proxlamus©

Ok... something new... It WONT rev past 2,000 RPM... Which is why when I try driving it wont run past 2,000 RPM... hmm I have an FSM actually for my car.. i tried looking.. and no luck.. I also unplugged the TPS to see if it was bad .. but it still didnt run past 2,000 RPM with or without the TPS... I didn't swap in a WHOLE new engine.. I just used my stock N47 head and block which was already in my car and I did a manifold swap... and with some 310cc injectors

Hey guys.. I just finished my turbo swap... and I started her up this morning and she idle'd and ran fine... and it revved great!! BUT when I backed her out into the street and put it in first gear and started to engage the clutch the engine started cutting out and died... What could be wrong with it? I checked all electrical connections that I could and I checked for spark and good fuel pressure and it's fine.. But what the hell could be wrong with it?? here are some pics

e-mail sent !

Hey guys.. I am doing my turbo swap next week.. with my Z31 turbo.. and I will be using the Z31 downpipe.. and I just bought a 3" downpipe, and there is one minor problem... the Z31 turbo has the following : Turbo charger Downpipe, O2 elbow and wastegate housing attached as one the 280ZX turbo has the following : Turbo charger Wastegate housing bolted onto the turbo Then the downpipe and O2 elbow This is the downpipe courtesy to Jared! Now I know I should post this in the classifieds.. i've been here for 2 years.. but I need HELP bad from you guys!! Does anyone have a spare wastegate housing from a 280ZX turbo? I have the turbo and the new 3" SS downpipe hehe.. but I need the wastegate housing which holds the wastegate flapper... Thanks guys! please please help me out!

wow!! very nice numbers!!! I hope I can get those numbers some day... =) well find out next week when I do my swap.. upload that video!!

whoaa.. thats a weird sound... sounds like it may not be getting enough oil?! anyone have a good answer?

hahaha.. drax..

hey bastaad.. nice wheels.. now ya just need to polish them up like I did! BTW - what size intercooler piping did you use to clear the stock fan and dizzy? I have 2.5" piping.. hoping it'll fit

Hey guys.. I will be bolting on my turbo to my N47 head and block in a few weeks... and I am trying to figure out timing... now I have the vaccum advance dizzy on my 1978 280Z... and I am trying to figure out how to "tune" it.. or make it run right with 10psi.... I've read of people using silicone or JBweld to "seal" up or close off the advance slots to prevent too much advance under boost... I have a problem picturing this.. How do I seal or close up the advance slots? Within a month of my conversion I will being MegaSquirt with the help of Moby.. but I would like to see how it runs on N/A electronics first... Also.. I have read on the forums that the N/A vacuum advance dizzy's are easy to tune.. both mechanically and with a timing light.. so I can choose to advance or retard it by hand basically .. compared to the turbo or ZX dizzy's.. (i know Tony D is going to say there is NO turbo dizzy.. but anyway) I checked BLUE's tech tips page and read up on adjusting the timing and dizzy.. but i dont understand the advance "slots"

bastaad25.. do you have ANY pics of your car.. I would LOVE to see your car..and some shots of the engine bay and intercooler setup!!

nm answered my own question...

Jersey did you have to cut your radiator support to fit in those pipes? Or did you use the existing holes?

ohh please.. make a VIDEO!! I wanna hear it in action !

sweet fancy moses!! That is .. absolutly.. gorgeous!! WOW!

http://www.atpturbo.com/root/releases/release091004.htm ---------------------------- Enter the VES (Virtual Exhaust System)…….A system that works “on demand†at the onset of boost on turbo and supercharged vehicles to free up all the backpressure (just as a large exhaust system would) in the exhaust stream so the engine can make maximum power. The VES system works as an active dump tube that completely bypasses the restrictive exhaust system when boost is present. As soon as the turbo spools, the valve begins to open. By the time the turbo makes full boost, the valve is fully open. Highlights of the way VES works: * Completely quiet and stock-like sounding during startup, idle, and cruising. * 0 delay in valve response to boost, yet very smooth transition into boost mode. * Automatic open/close under boost using existing boost source on turbo engine and does not rely on wing nuts or electrical motors. * Integrate a boost controller to control when the valve opens or completely turn it off. * Addresses virtually all complaints associated with large 3†cat-back exhaust systems. ------------------------------------------ VIDEO : Right Click and SAVE AS! http://www.atpturbo.com/root/releases/images/release091004/ATP_Virtual_Exhaust_System.wmv Anyone think this is a true performer.. or some cheapo gimmick?!?

Thanks!

it should run ok... just adjust the AFM a few teeth to the right to LEAN it out a bit http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/afm/index.html Check out that link.. has great pics and an excellent write up. As for the injectors are they O-ring injectors or barbed? For example do the injectors have hoses connected to them and the fuel rail? If so they are barbed. If the injectors literally fit inside of go into the fuel rail they are o-ring. You can buy a fuel rail from Pallnet a member here who makes them for around $125... you can order it barbed or o-ring. I am running 6 370cc Toyota Supra Turbo injectors on an NA motor right now.. runs fine

just get a little razor and trim off the excess... so make the circle on the gasket to a square.. very easy to do.. won't hurt anything

have you tried adjusting the AFM?? anyway.. a good source for injectors is eBay!! i find them ALL the time

that sound.. that sounded like a blow off valve.. and you don't have one.. is BAD.. that's the sound of the compressed air being forced back into the turbo.. which could result in stalling or even breaking the fins/blades on the compressor!! If your POV was not plugged up you could haev prevented it... but be careful... that forced air slamming into a closed throttle butterfly, will jump back down the intake and into the turbine... which is a no no

hit me up on AIM : YInSaNeAsYLuM i have TONS of pics I can send you.... like over 50 pics of specifically intercooler plumbing and turbo's

LoL.. I will be going through Moby.. since he lives not far from me... and he is willing to build it for me! well for some $$ ofcourse !! But how much ya looking for>?

thanks EZ-E!

Well after attempting to re-install the Apexi S-AFC.... and hooking up the potentiometer type TPS from the 240SX..... the Apexi S-AFC is a failure.. as I read on a BMW website, I needed to set the sensor voltage type to 01 out of 15 settings... anyway... no matter what settings, or sensor types or voltage types or fuel increase it ran very rough and would intake backfire and detonate (sounded like popcorn).. it would idle fine, but over 1,000 RPM it all went to hell... Here's my conclusion.... the Apexi S-AFC will NOT work with the stock 280Z L28 electronics, nor the 280ZX stock electronics... there has been results with a 300ZX ECU and MAF.... but our flap type AFM will not work. I can however, convert the AFM with a BMW MAF (no flap and hotwire type sensor).. or a Z31 MAF.. but it would cost some more money... Anyway... it was cool to see the throttle position, and O2 sensor readings, and RPM all on the same display in bright blue.. but ehh.. boring i'm going MEGASQUIRT!!!

Well after attempting to re-install the Apexi S-AFC.... and hooking up the potentiometer type TPS from the 240SX..... the Apexi S-AFC is a failure.. as I read on a BMW website, I needed to set the sensor voltage type to 01 out of 15 settings... anyway... no matter what settings, or sensor types or voltage types or fuel increase it ran very rough and would intake backfire and detonate (sounded like popcorn).. it would idle fine, but over 1,000 RPM it all went to hell... Here's my conclusion.... the Apexi S-AFC will NOT work with the stock 280Z L28 electronics, nor the 280ZX stock electronics... there has been results with a 300ZX ECU and MAF.... but our flap type AFM will not work. I can however, convert the AFM with a BMW MAF (no flap and hotwire type sensor).. or a Z31 MAF.. but it would cost some more money... Anyway... it was cool to see the throttle position, and O2 sensor readings, and RPM all on the same display in bright blue.. but ehh.. boring i'm going MEGASQUIRT!!!