BLKMGK

I don't have that radiator but... I used some aluminum strap that was welded to look sort of like an F. For pads I used the S-10 pads the JTR book talks about. Those are SWEET and made of what looks like urethane. Cheap too

That's not the AEM i'm running... This is a brand new one and it damn near knocks the socks off of a Motec system. A bit complicated but I have no doubt it'll run like a raped ape once sorted out. Am looking forward to the Automapping upgrade and eventually traction control - that will be VERY sweet Dual knock sensors, can run 10 injectors, 5 coils, log 4EGT, and on and on. Read abut it on SupraForums.com in the MKIV Tech section. I've got lots to learn abouot it but I'm getting there. FMIC installed today too - it's HUGE.

Umm, the AEM ECU I'm tinkering with has Anti-Lag features built into it. You simply RETARD timing way back and if you want I guess you can run extra fuel too. The idea is to ignite LATE and have the mixture still burning when the exhaust valve opens. I believe this is how most of the rally guys do it, I'm not sure they actually run injectors into the exhaust manifold. I'm told EGTs SKYROCKET and that turbo damage is a very real possibility.

Some things to consider.. First, it sounds like you're trying to "trick" the stock ECU. In doing so you're going to be modifying inputs modifying programming you can only guess about. Pitfalls await If you're going to try and run the whole injections system from say a laptop I think you'll find that most OS have too much overhead to be able to effectively do so. Ever have an MP3 stutter because of something else you've done? Expect much worse trying to do this with a laptop. BSOD will take on a whole new meaning! I beleive you'll find dedicated hardware to be more reliable. Go find the DIY-EFI mailing list and read up on their efforts. Youll find some cost savings there if that's your biggest issue. Modifying older GM ECUs is also VERY possible... Go look at the new AEM PnP computers. I've got one in my Supra and it's being heavily talked about on SupraForums. It cost $1200 and is VERY capable once you figure it all out A race unit that will fit anything will be released eventually and I may run one in my Z. P.S. If anyone is interested in FJO Wide Band O2s for tuning give me a shout, I may have a line on them for about 18% under their list - supposedly dealer cost although I'm trying to verify that Will be able to read A/F realtime with less hassle than assembling the DIY WB system, assembled DIY units are on a 3week backorder currently FYI

I know all about making them except that I actually DRIVE this car. To make one will require time to make measuremnts and figure out how to mount it. That's the only reason why these guys get so much for theirs - they've done some engineering is all. I'm considering buying one and copying th eheck out of it We'll see, bigger injectors on my stock rail, if found reasonably priced, would be ideal...

The 429 thing comes from the crossbolted mains - nothing more that I know of. Oh, and liek the SOHC engine it's got mile long timing chains (lol)

Oh man, this is th esort of thing that REALLY pisses me off too! The RX7 I have is FLAWLESS, no dings anywhere. How it's managed to stay that way I don't know but I am VERY careful when I drive it. The Supra has already suffered a ding and I've owned it for less than 6months (sigh). The Z is also straight as an arrow, no dings, but I drive it very little these days and usually to cruises when I do. If I ever witness someone ding my car or come out and spot a mark that I can tell came from the car next to me I DO damage their car. I know two wrongs don't make a right but geez people who are so careless are jerks. BTW, if I saw someone intentionally bash my car I would indeed confront them. I wuld also be speaking to their insurance company or find myself restrained by police. There's simply no reason to damage someone else's property and I am VERY careful to never ding another person's car. I frequently cover the door edge with my hand and when getting out of friend's cars do the same while other passengers exit. It's just not cool for someone to spend a mint and then get bashed by morons!

FWIW, my filler is inside, yeah I don't like it either but for occasional fun car use it's not so bad. It's under a sheetmetal "house" so technically it's not IN the passenger compartment. Also, if I had to do it again I'd go with a BIGGER fuel cell and shift it to one side. A BIG single pipe oout the stock location looks nice IMO and involved no cutting of metal to accomplish. I run a total of three mufflers now and it's quiet enough at last with some resonance still there.

My Z switches GROUND for th ehigh and low beams. If you do a search here you'll find my trials from when I wired up my lights with relays. Are these lights a higher wattage? If so use relays or you'll smoke that switch. Wish I could help you better but it's been awhile since I troubleshot mine. If it were in front of me.... (sigh) Be sure and get a schematic to look at, it really helps. Volt meter on the various connections too!

Unfortunatly in order to use those injectors I need a fuel rail. Top feed fuel rails for the Supra run - get this - $350!!! What I really need are some side feed peak/hold injectors (sigh). Blitz makes some 860cc units that will fit my car - only $160 apiece So, I can buy new Accell units for $90 each and a $350 rail, or buy 6 Blitz @ $160 and a modified rail (AN fittings) for $75. Used top feed injectors are appealing but only if I can find a rail that's reasonably priced. (sigh) Rail stock is $20 a foot max and some adapters have to be machined for the intake side. Cost to build is about $60 and don't think I've not considered ordering a rail and duplicating it! Got my ECU, got my MAP, am gong to get an AIT, need to get WB O2 and FUEL dang it.

Friend of mine in Jersey just called me on the way home from the rack - kicked out. He ran an easy 11.70 with 18lbs of boost launching at 3lbs The turbo he's got works best at 22lbs so he figures he's got a few more ponies on the table. That was on pump gas BTW

Heh, new here huh? Look at the Taurus 2speed fans and th eFord Cobra fans (seem to be single speed). These are dirt cheap in the yards, have a bit of a shroud, and my Cobra fan actually creates a BREEZE at the back of th ecar if the hood is up! It's been known to suck paper off the ground and stick it to my radiator too - it's awesome! Pics of th emounting is on my site but I owe the ideas to Pete.

2.3liter Probes were indeed Mazda made - not the same motor as was used in the SVOMerkurPinto I'm looking for low impedance injectors in a 650cc+ size. Anyone seen a pic of those Mazda injectors? Would LOVE to use something like that if I could. Have a source for 850cc flowed top feed low impedance injectors for $90 apiece but need a rail for the Supra first. Fords.. Mustang HO was 19lbs, Lightning was 30lbs I think. 24 was found in the Cobra and some trucks. GMs had pretty low flow injectors if I recall. 460 big block Fords may have had some decent sized injectors, I'm not sure. I might be able to use 72lb low impedance too. Keep 'em coming guys - this is needed info bigtime.

Price range? FAST makes a nice system - used to be sold under the Felpro name. The DFI GENVIII is nice but pricey. The new AEM is looking good but hasn't been released as a race system yet only PnP. Cost on th eAEM is about $1200 for the PnP and more for a race system w/harness. SDS might be cheapest overall and has certainly been proven.

http://www.wsbf.net/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=2614 Read the whole thing, I was DYING reading it! This is one VERY funny story and a lesson to some punk

Doh! That would've been nice to have a year ago Oh well, I've got the E-brake from Mike to install when I do my CVs. If I can line up the cables etc. I'll be in business!

The SS headers fit great at the port - wnderful fit! But they hit on th edriver's side right at the motor mount as I recall. The Rewarder headers fit on the Driver's side and I could swear they fit on the passenger side too but the exhaust shop says NOPE! I did NOT know that they could match ports - doh! Dunno' when I'll get to test fit mine again. I want to try and do the CV swap this weekend, we'll see. If I get bold I may try the exhaust again but due to the angled collectors it will NOT mount to my existing exhaust system On th eplus side I found out that the exhaust shop I'm using has put a turbo in a late model V8 Camaro with FIVE inch exhaust Tehy're pretty cool too so I know I'll be getting exhaust done there for awhile to come.

No prob, just let me know. Woman is going to be walking 60miles for a breast cancer charity event from Friday EARLY until Sunday so I'm thinking MAYBE I'll be able to get started on the CVs. Take LOTS of pics at MSA and see if you can't find us some CF vendors Headers will be here when you get back!

Yup, Centerforce SFI piece here too - HEAVY! Note that my block is a "one piece seal" block but that the damned stroker crank still took the old style flywheel! So much for using the LT1 flywheel on my garage floor Probably better to have the SFI piece anyway. (sigh) So far as I know only Centerforce is making these conversion flywheels...

Heh, you sure the secondaries are opening? My car dyno'ed pretty close to yours and I've pretty much confirmed that the secondaries are NOT opening. My combo is supposed to be good for 450 at th ecrank and made just 300 at the wheels. No jetting has been done etc. - EFI i smy end plan.

Maybe try ducting it some? Out something between it and the radiator to force airflow through one and into the other? Tilting it might lose a little bit of effeciency but since intercoolers mostly act as big heatsinks for limited bursts of cooling I think what you're doing ought to work fine. I've also read somewhere that angling a radiator can cause it to cool better so if it works for one it ought to work for the other. I think it was a radiator site that had said that but I'm fuzzy on where I'd seen it. Heck, with all of that space you've got there I'd maybe even consider a Taurus cooling fan for the intercooler too!

Well, I don't feel too bad about stalling this car. Anyone who has ever tried to drive it stalls the car on the first try if i don't warn them and even then they often stall it. This clutch grips like mad and has almost ZERO slip. Real PITA but I'm told it'll get better with time

Start by researching those who have already done this. It HAS been done and there are pics on the WEB of at least one US car and one JDM car with the later diff in it. Custom axles etc. might be doable and even shortening the stock ones but check to see who's been there first - this HAS come up here before too. Scottie's rear conversion can also be narrowed I'm pretty sure. Might be interesting to price it out and see - I'd want to keep my 5.0 wheels though I'll see if I break my ZXT CVs and 88LSD first though. Might work on that next weekend!

Stay away from SupraStore! That's what I hear often whenever Supra parts come up. In a Z you wouldn't have to buy their specialized stuff anyway IMO. Things like intercoolers could easily be sourced elsewhere for instance. DO look into the AEM ECU for these cars - it looks pretty awesome. There are lots of parts out for the 4.6. However I don't think you'll get as much power as easily. My cars has an exhaust, raised boost, and a K&N stuck on the end of th eintake hose. It made 390RWHP and 427ft lbs of torque. Very peaky but with a better intercooler and a boost controller as opposed to an open wastegate I'd have probably done better. Cam gears pick up about 15RWHP, intercooler supposedly 30RWHP. Tune the electronics and lose the MAF and you can gain 40RWHP. I've done NONE of that so far Single turbo puts you in the 500RWHP club on moderate boost - say 18lbs or less. Transmission is a 6speed with only 6th being an OD gear. Gear spacing with the Supra rear and tire height is AWESOME. NOT sure how well it would work out on a Z. So far as I'm concerned the Supra is the GN of the 90s!

Noooo! No Sawzall fo rthose mounts. Get an air powered chisel. It will zip the spot welds right off and not damage anything if you do it right I tried a Sawzall on my car - no way could I get it in there. Oh, wear earplugs with the air chisel - trust me on that