proxlamus©

this sounds silly.. but did you check the fuel filter?! when you pulled the tank and reconnected it, something may have lodged itself in the hose or filter. but it does sound like a timing problem

Well.. I'm getting ready to start buying the materials for my half cage.. and I'm running into a slight problem... Here are the required roll cage tubing requirements : (all mild steel) Rally America - Section 5.5 - DOM - 1.75 x .095 SCCA - Section 9.4.1 (appendix G) - DOM - 1500-2500 pounds - 1.5 x .095 Over 2500 pounds - 1.5 x .120 or 1.625 x .120 or 1.75 x .095 NASA CCR - Section - 11.4.7 - DOM or ERW - Under 2000 pounds - 1.5 x .120 2001 - 3500 pounds - 1.75 x .120 NHRA - NHRA's FAQ website DOM - 1.625 x .120 Hmm.. seems like if I ever want to explore and have a fun time in any of the sanctioned events.. I should probably go with a 1.75 x .120 DOM mild steel for any event!!??! My car is not a dedicated car to any sanctioned event.. just want to have fun.. but be SAFE What are most of you guys running?!

you.. *can* weld with flux.. but move incredibly quick and you can only do spot welds.. I would recommend gas for thinner sheet metal.. but its possible. you may have a lot of blow through so be patient

Oh its crazy easy with a air chisel.. it knocks off fairly large chunks at once.. just sucks the chisel is so small. Seems to be more time consuming with a heat gun and scraping.. no thanks.. I dont want to stand there for 10 minutes heating and scrape away using a section the size of the chisel. As for dry ice.. how large are the chunks that pop off?! The toughest part is getting through all that nasty OIL that accumulated on top of the undercoating.. sticks everything together. The chunks are much smaller when covered and saturated in grimy oil. Here is an idea how large the chunks are that pop off.

Guys.. I would highly recommend building a rotisserie.. it can be done for under $200 and it is extraordinarily helpful. trust me trust me. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=152566 << linky to my build thread for the rotisserie.

haha.. true true.. every single gas station stop.. someone loves to talk about it.. haha your car looks fantastic now Phil. your a lucky man

Well.. it all started while I was under the car getting ready for the bad dog frame rails.. first i removed the interior.. then while i was at it.. why not prep the interior for a roll cage/bar and get all that sound deadening out so I dont catch a fire.. then under the car I hated the grinding and tight spaces and the mess all over me.. and welding upside down with it dripping on you isnt fun.. so i built a rotisserie.. then.. i said WHILE I'M AT IT.. now the car is completely apart. UGH I wasn't happy before.. now I'm really not happy. This better be worth it

Well.. this sucks... Tools : Air Chisel and 4" angle grinder with the coarse knotted wire brush. Time : About 10 hours now (2-3 hrs a day) Goal : Seam weld the entire chassis, weld on new bad dog frame rails and put on a good undercoating Um.. I should of just sand blasted it.. but I'm cheap.. oh wtf

Lots of how to articles online.. and hundreds of books in body shops and the library. Its a lot of info to absorb.. and to be honest I doubt you'll get any hits on this site.

turbochargers act like mufflers... all the exhaust pressure waves and sound waves slamming into turbine blades spinning at several thousand RPM? best muffler in the world.. gives us the highest power boost imaginable =)

I need some advice from those of you with racing seats.. I know there are 3 types of material commonly used : Cloth Microsuede Leather I am thinking of buying some Corbeau FX1 Pro seats in Microsuede.. I am worried about UV fading and high wear spots.. if its anything like my microsuede couch and love seat at home.. im sold. For those of you with CLOTH Corbeau seats.. any fading or high wear spots?!

soo.. more pics the rear?

I had a mangled front passenger fender.. broken headlight bucket and bump in my rear quarter panel.. they totaled the car and I now have a salvaged title =(

really neat idea!! love it

2 years later the post is back to life?!

whoa.. love how you trimmed the rear pan!! can you take some more pics of that?! looks cool Great write up.. and the color looks great!

try this phil http://autospeed.com/cms/A_111348/article.html

I know this is bringing a dead thread back... but update?!

oh im getting excited for the final outcome!

omg z-ya! that looks great! hopefully ill be there in a few weeks!!

Well using Megasquirt I have my rev limiter set at 6,500 RPM for safety.. and its hitting a brick wall lol I have the option to kill the fuel, spark or both.. since I like loud bangs and fun exhaust notes I only cut the ignition which allows me to virtually flat shift keeping the turbo in full fury =P

Well.. i dunno if shutting off fuel would help keeping the turbo RPM's up.. and shutting off fuel reduces the combustion pressure and doesnt help in engine braking from my understanding. plus you dont get to shoot flames =) Im just sooo curious to see what F1 cars and true true race cars use during decel.. hurrmm *edit* Anti-lag is a littttllleee bit different.. WRC cars have an auxiliary air valve that feeds into the exhaust along with *negative* timing and lots of fuel.. but that KILLS the turbocharger after a few races.

So I've been doing some research on ignition timing.. In order to improve engine braking performance.. normally the timing is advanced.. then it dawned on me.. if I had a track car... it seems I should retard my ignition timing during high vacuum and low throttle to reduce the amount of engine braking and keep those hot exhaust gases flowing to keep the turbocharger spooling at high speeds?!? I can see on a road car this would be a bad idea.. and lots of unwanted exhaust burping and excess fuel burning... do people use this approach on track cars?! or am I straight trippin yo?

MSA and I/O port racing sell Autopower Roll Bars and are local to you!!

ya have to let me know if you'll sell a set in carbon fiber! oh oh!