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proxlamus©

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Everything posted by proxlamus©

  1. Well Well.. finally got everything welded up and mounted!! It was scary and a pain to do this all by myself... with no help. I would highly recommend two cherry pickers if you are to go this route.. one for the front.. one for the back. Basically I got the car as high as I could with a normal floor jack and 6 ton jack stands. After attaching the brackets, I went ahead and mounted the engine stands on the brackets. You can see how they are laying on their side in the pictures. I figured as I continued to jack the car up the stands would swing into place. I started by buying a 12' stick of 4x4 pressure treated lumber for $12.78 at Home Depot. I cut it up in 4 qty - 3' lengths and stacked them on top of the floor jack. the 3' length is perfect to mount horizontally across the frame rails. The rear of the car was supported by the cherry picker and a tow rope.. as I slowly lifted the front, I would lift the back.. very slowly one side at a time. The 6 ton jack stands almost seem like they are made to have a 4x4 piece of lumber across the stands (jack stand > 4x4 > chassis).. it fits perfect. Eventually I got both stands to swing into place and I pulled out the jackstands and lumber and voila! I was going to weld a cross support to tie the stands together but it was pretty solid as it is. Looks like I did some bad measurements.. the car will not completely flip upside down.. but its fine.. i wouldnt be able to crawl on top anyway lol. Ceiling is too low. Anyway.. here are some pics.
  2. the welds looks a little cold.. if your doing spot welds all around.. wait another second or two on that spot to let it penetrate other then that looks good since your grinding it all off
  3. great tip theghosttanker!! John mentioned that on one of his threads when building his. I am definitely tying the two stands together =) no doubt about that
  4. oh lordy... see what happens when you over think things and dont take a time out?! haha
  5. ah.. i considered that.. but I wanted to avoid spending the $3.04 for each bolt.. it required 10mm 1.25 bolts that were about 5 inches long.. I know its only $15.. but every penny counts lol.
  6. lol.. everything looks great except the fuel cell?! how is it mounted?! looks a wee bit scary
  7. John how did you use just a straight bar stock?! The rear is curved... and there is an indention where the bolt holes are... I think that mounting a straight bar very securely would dent or bend the rear panel?! Maybe I can just throw on some 1/4" gussets from the 1x1 to the 2x2?!
  8. Good point John.. I noticed that the engine stands are naturally tilted back by a small small amount.. hmmm.. I did notice that my front bracket is perfectly level with the ground... and the stand is tilted back some.. aww crap. As for the rear bracket... how do you think this will work?? this is on a 280z.
  9. Welp after lots of frustrating time spent underneath the car getting ready for frame rails.. why not build a rotisserie.. I went out and purchased the following: 2 qty - 1000 pound engine stands from Habor Freight $59.99 each. 1 qty - 720 pound engine stand from Harbor Freight (for spare parts) $29.99!!! 7 linear feet of 2x2 .120 tubing ($14) 8 linear feet of 1x1 14ga tubing ($14) *As you can see.. the 1000 pound and 750 pound engine stand uprights are the SAME! **The engine stands need to be raised up to allow the car to fully rotate without the roof touching the ground.. I started by chopping up the original uprights The I cut up the spare 750 pound upright AANNNDD weld it all together Both are done Here is the front mount setup so far... I slotted the original engine stand mount to allow a more precise adjustment of the C.G. of the car when its up in the air!! Now I still have to build a mount for the rear of the car.. and I would like to add my 1x1 tubing along the upright of the engine stands for a little more strength. I will uploading more pics soon.. and mount the car!! ***thanks to John Mortensen for his ideas.. here is his original link if anyone is interested. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=126468&highlight=rotisserie ***
  10. dry can be applied to the floor pans from inside the car.. the intense cold will transfer through the metal.. allowing you to knock the bottom of the car with a hammer. I have highly considered a needle scaler though.. anyone have any success stories??!
  11. Z32 NA and TT transmissions are exactly the same. EXACTLY the same
  12. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=126468&highlight=rotisserie Perfect thread for ya DekThai
  13. wow.. how about 2 qty of the harbor freight engine stands.. thats $120 =)
  14. Hey John.. That was the first price I found online =).. lack of searching on my end. .095 wall it is
  15. Im seriously all over the place right now.. I can't decide if i should spend the ~$450 for a Kirky cage.. or spend nearly $350 for a tubing bender.. and then $9.99 per linear foot for DOM tubing and make my own. Especially if I dont really see myself using the bender for anything else. arrggg
  16. Cooper and Aluminum dont work very well together.. causes weird corrosion. You can get a grease at your local electrical supply house to prevent this
  17. well change option #2 looks like it would be the strongest... but how much money and how much time do you want to invest in this project? that will give you your answer pretty quick
  18. I found this bender on eBay and I gotta ask everyone for their opinion!! http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1-3-4-Tubing-Tube-Bender-SandRail-Rock-Crawler-Baja_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem2555e46bebQQitemZ160354823147QQptZMotorsQ5fAutomotiveQ5fTools I mean $260.. its a TUBE bender and not a pipe bender.. Im planning on 1.75" 0.120" DOM tubing.. and according to this diagram a 7" radius bend is all I need!! (thanks 74_5.0L_Z) Beats the $300 JD2 bender.. plus the $300 for a flippin die!!
  19. Try working at Home Depot.. i swear 9 out of 10 people are complete idiots and refuse to listen to the advice we recommend. (4 out of 5 associates are complete idiots too lol)
  20. well theres a bottomless pocket I'm blown away by this project.. and extremely jealous. Great work sir BTW - what seat are you using?
  21. hmm.. im surprised you didnt make a small hole to make draining your oil easier..
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