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LanceVance

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Everything posted by LanceVance

  1. LanceVance
    Assuming this is a harnessed car, you can do like I did and eliminate the crush portion of the MOMO hub. I needed a small spacer (available from NRG) to make enough space for the horn wiring, but you may not even need this.
  2. LanceVance
    +1, any shots of the cutting board material after modification?
  3. LanceVance
    Here is a link to the blower motors pictured above: http://www.attwoodmarine.com/store/product/Turbo-3000
  4. LanceVance
    Didn't seem necessary to start a new thread when this one already existed, so please excuse the necroposting. I'm curious if there's been any updates on this? I'm planning on adding radiator ducting and an undertray when I pull the L24 to make way for the L28ET. I'm also planning on venting the inner fender wall to the wheel well, and using electric fans to pull the air out of the bay, as pictured in this thread. On that note, I recently had a chance to check out a NASCAR car up close and noticed that nearly every single piece of ducting had these inline blower motors (Attwood Turbo 3000 inline blowers). Having never seen these I looked them up and found them for sale everywhere, and surprisingly cheap (right around $20). These seem like a perfect candidate for an application such as this... cheap, apparently reliable enough for pro race teams (although this line of thinking may be flawed if they considered these wear items that they replaced after every race), easy to mount and wire. Here a few photos of the NASCAR setup: Thoughts?
  5. LanceVance
    Pallnet, I just sent a link to this page to a gentleman I met searching for the rear sump version of this pan. Hopefully he still has it and can get you taken care of.
  6. LanceVance
    I appreciate both the bump and the sentiment!
  7. LanceVance
    Thanks! I've got a stock pan that I'll be installing baffling on (assuming I cant find the LD pan) before engine assembly, but extra capacity was just something I viewed as icing on the cake, and a neat conversation piece. I figured that if I was going to be modifying a stock oil pan, I may as well start with the most ideal candidate... The aftermarket cast pans, while nice, are overkill. My money would go much further elsewhere on this build. I'm mostly wanting to make the ultimate combination of factory parts, although there is plenty of other brands and a few custom and aftermarket bits used where no OEM (of any brand) fit the bill. ...Did I mention that this is a slow build, and that I'm looking for those hard to find bits long before I need them? Long list of check boxes to fill before I need the pan sorted, so I can wait!
  8. LanceVance
    Glad to hear it. Too many people just junk the block after ripping out the crank...
  9. LanceVance
    Bump
  10. LanceVance
    This might help if you stick with the finned cover. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/59980-billet-braces-to-run-r200-finned-diff-cover-50-shipped/page-9
  11. LanceVance
    Still searching, unfortunately we determined Rick's pan was the Maxima style front sump. Thanks again Rick, if I hear of anybody needing a Maxima pan I'll send them your way!
  12. LanceVance
    Sounds good Rick, I just PM'd you my phone number if that's easier for you.
  13. LanceVance
    Got that flat wheel now... perhaps it's time to revisit the clamshell gauge pod before hanging up your hat? Not that I have any personal interest in that or anything.
  14. LanceVance
    Bump
  15. LanceVance
    Interested pending price and rotor requirements. Not really interested in having to machine rotors every time they need replacing... Is this front only? If it includes rear does it remove the parking brake functionality?
  16. LanceVance
    Looking for one of these decals for the restomod. Nissan part number is 22409-U9600, but most of the usual outlets either show it as NLA, or cancel the order shortly after it is placed. Not particularly interested in a used decal, although the measurements might be nice if I decide to reproduce them myself (I can produce the digital copy if somebody can print foil decals). Thanks all for looking.
  17. LanceVance
    So exhaust can exit via the side pipes whether the cutout is open or closed? Why bother with a cutout in this case? I've got a cutout on the STi, and can tell you from experience that running full open is not ideal for the anything but the track or hooning around backroads. Avoiding dirty looks at stoplights, every Honda thinking you want to race, and the unwanted attention of the law is the whole point of being able to redirect into a quiet stock style system right? All I'm seeing is that you expect the exhaust to make two rapid 90° turns when the cutout is open, instead of the less restrictive, shorter and straightforward path via the sidepipes. Not trying to knock your efforts, the exhaust looks great from a craftsmanship point of view, but I don't think you'll be getting the full benefit of the cutout in your current configuration. Realistically, to get the full range of control, you'll need a dual cutout setup with two Y pipes feeding the central (full to the back) dump.
  18. LanceVance
    Bump
  19. LanceVance
    Bump
  20. LanceVance
    Looks great! When did NRG come out with a hub adapter? I had to have someone modify a MOMO piece to place the wheel comfortably with a quick release... Either way, looks like you will have more gauge clearance!
  21. LanceVance
    Should have a set, let me know if 88dangerdan can't help you out.
  22. LanceVance
    Not sure about your stock sensor, but this is the sensor and wiring schematic I'm planning on using: http://www.how-to-build-hotrods.com/electric-fuel-pump.html
  23. LanceVance
    Bump
  24. LanceVance
    Bump
  25. LanceVance
    Anybody else reminded of Clarkson's MK2 GTI from Top Gear?
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