BLKMGK

Ummm Griffin. Cobra 4.6 electric fan. Cools incredibly well. (shrug) What's wrong with the Griffin?

Forget the speedo gear stuff, use the Autometer 5inch in-dash speedo and tach. Buy the electronic one and put a sender in the trans - problem solved.

As a matter of fact... years ago I bought a Mustang electric fuel pressure gauge from BBK. It came in a VDO box and uppon closer examination and a cross refrence of the sender unit I discivered I had a relabeled Oil Pressure gauge and had paid about twice what it was worth Yeah, it can be done! However I'd check it every so often just to be sure nothing funky was going on with the sender. I never had any problems with my car but the limited sweep of the gauge sucked (shrug).

That's got to be more than 1200HP. Hell, I'd be happy with just ONE of those T66s

I'm not sure anything could be easier than the swap into th eolder zs. I seem to recall someone working on this swap awhile back and having issues with power steering and other things. I'm pretty sure it'll by harder than an older Z

These guys supposedly sell the rubber hose for interconnects by the inch http://dnaparts.com/ but I've not yet bought from them. NAPA sells T-bolt clamps BTW. For raw materials like aluminum tubing check out Aircraft Spruce And Supply. At the very least order one of their HUGE FREE catalogs

FD3s started in 93 so it will probably be just before that. Most all of the rotaries will have at least one oil cooler, FD3 R models will have two of them but I dunno' how big they are. Chances are slim of finding one of them in the junk yard anyway

For the WEB you don't need a high rez camera unless you're goignto be blowing up the pics pretty big. A $50 camera wouldn't take super pics but it will take pics good enough to get an idea across. If that's all you want it for then that's not a bad deal IMO. I started with one like that a few years ago and now have a much better one I bought used off of E-Bay (shrug). Once you get used to it you'll know what you want in your next one

On my Mustang I used to see sky high temps idling at a light and then see the IAT temp drop down to within 10degrees of ambient once I got moving On th eSupra I'm also seeing temps VERY near ambient but th eprobe is in the intercooler ooutlet. What's been said about heat soak is VERY true! However, the IAT temp sensor isn't used to make big adjustments, mostly just fine tuning for when temps are different than when the base map was done. One Supra guy whodid put his IAT in the manifold is going to move it - heat soak is making his temps WAY high. My current intercooler is a GIANT 4core Greddy and while I've not been boosting very much (not tuned yet) the temps are VERY flat while driving. An entire 45min drive home will start out with temps at about 36 degrees before cranking, 32 degrees idling after cranking, and then has dropped as low as 28 while driving part throttle. This is very close to ambient lately. Remember, an intercooler acts more like a heatsink than a radiator. It absorbs heat and radiates it over time - it doesn't constantly remove all of the heat. You have to be really flying before you can overcome heatsoak! Bigger and better the intercooler is the longer it'll be before temps begin to climb on a long pull. Read this series - it's pretty interesting! http://www.autospeed.com/A_0527/page1.html P.S. The ECU I'm using will allow me to log air coming in the intake, out of th eturbo, and of course out of the intercooler. I intend to FULLY instrument this sucker!

That occured in Maryland not all that far from me. I recall seeing the pic in the newspaper - it was indeed damned funny!

Watched it last night actually. did you know that EVERY Supra came with twin turbos?! Some of the stuff was interesting, the breakdancers were kind of nutz and fun to watch, but some of the cars? Gack! 4door Neon? Some of the drag racing was interesting and interviews with the racers was informative. Most of these guys started out street racing and have become pros, liked hearing their perspective. Overall when it came to the show the women had no clue and were WAY too perky. The blond in particular drove me up a wall, show me the Asian cutie please

Eh, I have the "SubtleZ" hood on my car. Mild rise to let the heat out and later Z style vents. Works great and looks just fine with the stock lines. This is NOT some tall skyscraper like some of the Mustang dorks run. Subtle is exactly what it is... Personally, for a part that's probably going to be painted I'm not sure I'd do CF. Maybe paint it and leave the raised section unpainted to show off the CF? I dunno' (shrug). I saved maybe a few lbs with my 'glass hood but the stock one really doesn't weight THAT much. Unless you're going to deviate from the stock look in some way there's not a really good reason so get rid of the stock one IMO.

Centreville VA?! Dude, you're right up the street from me! I've got Outlaw brakes on my car. I ordered custom braided lines from Mike along with my brakes. They weren't all that expensive and bolted right up. Gimme' a shout sometime and we can hook up! More than happy to show you anything I can on the car or try to help you out. Pics of my car on my WEB site. Welcome!

Um, I disagree here. It's a spray of liquid droplets. It does convert but not with nearly as much energy transfer to the air. The MPG increase is from more exact and flexible metering. A carb isn't likely to be able to run 16:1 one moment and 11:1 the next. Okay, emissions cars stick to 14.7:1 but you get the idea. Okay, this is closer to my understanding. INCREASES heat? Someone said that? Umm no, it certainly DECREASES heat as you've said. First I've heard of this and I'd love to see some proof from a manufacturer. An intercooled forced induction application is going to have air entering the intake at near ambient temps. The fuel distribution issues with a draw through far outweigh any vaporization advantages IMO. EFI is more flexible I think. I know some are successful doing this but I have to wonder if driveability is a PITA. Heh, what's the discharge temp on a turbo? Figure something over 125degrees? 200 maybe? On a hot day a decent intercooler gets you back to ambient with less distribution issues. FWIW I intend to instrument both sides of my intercooler and datalog it to checkout it's effeciency. This monster ought to be awesome Umm, draw through vs intercooled or no intercooler? Personally I'll give up a little power to gain the driveability of EFI. I'd love to see some docs on intake temps on a draw through application. If it's below ambient I'll be surprised.

Been awhile since I researched the FAST but... Can it run 10 injectors, 5 coils, 2knock sensors (with each dedicated to specific cylinders), dual O2s (specificly dedicated), and switch from sequential to batch or bank without a trip to the manufacturer? Staged injectors out of the box? While running sequential can it run an idle motor? Can it run an electronic transmission? Monitor 4EGTs? Run a boost solenoid - closed loop? Datalog internally (512K on AEM)? Switch between two boost maps from an external I/O? Allow the user to specify sensor specs and scaling? AEM expects to have traction control in the future and Automodification of it's fuel map too. Anyway, you get the idea. Yes AEM's box does all of that and more, it's a cheap MOTEC! AEM's biggest need right now is docs! When I priced the FAST with the options I wanted I remember it being higher than $1800, if that's the price for a full on sequential system with W/B that's not bad! FAST software is nice too, it's a little more polished than the software AEM licensed and modified (GEMS I think). The math library in the log analyzer application is powerful. DFI's looks good but I've found no user support community for it like I have for AEM, FAST, and Holley's system. Probably a better discussion for the EFI forum (shrug). Gas cooling - yeah it's better for the carb or TBI systems. This has been documented but the superior metering of the EFI overcomes those advantages. Just the fact that you can make an intake without worrying about droplets dropping out of suspension makes EFI more attractive. Carbs have their place and they can make power. All depends on what's most important to you, EFI can meet and beat carb power but it costs. For WOT concerns only carbs make more sense IMO.

P.S. Is th enew Holley Stealth Ram too tall to fit under our hoods? I was considering that over my converted carb intake but if it's too tall... I do NOT want that super expensive mini-ram! Too much money when you add up the fuel rails and all

Geez, I should've read in here earlier A few comments... First, I love EFI - programmable EFI in particular That said: Carbs beat EFI in a couple of ways. 1) Cost for WOT $. In other words if you only care about WOT max power the carb setup will likely be cheaper. Note I didn't say that it would make more power 2) Carbs are easier to tune than EFI. Throw a few jets in there, twak a few things - that metered fuel leak will get you in the ballpark. For WOT it's likely even easier. So, why do I prefer EFI? Well, a direct back to back carb vs EFI test will prove that the EFI makes more or equal WOT power and provides greater torque properly tuned. A Holly engineer who posts on another board, Grumpy knows him, did this test back to back on the SAME manifold and what I said above is what he found. 99.9% of these STUPID magainze tests use long runner torquey EFI manifolds against short runner single plane carb intakes - duh! Oh, the thing about fuel evaping in the intake to cool the charge is TRUE. The heat goes into the process of turning the fuel into a near gaseops state - same way NOS drops temps when it goes form liquid to gas. However with EFI spraying on the backs of the intake valves you do still get SOME of that effect. Go TBI if you really care about this but wall wetting will take away a good bit of this effect - carbs don't have a really big advantage here. Driveability - EFI stomps a carb. Sorry guys, properly tuned an EFI motor will crank up and run at O'dark thirty in the morning! It will have consistant A/F mixture across the RPM band and won't blubber and choke changing altitudes. Fuel mileage - carbs LOSE bigtime here. The A/F curve on my car onthe dyno was pretty interesting - lot's of dips and curves. Granted, the carb isn't tuned right but even if it were there would still be dips and curves as the various metering circuits and jets did their thing. My car currently has a carb on it simply because it was easiest to setup and run the bugs out of the system that way. I'll be putting on a Stealth Ram or converted Victor Jr. later on. You've got a spiffy carbed intake that flows like mad? Cheap as dirt? Great! Convert it to EFI and reap the rewards. Don't need to worry about single or dual planes either, EFI doesn't care. As for tuning EFI. I'm doing this now with an AEM system in my Supra and I've done it with an older DFI (ick). The newer systems ROCK! FAST is nice but somewhat limited IMO, DFI GENVII is better but support sux (last I looked) and it costs too much. Of the two I'd be hard pressed to choose a winner - support is IMPORTANT. That said - cheap W/B solutions are now here. For about $600 I'll have a full on W/B solution in my car that will read realtime A/F and give my ECU feedback. I'll know where to make changes to get desired A/F and in the future will be able to have the ECU self modify it's own fuel maps if I desire. Yeah, on the street WOT tuning is a PITA but this will help a great deal. Driveability must be tuned on the street anyway IMO, even a loading dyno would be hard pressed to do it "right" IMO. I'll even be able to monitor EGT in multiple cylinders (Ihave per cylinder timing and fuel control), light up warning lites for anything I want (lean A/F or boost too high fo rinstance), run staged injectors, 2step rev limit using fuel or spark, nitrous activation (and can pulse the solenoids if I were that brave), traction control (eventually), control boost vs roadspeed (!), and MANY other things with my AEM. FAST, DFI, and MOTEC have a competitor on their hands and it only cost me $1200! Yeah, sounds expensive but price out the competition For a race unit I'd have paid a little more to get the harness etc. but you get the idea - it's not a $3K+ system out of the box. I have $1800 in mine including W/B. FAST and DFI charge an added fee for their W/B as does Holley too. I smell a priceware coming by the end of the year If all of this is too expensive or complicated look at the Commander from Holley. It can now take W/B too and it has some good features. Not many bells and whistles but it does the job. Once fully tuned it will get great MPG, start everytime, and have as much power and torque as a carb if you want it to. Cost is EFI's ONLY downside, if WOT is ALL you care about then go carb because it's comparable under that narrow condition. On the dragstrip carbs will rule awhile longer (let them control boost and clutch with EFI and see what occurs!) and yeah NASCAR too but ask Formula 1 guys what they think of carbs Ask Rally racers what they think too, especially the turbo guys. If anyone is interested in talking more about the AEM lemme' know in the EFI section. AEM is about to open their own BBS for talking about their ECU and it's going to get technical very quickly. The numbers of things this ECU can do is amazing but yes it has some things that need work - it's been out less than 6months. I'm using it everyday now (shrug). EFI is IMO the way to go if you can afford it, for a street driven car it just makes more sens....

Have one in my Mustang - BIG The Z has nothing thanks to the T56. However, I've seen guys weld steel plate in the tunnel on ITS cars in order to protect against this, probably not a bad idea if you're going to be racing. Saw what a clutch explosion could do to a Mustang recently. Trashed the bellhousing, the trans, the block. Stock 5.0 clutch let go and that's all she wrote. Kid was lucky it blew down and not up Talked to a guy years ago who had owned a Z and flywheel bolts sheared. Claimed is came out whole and sawed right through the car and skipped on down the road shooting sparks. Yikes!

Yup, WideBand. They've gotten much cheaper too! OEM passenger cars are starting to use them and as a result the cost of the sensors has fallen. The FJO setup with a digital display (actual A/F ratio) runs about $600. The Techedge DIY-WB unit is significantly less expensive. The $22 sensors are pretty rough and in the case of some of them are useless much on either side of Stoich. Stoich is great for emissions NOT for power. Stoich is 14.7:1 and good power is made closer to 12:1 or even richer if running forced induction. The OEM units are inaccurate enough that factory ECUs will not read them at WOT. Can't speak to how rough a carb adjustment is but with multiple side draft carbs it's got to be finer than a big honking Holley!

My exhaust guy has welded on coated pipes a few times. Sandblaster or a slight grind will allow the weld to work. The stuff on the inside didn't seem to be a problem... To do this right use a Techedge or FJO unit.

300HP I think. Pretty wide motor but it revs nice. Make sure you measure well and that the stick will line up.

What O2s are you using? If they're a stock style O2 I wouldn't rely too heavily on the readins as stock style O2s are usually only very sensitive in the 14.7:1 range. FJOINC.COM (think that's it) sells some VERY nice ones that are W/B. The DIY-WB guys also have a setup that's cheaper. I can probably direct you to a good deal on the FJO stuff if that's of interest to you. Some of them will even do datalogging!

Can't wait to hear all about it once it's running! I too would like to build a catch-can. There are some nice ones out there form the likes of Greddy aka Greedy but the cost is a joke! I thougth I saw some in Summit or Jegs that would work, has anyone looked closely there?

Okay, I HAVE to ask - what occured and when? Was this out at th eMSA show recently? Details man!

Supra TT rear? It's been done by at least one guy - he built a Zupra out of a 240Z ;D However I never saw pics of the rear end nor did I ever talk with the guy. The rears are pretty strong but the ratio might not be to your liking. In the 3.21 range I THINK depending upon if it's an Auto rear or a 6speed rear. Auto is deeper. Dunno if it would have to be narrowed but I'm pretty sure it mounts on a nice subframe so be sure to get that. Scottie, did you ever measure up a Supra rear when you were looking?