BLKMGK

I started with a stock GM LT1 starter, it ground. I tried shims, I tried taking it to a really good mechanic, no dice. I switched to a nice mini-starter from Jegs, starts twice as fast and hasn't ground since.

Look for the posts I put up concering the install of relays for the headlights. Seriously, forget trying to fix the stock wiring, install relays. I did and my lights got about twice as bright! You're probably losing several volts from your battery to the lights now - ALL of the juice goes through the harness, fusebox, and the switch. the switch in particular cannot take the amperage, mine was brand new and SMOKED. A set of relays will take all of the load off of the switch. I don't know how different your car's wiring is than mine but my switch switched GROUND not hot which was weird I thought. Dunno' about the wipers man

http://www.myaudittsucks.com/ Geez, First M3s then TTs? This isn't as bad as the M3s anyway

He's not offering $90 - he's offering to pay half of what a $105 new one would cost Talking this over with the woman I showed her the "good" pump. I thought that nipple on there was a little fragile - nope it's not. I'm thinking it HAD to have been broken while it was packed dammit. Maybe it was cracked and he didn't notice but regardless I sure as hell didn't try to rip him off and yes I'm pretty angry about this I'm as honest as they come and pretty trusting, it really makes me angry when I get screwed and this sure feels like it...

Just an FYI - I've got a remote mount filter on my SBC. I suspect that it's hoses are restricting oil flow and ran across a site that has adapter blocks and filter mounts with -12 fittings! It's all billet stuff too so that damned leakage I'm suffering with my cast filter mount shouldn't occur. Can you say upgrade candidate? http://www.cmfilters.com/remote.cfm Much better than the Jeg'sSummit stuff IMO!

Ya', I used PayPal and a CC too although after 30days you're supposedly SOL with PayPal. I'm going to wait and see what he says next. I expect some payment back dammit but I will likely warn others about this. If I goto PayPal and bitch they will likely lock his account, they do this fairly often apparently. I don't wish to screw him out of a pile of money, especially if he uses PayPal often, but I am NOT happy right now. And NO, I did NOT damage the pump unwrapping it. Kripes, I still cannot figure out why he shipped it with the hose attached! Talk about asking for damage All I did was unroll it from the tissue into my hand and watch as the hose dropped on the table. At first I thought the hose on the second one had been shipped loose. (sigh)

More RB26DETT info http://www.exvitermini.com/pr33.htm

Okay, I'm working an Internet sale that's looking like it's about to go bad. Question is - is this an honest screw up that I'm stuck in or is this guy trying to screw me? What's the best way to solve this? Here's the deal - need FUEL for the Supra. Walbro GS341 pumps can be gotten through a friend's shop for about $110 apiece but he doesn't stock them and his minimum order is 10. This guy posts that he's got 2 of them for $180. Terrific, I figure this is perfect for me and I agree to purchase them. I shoot him the money, box is shipped. Box shows up in great shape. I open it and find tissue paper packing and the pumps wrapped in it like douches. I unroll the first one no problem. I note that he's shipped it with the long rubber hose pigtail attached to it, thinks that's stupid, but it got here fine. Unwrap second pump and the hose drops out in my hand - plastic nipple it attaches to snapped off! Shoot him E-mail and wait a day for him to respond. He's upset at the Post Office and wants me to take pics of the pump and box - I do so that night. He talks to the Post Office - box is uninsured but they can still cover $100 per shipped box. They apparently look at the pics and deny the claim. Duh, thinks me since the box was fine. He says he thinks Walbro can repair it and offers to have this taken care of if I'll ship him the pump. Cool, I ship it on my nickel in the SAME box and tissue paper. I wait days. I always wait at least a day when I send him E-mail. When I send him E-mails asking what's taking so long he tells me all about his long hours and that he's working on it. Finally he gets back and tells me that since the construction of this pump is a plastic end pressed onto the casing it cannot be repaired. He tells me he's found a place that will sell a pump for $110 and that he'll split the cost with me. Umm, that's $180 for a single $110 pump + $55 - I could've done better going through my friend. I tell him this and suggest he simply send me the $90 for the broken pump. His response to me today is that he paid $145 per pump. That's he's already lost a bunch of money on this and that it's all a PITA. He tells me that when he spoke to the Postal guys they asked him how well he knew the buyer - implying that I'M ripping HIM off - now I'm pissed! He calims he's not accusing me of anything (ya' right) but that he's been selling parts for 5 years and been burned a few times (he shipped without insurance?!). He says he doesn't want to be out $200 and understand that I don't wish to be out of pocket any further $ either. At this point I'm pissed. I've fired him off a pretty nast e-mail letting him know I don't appreciate his implying that I'm ripping him off. I've asked him to consider how I as a buyer felt opening a package and having an item drop out of it broken. We'll see what his response is but I can already tell he's going to stiff me one way or another here. I'm WAY tempted to just take whatever he'll give me and warn others about how this has gone. I've bought THOUSANDS of dollars worth of stuff over the 'net and never been ripped off. I've had things show up late, ship slowly, and sometimes show up in slightly worse condition than I'd been told but never have I felt so powerless. Hell, I found and purchased my Supra through the 'net and found my RX7 that way too with no problems! Am I overreacting here? Until he tried to imply that I was ripping him off I was willing to believe that he was on the up and up. But the box DID show up undamaged but the part was most certainly trashed. Had I been the Post Office I'd have laughed at him too What's the best way to solve this?

Lemme' know if you guys are serious about measuring the Supra lights. Many older 93-96 Supra owners upgrade to th elater style 97-98 lites so the older ones can be found for sale somewhat often. Same with the headlights - THAT would be a cool swap too! IMO the Supra lites are way nice but they're showing up on all sorts of whacky things like mini-trucks! Hrm! -> http://www.supraforums.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=58325

Check out this guy's ride! Pointed out to me while having a discussion on SupraForums concerning cost effectiveness of doing a Supra vs a ZX TT. http://www.z32.com/readerrides/reader56.htm I was pointing out how much more expensive a TT is to modify vs a Supra since you've got to buy two of everything and have to dive into the engine sooner. Pretty neat!

I'd use the stock line as a return and a -6 braided or vulcanized line for a feed. Make sure your pump can handle the 40+PSI you'll need. Even though you won't be able to make that 500HP I think you'll still be burning the same gas, I'm NOT sure. Hrm, and if you've nto already got a regualtor look aroound on thepartstrader.com and sites like SupraForums - there's usually at least one Aeromotive or Paxton regulator out there for sale. Oh yeah, the Mustang sites are GREAT for finding injectors, regulators, and pumps. Don't buy one of th ereally big Paxton or Aeromotive pumps if you can help it though - REALLY loud!

For you RB fans http://www.unstable-hybrids.com/ and http://www.srswap.com/ Found on SupraForums

If you want to really do it right - see if there are any powdercoating places nearby. The shop near me does good work for reasonable prices and some of the coatings are VERY chip resistant! If the objects aren't too big it might not be too costly if you can find someplace local to you... Hrm, Eastwood also has a nice powdercoating setup but don't heat it in your home oven...

Heh, and not for th efirst time do I regret tossing that old oven instead of keeping it For ceramic and powder coating it would've been perfect. Maybe once the garage gets "improved" I can find an old clunker to use...

I used a standard Jegs aluminum can. It's not meant to recirculate however I hooked my hose where the pitcock would normally be so that as the radiator cools and gets a suction it will pull coolant not air. Dunno' that it's actually working that way but it seemed to make sense to me

Umm, we went over this in the EFI forum I think. 'For a carb one of those O2 meters might give you some VERY rough idea as to what's going on but don't expect very much at all form them. Narrow band O2 sensors are most sensitive at 14.7:1 Stoich A/F. On either side of that they can say rich or lean like a lightswitch but not much better than that. W/B O2 sensors exist - they rock - but they cost a decent amount. the EFI thread covered this well already...

I'll look at it but I'm pretty sure everything is level and kosher under there. I had all sorts of fun putting it in mind you so it's possible something is ass backwards. REALLY need to get those CVs on and drive the car dang it. It's not seen hardly any road time this summer and the gear oil leaking out hasn't helped. IF I can sell the RX7 this weekend I'll have more time and energy for it and will be planning my garage upgrade too

How well the HondaNTK sensor holds up to lead has been of some debate. Some people claim that if it's "broken in" on unleaded that it lasts pretty good with leaded gas by some who've done it. TECIII can use a W/B. Dunno' about the others. I've looked briefly at the datalogging stuff from FJO but haven't needed it. Sounds like it's really working for you though, cool! Glad I'm not the only FJO advocate here Just wish it were cheaper dang it! Actually, I'd like to know more about the TECIII if anyone knows anything about it. It had so much lead up hype and so many delays I stopped paying attention to it. Electromotive is just up the street from me BTW and I'm told they've lost some of their best engineers so be careful Just curious, what does an SDS or Wolf ECU run? The AEM race unit isn't out yet but the PnP units are $1200. The race unit will be a bit more but seriously look at the features before you write it off as being too expensive. Can you say baby Motec? Also, look at the Greddy E-Manage. It's made to piggyback on OEM ECUs and could perhaps be good for a ZXT ECU? GN ECU maybe?

Heh, I've been looking at some of the articles on engine swaps into the 240SXs. Some of them I've seen on the road have been pretty sweet looking too. I know it's not a 240Z but it's RWD and some of the sport versions look pretty sweet. Unfortunatly emissions concerns make even considering this pretty much a no-go and that sux IMO. Just out of curiousity, are these motors any more or less an option than the 1JZ and 2JZ other than maybe price? Just have to admit to beaing REALLY intrigued by a JZ swap. These others also intrigue me but I know less about the motors and I know the 2JZ has a SWEET Getrag 6speed Where can I learn more about the SR20 and the other motors discussed here?

Buy and hold - great philosophy I bought into when an analyst was "churning" my account. Beig in the "tech sector" myself I went tech heavy My 110K+ account now stands at about 25K. Think it'll come back? Go lookup Winstar, Worldcom, Rambus (knew that was a risk), Microsoft (10K of my own funds - bought at $99 - do the math), and a few others like Corning and AMD are kicking my butt. Several of those will NOT be coming back and I have lost everything I invested in them. Buy and hold only works if the companies stay in business and don't cook their books. As an investor I'm PISSED at the likes of Worldcom (who at least turned themselves in), Xerox, Arthur Anderson, and a few choice others. Luckily in the midst of this I changed companies 3 years ago. The money from the previous 10+ years (I always max 401K BTW) may be toast but the new company has an excellent setup and I've made up a big part of my losses. I'd be doing much better if I hadn't lost the other money and I still hope some of it comes back as I ride that ship straight downwards. My broker says nothing liek this has been seen since the first crash. The difference now, as I see it, is we've had a culture that has pushed CEOs and others to cook books in order to make bonuses etc. and they have truly hosed the investors. This is FAR different than investors overextending themselves in a buying spree, this time we've got books we cannot trust when making our investment decisions. Oh, while we're at it let's talk about professional brokers who push stocks that they privately call "dogs". So IMO we're in deep doo doo and investor trust is spiraling downwards - I know I will be hesitant to dump anything more of my after tax money into the market. P.S. Anyone catch the Washington Post the other day? Our Prez is coming down on low interest company loans to company officials and pushing legislation to stop it. The problem? Seems companies HE RAN in the past did the same thing. Gee, which side of his mouth is he talking out of with such indignation?

Hrm, I've broken 2 Spicer HD units and at least one "stock" U-Joint. NONE of these were broken doing burnouts or anything nasty, just getting on it occasionally and normal driving - no kidding. I've YET to do a burnout in my car and am afraid to for fear of trashing ANOTHER U-Joint. The most I've gotten on a single U-joint so far is maybe 50 miles, less than 100 for sure. My suspension geometry is fine near as I can tell, the danged things just don't seem to be able to take any power on my car I have a set of CVs and adapters ready to go in once I get off my LAZY butt and do it. GO CV. No reason to change pumpkin either but you will have to have the adapters from Ross...

I use an FJO unit - cost complete with display was $660 and that was a DEAL. The DIY kits I wouldn't touch except assembled unless you really want to delve into electronics. I turned my kits, both of them, over to a friend who's an electronics wiz - he's still not finished them Seems the instructions were less than wonderful, the PCB silkscreen has errors on it, and in the end you still have to make a box with a good heatsink as the power transistor on this sucker heats up pretty good I'm told. Also, I bought some of what were apparently early units and they required 13+ volts to even turn on and heat up the O2 sensor. Hell, my Supra doesn't get much over 13volts normally when any accessories are running, this sucker wouldn't work well for me The new kits supposedly use a different voltage regulator... In the end I went FJO just to get a buletproof weatherproof assembled unit. Since it's protecting an expensive engine and I was getting dealer cost I felt it was worth it. HalMeter, Greddy A/F guage, junk from Jegs, Autometer "A/F" guage... junk! ALL of those read a normal OEM narrowband sensor. Why narrowband? Because it's most sensitive in the Stoich range - 14.7:1. On either side of that, rich or lean, it's ability to accurately read fuel mixture falls off a cliff! Goto the FJO WEB site and look at their sensor's response - it's MUCH better. Infact the sensor they use is the SAME NTK sensor that DynoJet and Motec use (shh!). That sensor is also used in LEV Hondas which is why it's price has dropped so much - it's now "only" $180 from FJO or $120 online from a place the DIY guys reccomend. In short - there's NO comparison, this sensor is as accurate as anything you'll find. The reason why the FJO and other controllers cost so much is because this isn't a "normal" O2 sensor - in order to be used it's heater circuit must be strictly controlled. The output must also be conditioned and amplified. Those two requirements drive costs up which is why the DIY guys built their setup and even at their cost it's a few bux. Sure wish FJO hadn't potted their box If I had a few bux I'd remove that potting and try to duplicate their unit but.... 'Zat help explain the differences in the various units? NTK makes a heater control box too BTW but I don't know if a display is available - the DIY display could be made to work. The display is really cool - realtime on the fly A/F info that will save your butt on a hard pull if you start to go lean. Worth it in my book and having an ECU that can use that information REALLY makes it worthwhile. Can the SDS use a W/B? I know that Holley, FAST, DFI, Motec, and HalTec can but I'm not sure who else. They charge a bunch for their "W/B upgrades" too. Close to $1K in some cases and it's the SAME NTK sensor with a heater box Lemme' know if you guys have any more questions. Sort of become a hot button topic for me

Sweet! I'll host those too if you guys would like, I'm DYING to read this front to back

Umm, they wrote the book so that certainly is a good place to look. However Jegs sells some of their stuff and probably Amazon. Why not try searching in Google or maybe visiting those sites?

NAPA sells the really nice T-bolt clamps supposedly. The Supra guys rave over them but I've yet to switch. Blown a few pipes off myself and if I weren't MAP I'd have been getting a tow home at least once already