Villeman

Hey, engine is running well. Had some problems with the differential and a 3:11 ended up in the rear with a TR style mount ^^. Sadly I didn´t get it on the street this year, with corona travel restrictions etc. I will take the time to also get the CA18DET gearbox up to date (I feel like a hoarder, already got 3 or 4 ^^). Next year will be fun again hopefully. In the mean time I really think about buying a Toyota Bandit.....I guess I need help (like in counselling....) ... and Dan, I definitely will! This planning on discussing this over a steak at some point!

Hallo all, just got word from my mechanic that my Diff is toast. From his statement, the whole drivetrain blocks up when hot, no play at all. Loosens again when cold. Thing is, I am running a shortened driveshaft (200sx gearbox conversion) + an RT mount. Can this combination too much for the Diff? I know RT mount gives me 2° of misalignment, any idea about the gearbox input? Would like to figure things out before the next R200 goes in ^^ . Also, does anybody know EXACTLY how much to shorten a 280z 2+2 driveshaft (76model) for the KA24DET gearbox? There are 1,5" and 2" floating around, mechanic said it looks too short, but I am quite sure I followed instructions. Thanks, Richard

Hello, I am in need of a 76 thermostat housing (preferrably with the sensors still in) since I fried mine overheating the engine recently. i am quite sure other model years will work too. Best regards, Richard

Hi, do you happen to have a thermostat housing with the sensors from a 280z? Greetings, Richard

Do you happen to have a Thermostat housing with the sensors? Overheated my engine and fried them up

Update time: managed to get a 4 terminal HEI Module in Germany and threw it in yesterday. I followed Eurodats description on classiczcar and put it in place in the passenger footwell. Car runs really! good now, no issues with engine dying anymore (more testing to come). The only issue was a hot-start problem, car wouldnt run after shutting it down hot. the weird thing, we pushed it back 2 meters and it immediately started again (was cranking over before but quite unwillingly). But I did fill up with E5 (presumed to provoke vapor lock) Battery was low-ish Temp switch sensor has a nearly ripped cable -> so more things to fix I don´t think those two things are connected. Thanks for your help everybody!

It runs perfectly after 20 minutes. What I observed: It now sounds more "powerful" , maybe better spark/change of spark? (I disassembled the resistor for measuring properly) We drove it again and it cut out from running perfectly. Tach dropped to zero immediately. Cranking afterwards moved the tach though. We brought another spark plug along, directly after the engine dying we checked and had spark (but that time you could restart it after 30 seconds, not like last time where it took 15 minutes). One funny thing, it cut out again while driving but then I ran over a speed bump and it ran again……. O_o What I will do now, get a HEI modul, coil (if I see it right, around 0,5 Ohm and NOT the 1,5 or 3 Ohm ones) and clean the ignition lock. One thing, the ignition lock is quite word, you can pull out the key while running and it continues to run. Could this cause those problems?

Hello Guys, I stumbled upon a problem getting my car out of hibernation. The car: All stock unmolested 280z 2+2 CALIFORNIA VERSION from 9/75 -> 76 Model. Everything still in place, CAT,EGR,Vaccum system etc. I drove maybe 15 km and the engine stopped INSTANTLY. No stumbling nothing --> Indicates an ignition problem since car ran after a 15min break, only to die again 3 min later. Same happened after towing it home. Sadly I did not monitor the tach so no idea if it dropped suddenly Observations: Fuel Pump was very quiet, ran today and was a lot louder. --> would indicate fuel pump issues Metered the coil+ballast today: 2.8Ohms , FSM says change over 1 (correction, FMS says change if COMBINED VALUE is over 2) ….BUT the coil itself read 1,5 Ohm, so I assume it was changes from the stock 0,6 Ohm at some point (Dan? ) One weird part, messed around with the wiring under the steering wheel (thought about ignition key issues) and I shut down, but I could never repeat this issue. My questions now: Which coil to replace with (just to be sure), because Pertronix etc are all 1,5 or 3 Ohm. Any idea how to check the fuel pump before changing it? (I had issues with a LOT of rust, basically the pump had to chew through a pound of rust from the tank so I would at least not be surprised ) Any other ideas? ICM is hard to test, currently looking for a GM HEI Module to bypass. Did fry the ICM with a hairdryer on hot though, no issues thanks in advance, Richard

Hey all, I am looking for side-mirrors, preferrably chrome ones (no need to be original). Not the fender mirror bullet style please best regards, Richard

Long Story short…. I blew up the engine replaced a freeze plug the engine builder missed…. and the replacement was too loose (kind of knew that or at least was afraid of). Testdrives etc were fine and 400km further I had to do a hard pull on the autobahn an tadaaaaa, coolant blew out. Sadly I drove to the next parking lot because I thought it was fire (black smoke coming in immediately) fast forward.. pulled the engine and that thing is tough as nails! 2-3 miles without coolant while already hot and nothing. Rings good, crosshatch good, head good. We pulled the main bearings and they showed wear (they were still original one though). Talk about being lucky! Freezeplug, main bearings and rod bearings will be replaced and hopefully I will be back on the road in 2-3 weeks

Finally I am done. Had some issues with suspension and injectors. Now it is doooone! (This time for real^^ )

+1 but come back if you want to turbo it

yes, but once they break containment..... and if there is oil and not air surrounding the broken seal. They were okay when I got them and a year later you cant move them one inch. Still, yes, success!

I would maybe remove everything thats not needed just in case. Aren´t people suggesting ATF and a 1-2 day soak for this? Make sure you are not mangling up the chain in case it dropped down in a bad position (you did remove the wedge for chain Immobilisation, right ? ) then just try to work it in both directions, more of a rattling, trying to break the rings loose (an idea: If he puts the head on and uses a drill to prime the oil pump, would that bring oil back to the crank? )

So, a quick update: Apparently all shocks seized completely. Since seizing for air shocks is unknown to me, I assume the Oil in the strut casing did this (filled to the top) so thats definitely something to know! Thanks everybody for the help. New shocks are in and rides like a charm

280z 2+2 and I think for the front suspension there should be no difference

So, KYB delivered to Germany in 2 Days (Rockauto+Fedex) Just thinking, how can I check whether I have mixed up the springs? 76 280z 2+2 …...just want to be SURE this time !

Yes, they are old stock... guess I will order KYB for peace of mind thanks everybody!

Well, drove the car quite a bit. At this point i am unsure about the source of the problems, true. Thing is, one side can be pushed in when i lean on the fender like I would expect, and I would be fine if it were just stiff. But changing stiffness with repeated compression is strange. True on the gas shocks not knowing their surrounding. I stil assume that filling in oil (mistake, instructions read later stated: NEVER FILL THE OUTER CASING WITH OIL). Just wanting to be sure since I would have to order shocks from the states or potentially block our lift for a month.

Hey, no, I drove it like that for some time (don´t ask...around 700 miles). The Gabriels were available but I think I will go KYB ones for now.

Hey guys, sooooo… if have a problem with my suspension. I swapped to a full poly setup and first mistake, we didnt loosen and retighten the bolts once the chassis was in neutral position but we fixed that. BUT: I was so smart to put Gabriel shocks in AND THEN add oil. I now have the funny problem that pushing the fender down once works fine, twice becomes harder and 3 times makes the suspension hard as a brick. My question is, can I just remove the oil or did I kill the shocks already ? (in that case I would need to order replacements before dismanteling them) Thanks, Richard

The code should be on a paper sticker in the glovebox. I know an adress in the netherlands that cuts perfect keys based on that number but I guess thats not really feasible for you guys. IIRC the code on the key is useless for this ^^ . He is also skilled enough to get the code from a key picture. You could ask nicely maybe. He found out that my key was not actually for my car since its profile didn´t match the paper-glovebox sticker and now all locks work a LOT better. PM for adress

Just to be able to blame back. Check the oil flow on each lobe before use ^^

I just multimetered them. Plug/wiring seems good. I guess its either blocked or getting tired. (3 are acutally still the original ones). Anybody has 3 spares? ^^

soooo.....I am basically an idiot.... the long version, looks like one injector seized or got blocked. I can still hear it firing with a screwdriver, but less defined, and when I pull the plug nothing changes as opposed to all other cylinders. Can I swap over the plug from cylinder 3? They should all fire at the same time, right? Just to rule out the cable..