BLKMGK

Yup, works fine! The Autometer has a programmable speedo. Take the car out and pace off a mile, punch a button, and it's done. It will give you a pulse total as you go so if you know how many pulses you need for the distance you can just go by that. In my case I used a GPS to pace off the mileage and my speedo is now DEAD ON accurate. The Autometer speedo is the way to go - get one with th eLCD odometer too BTW, it's NICE! They've got some indiglo units coming out too - I'd love ot have a set of those

I'm in the process of putting in 280Z stubs - used of course. As for losing a wheel - I think having disk brakes in the back will capture it well enough not to lose the wheel. It might bind and lockup though so I'm not sure it's much better in the end... Not sure what the best solution is but I'm all ears on this...

Turbo! Seriously, drive a car with a nice turbo and feel the rush as boost comes on. You'll fall in love and never look back

Whoa! I missed this conversation - Mike when did you find this out?! Ouch! As for cost on rodspistons etc. - tell me about it. I've got Eagle rods and forged pistons in my motor. Not super expensive stuff but not cheap either! But I don't have to worry about it failing unless something freakish happens

Couple of things... That knob is attached to a rheostat - it could be "dirty" inside. Try to find some "tuner cleaner" from someplace like radio shack. Electrical contact cleaner might also work. If you can get it in there that might help. Another problem is dirt - the bulbs get dirty, the lenses they sit in get dirty - all sorts of stuff. Clean them if you can and you may see an improvement. Last but not least - the supply voltage. What's th evoltage going to the circuit in the fuse box? Lot's of Zs have problems with corrosion in the fuse box. Flip the fuse box over and look at th eterminals - often they begin to melt due to high resistance which causes heat. A side effect of this is lower supply voltages to darn near everything! If your contacts are dirty there this could also cause problems with the dash lights and other things too. Hrm, and are you sure ALL of the bulbs are working? Maybe a few burned out?

Soounds like the fluid boild in the calipers. Did you change the fluid before doing this or simply add for what was lost? If this is the solid rotor conversion the rotor is probably an issue too...

Wait a little while fo rth eAutometer Lunars - those would look KILLER! Unfortunatly they didn't have them when I wanted them and I had to go with the Phantoms - maybe next time

Top mount is easy - use pieces of aluminum strap from Lowe's The rubber is from an S-10 radiator mount - little rubber locating nubs and all... Fan on my car is from a Cobra - got it's motor over the 'net by using a Junkyard search engine. Google will find search engines like that for you and I've posted the URL in the past. You place a request with your E-mail and owners get back to you (shrug). Cheap Cheap! and

Been there, done that. I could find no suitable bracket for a SWP on my car. I bought a LWP an dfound some nice cheap good looking brackets no propblem Do a search and you're bound to find my thread of agony on this....

This has come up before. I said it then, I'll say it again - I wouldn't do it. I've seen a few of them that really held together but I've also seen at least 4 of them in my friend's shop with BAD head gasket issues and at least one of them with trashed pistons. These were cars that weren't hopped up - simply driven stock Overheat one of these puppies and it's toruble. There are better motors out there although if th eprice were "right" then I might consider one but.....

Hrm, WB O2 and gauge is best. EGT second, then maybe one of the A/F gauges that uses the stock O2s. EGT gauges tend to be slow. Unfortunatly the WB O2s are generally pretty expensive. The Aussie kit is nice and one of mine is nearly done but judging from some of the traffic on the list people have been having some problems getting their's assembled and calibrated correctly. We'll see how mine goes, I can get an FJO heater box for "only" $300, then you need a $100 sensor, and you still don't have a display (might be able to use the Aussie one but...). WBs are getting cheaper but still not as cheap as I'd like.

Hrm, obviously use a turbo block. Use a crank that's not been turned, use GOOD rods, use forged pistons with a low CR. I'd consider porting the head and using the best flowing one you could find too. Keep the rotating weight down as best you can. Use really good quality fasteners, especially head bolts, and make sure it's well oiled. So long as you've got fuel I'd guess that you could just keep laying (intercooled) boost to it until something let go! I really don't know at what point that would be but if everything was done right it ought to make a ton of power! Just remember that peak power isn't everything. My power in the Supra is pretty peaky right now, catch me loafing in the wrong gear and it's game over. Supra guys liek to brag peak power but if it's made at 7K with a 7500RPM redline what's the point? A nice broad power band that doesn't put the motor right on the edge of blowing up would probably make for a really nice fast L28 that you could drive and actually enjoy. Scottie raced his pretty successfully and learned a ton with it - he ought to be able to give you some really good pointers on what works for that motor. Start with a good DP and exhaust

Did a little test on th ehighway today... While going to work I found that at 3500RPM my car in 3rd is doing right about 55mph. On the way home when there was less traffic I tried to figure out the top end of third to see where it would end up As I rolled into the gas in 3rd at about 50mph car started pulling merrily along, I was at about 3/4 throttle and the road was damp, at 4-4.5K the back end began to get squirrly and I nearly wet my pants ! I got to a faster part of traffic that was drier and at 65mph downshifted into third and VERY lightly rolled into it. 85mph is about 6500RPM and I could feel the car stating to pick up boost again so I let out of it. Even though I wasn't WOT the car felt a little weird and the turbos were whistling like a tea kettle! Kinda' scary when you're not sure you've got good traction... Let's imagine that dyno run in third starting at about 50mph - I'm thinking the acceleration on that dyno sheet in 3rd vs 4th would look a little different. HP might be down some as I don't think I'd be able to build boost quite as easily. If I get a chance on the dyno again anytime soon I promise to get a 3rd gear pull done to see how quickly it accelerates. Would make for a really neat comparison IMO.

Nope, different ratios and I'm pretty sure that the input splines are different too. Use a V8 T5...

HID? THAT would be really schweet!

Hrm, not quite a "flywheel" - it's a GIANT drum with a great deal of inertia. Having said that - to compare it to a drag race datalog isn't fair. There's no wind resistance and there's little in the way of drag on the drum unless you set it up to drag. It's worthwhile to compare to another car dyno'd much the same way though. Looking at the two runs together it's tough to compare them. My run starts at a slightly higher MPH, the ZXT spools up, catches up, seems to run even with my car for a second, then my turbo spools and pulls away as the ZXT's curve stops at it's redline. IMO if this had been a side by side race on the highway the results shown here would be the result of the Supra driver being stupid leaving his car in the wrong gear For the MPH range that this "race" would've taken place n I feel the Supra would've been better suited to a 3rd gear pull. My pull ended at 119mph (higher RPM pull tho'), the ZXT at a "mere" 88mph. In short - I think this is inconclusive... P.S. Add torque as the third axis on the graph. The Supra is ahead, is briefly surpassed by the ZXT, and then as #2 spools up leaves the ZXT in the dust. Peak trq on the Supra (STD) is 437 and 288 from the ZXT. Just sort of interesting to look at IMO. A/F is interesting too. Scottie, any chance you'll dyno your car anytime?

There are a few things that seem to contribute to the Toyota's success... 4valves per cylinder seems to be a big one They also run VERY strong rods and good pistons. The crank and bearing setup must be pretty darned tough! Initial compression from the factory is only 8.3:1 too. The ECU is probably responsible for some of this - it's full sequential, I think one coil per plug, dual knock sensors, and very aggressive timing. The ECU will also run the car pig rich if you let it - it saves parts at the expense of some power. The fuel system, out of the box with slight mods, can support just over 500 crank HP. Not too shabby IMO! Bear in mind that while it's possible to make 600+HP on the stock block, and even more in some cases, engines that do this are NOT running stock turbos or fuel. Often times they're not running stock cams either. The longblock itself may be untouched but most everything supporting it has been tweaked pretty good. Supra motors DO blow but tuned correctly they won'tshouldn't. The ZXT motor is 2valve, has cast(?) pistons, and has the intake ports over the exhaust ports The Toyota motor benefits from years more development and you also have to realize they're not cheap. The sticker on my particular Supra was nearly $52K! This was years ago too - not like the ZO6s coming out now, we're talking nearly TEN years ago they cost this much This car was apparently geared for a racing series in Japan - just as some US cars may benefit from parts geared towards racing I believe the Supra benefited from Toyota's desire to race up front. The fact that the thing wasn't cheap allowed them to put some serious tech under the hood. To expect a ZXT motor to do that on stock internals just isn't fair. If Nissan (Skyline baby!), GM, or some other company decided to make that sort of commitment we'd see a really nasty motor come out of their camp - sadly they just don't seem interested. Perhaps the Subaru WRX success, the coming of the Skyline to US shores, and the Mitsu EVO VII supposedly coming will wake them up. My fingers are crossed but for now I think I'm pretty happy. AWD would've been nice though Honestly, I would love to have a "cheap" ZXT motor in an older Z to tinker with. I don't think I'd replace any of my existing cars to have it but IMO it sure would be fun to play with. Cost to replace that motor at normal junkyard prices isn't too bad - you could learn lot's! I envy the experience of some of the guys running and blowing them...

Here's my dyno data -> http://www.blkmgk.com/development/testweb.nsf/4691e0edd8a01bd6852569ae0075e9c4/1f346a0fe05a68fd85256b45000a73fa/$FILE/Runs.zip You'll need th eDynojet runviewer to look at it. I'm going to check out the L28 dyno run and overlay it with mine I did that with a friend's Lighttning ! His HP wasn't quite as high but it was MUCH earlier and flat across the RPM band. Supras are more peaky but geez, when the turbo spools it's party time!

Even scarier Scottie is that that was a 4th gear pull! In 3rd gear the acceleration is also really fast but to an obviously lower MPH. As I said - the kind of race we're talking about here (not getting into REALLY illegal speeds) is one I'd run in 3rd gear NOT 4th. Not sure how we could extrapolate the acceleration or if it would be quicker in the lower gear. Have to drive the car tomorrow so maybe I can see how high 3rd will take me Heh, it's actually a shame I'm not driving down Scottie or you could take it for a test spin. I have NO doubt that the acceleration is quicker on the dyno BTW. Supra people forever bitch about how the dyno doesn't provide the same resistance and that they make more power on the street with higher resistanceairflow over the intercooler Whatever - it's a tuning tool is all. It was fun to tell a Camaro guy the other day that I made 100+HP more than he did with a 3liter straight six. He was proud of his 13.1 1/4s too but I kept my mouth shut since mine hasn't seen a drag race yet. I'll put my Dynojet data files out there so you guys can look at them. First run was right off the street, still hot, second was just an ECU reset, third was high boost - no race gas. It's not pretty as I said - midrange shouldn't fall off the way it does.. As for HKS twins being less laggy that's weird. Most supra people don't want thm and claim that their lag is REALLY bad. I'm considering something like a T66 - we'll see.

Thanks Davy - will keep that in mind Tim, have you ever seen a Supra take off on the highway? I can't see that graph but let me tell you, when a Supra hits 4K and the second turbo comes on the power rush to 7K is INCREDIBLE! My car's pull was done in 4th gear - from 4th I was running 70MPH when the power rush hit - at 7K I was at 120. The time between 4K and 7K is so quick that I bump the rev limiter fairly often if I've not been driving the car recently and am in third. On the highway at 50MPH if I were going to race I'd put it into 3rd and brake boost it a little to get boost up. When you let your foot off the brake the car takes off like a scalded rabbit! In 3rd driving down the road at WOT the car actually tries to dart from side to side a little as it accelerates. It's hard to explain but you're doing 85+MPH so fast it's sick. 4th doesn't dart I don't think but it does lift the nose. Unfortunatly my dyno run won't show me time just RPM vs speed or power vs speed. From 80mph to 110mph I'm pulling over 350RWHP in 4th... P.S. Just found "time" in my dyno vewer! From 6.5secs into the run where I'm going 70mph till the time I hit 115mph is just under 4secs on the dyno. That's 20mph above your starting point but I'd be in third for that pull in a race, not 4th. My dyno curve is an ugly and poorly tuned example but it can be found here The dip in the curve is turbo #1 running out of breath with #2 not being properly prespooled. A mod done to my car causes this and will be reversed "soon". Normally the transition would be higher up and MUCH smoother (shrug).

Umm... DFI is NOT behind. Compare th eGEN7 vs th eFAST - DFI kicks the FAST aorund the block! Go from batch to sequential pon the FAST and you have to not only sent it back to the factory but you lose some outputs! Same thing with th eGEN7? Flip a switch in software and away you go. No loss of outputs, no factory visit, no added cost that I'm aware of. Go look at the GEN7 software demo on my site (in th epics area under EFI stuff). The FAST has some features in it's datalogging I like better but the GEN7 is capable of not only detecting bad sensors or input but of taking corrective action for many scenarious and warning you with a check engine light. I found no such feature in the FAST system - I think their demo is on my site too. Electromotive used to be what I'd consider a top dog, now I'm not so sure. I'd take it over the Wolf though - no offense. The handheld LCD programmer isn't something I'd consider a feature - I want full datalogging to a laptop and I want wideband capability. I don't think the Wolf offers the same lattitude or WB ability. Does it offer datalogging? It's certainly cheaper and if it works terrific but it wouldn't be my very first choice. (shrug) Wideband, to me, is a KEY feature. I want an ECU that will take my target A/F ratios, adjust to meet those targets, and then in the datalogs tell me what cells it had to modify and by how much - FAST and GEN7 do this WELL, I'm not sure about the latest TEC3 yet. Do they have the software for it out there? Is it much changed? Check out the AEM ECU too. The race version shoudl work for us well and fit most any engine we choose. It should be released mid Febuary and I expect one to go on my Supra very soon afterwards. Will report what I find when I do - cost is about $1300 for my applicaiton - slightly more for a "race" model but same internal hardware. http://www.supraforums.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=10402

It's FINALLY out?! Wow, they throwing snowballs in hell now? They've been getting ready to release it since mid-Summer! Who's going to try one first and where can we learn more about it?

Beware those rockers. When they go to fix them make SURE they pull the fornt fenders off and check the drains. Often times leaves will get in the cowl, drain into th efender area, block up that area, rust through into the rocker, and then make one heck of a mess inside the rocker Fix any rust and for the future run a hose from the cowl drains down to the holes by the front fenders to prevent this from occuring later on. You'll probably find a ton of garbage under the front fenders too

Yeah, they showed that at SEMA and I posted about it awhile ago. Head over to the Chevytalk.com site and go into the EFI section. There's a Holley engineer there who's VERY helpful and has probably helped develop that system for EFI cars. I ASSume it uses th esame high pressure fuel source as the fuel injection does and as such running a second dedicated fuel system would be a PITA. Just make sure your primary fuel system has enough flow and then some - should be fine. I asked th eengineer if pushing the fuel injector up higher like that disturbed power production since the injector was moved - his answer as I recall was that they noticed no loss of power. IMO this is a really cool way to get port nitrous injection

Try the Pep Boy's solid joints first. It's dirt cheap to try them and perhaps you'll get longer life out of them. I have one of them myself but it didn't seem to fit real well and I gave up - I no longer have any backup shafts reay to roll. This is why I went to CVs. IF the solid joint is no better try the CVs. It's worth a shot since the next step up is a 'Vette or solid rear. Scottie will soon be exploring the 'Vette solution so if you can hold off he'll have data to share and maybe we'll find that it's better. His install certainly sounded less traumatic than a 9inch would be...