually with a wiring harness - this is what will probably go on my car No senselearning two software packages IMO,one of their PnPs is on my Supra. I THINK DFI GENVII does it but am not sure - that's a pricey upgrade on their box though. Holley has a W/B option now too but I'm not sure it does anything more than log. Electromotive TECIII may,again I'm not sure. FAST does I think but as much as I like their software I've seen some things in their box I do NOT like - they don't have enough I/Os.

Have a driveshaft for the R200, how different is the R230?

Can you tell us more about the battery you're using? It looks like a unique shape but without being able to expand any of the small pics I cannot tell More detail on that puppy please as it might be applicable to several projects. How much does it weigh, must it be vented, etc. etc. All in all a SWEET swap! No one suspects much of the older RX7. An FD3 is sexier IMO but way more expensive. How does the older RX7 handle? You didn't get to drive it with the rotary,do you think handling changed much? Steering effected with the moved rack? Coool project! Read through the grief with the 4.1 motor, bummer! Hate crap like that

Looks like Jaycar sells one too. Their display is what's shipped with the DIY W/B kits I think... http://www.supraforums.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=62772 Hrm, a kit that can be plugged in that easily to a lighter would be cool for quickie tuning.

Schwing! Keep us posted, bigtime interested. Still need to get my darned ZXT CVs in but if this works out well enough quickly enough I could be convinced to skip this. Will we need to change the driveshaft too? Please say no

Car running check the voltage at the battery or alternator and then at the headlight bulb. I'll bet that you see SEVERAL volts difference between the two. IF you upgrade the bulbs to higher wattage units and don't upgrade your wiring with relays you WILL overheat your switch eventually and possibly fry your wiring. This is what happens when added laod is placed on wiring that has high resistance. I wrote an article on doing this work using a Painless Wiring harness awhile back but it can also be done with your ownwire and some Hella relays - use quality relays!!! In short - you want your bulbs to get voltage right from the battery via a relay triggered by the stock wiring. It's not super hard to do but the difference in thelighting has to be seen to be believed! I picked up somehting like 4-5volts at my bulbs doing this with Hella sealed beams, what a difference!

The Honda sensors are calibrated at the factory and have a calibration resistor in the harness. They can be gotten for as little as $130 online. It's an NTK sensor. Dunno' which unit I'd get to be honest. I like my FJO and got a decent deal on it with display but no datalogging which is something you guys want. Dunno' what that would cost. Mine was less than $675 with sensor and bung but that was a steal. The DIY kits are getting datalogging but I don't know how good the software will be for it For a carb'ed V8 I'm not sure just how much tuning you could do with a W/B since I believe the carb's adjustments are far more coarse than with EFI. If you're going EFI in the future though the W/B is damned near a must for tuning!

Found another source of W/B units that are reasonably cheap for you guys: http://interstice.com/~garfield/ Some possible info of interest: http://www.aempower.com/bbs/posting.php?mode=quote&p=3512

Couple of things... 2JZGTE are a bit expensive, 1JZGTE from a JDM clip might be worth looking at - it's 2.5liters and revs higher with parallel turbos instead of sequential. JDM 2JZGTE have smaller injectors and ceramic turbines, not as good. 2JZGTE parts are readily available here, don't think many parts for the 2JZ swap to the 1JZ, I know the exhaust manifold won't. I've seen pics of the 2JZGTE in a Z, it looked like the single turbo manifold was a little cobbled, not sure one of the Supra kits would fit. I could measure my engine bay if that would help. I've actually got some pics of a 2JZGTE in a Z and I HAD pics of a 1JZ in a Z till my dog ate the CD 1JZ and 2JZ are the same physical size I'm told. There are SOME pics of a 1JZ Z swap on my site now from a mag article. I've got my fingers crossed that I can get the other pics sent to me again Be sure to investigate the powerband of the 2JZ. It's a beast up top but launches a little soft unless you slip the clutch or use an automatic. That might save some rear parts. 6Speed Getrags are BUX and few people work on them. On the upside that's a bulletproof tranny so long as you use TOYOTA trans fluid (trust me, use it). That's a close ratio 6speed BTW, 5th isn't an overdrive. The 1JZ has a 5speed attached and will fit the 2JZ I think, there's both a 1JZclip w/trans AND a 1JZ trans seperate in the Supra section of ThePartsTrader.com Okay, that's all I think I know. Oh wait, if you use the Supra harness the AEM ECU will bolt right in and give you full control. I'm using it now Dunno' anything about the RB26DET but I'd like to learn more...