LanceVance

Just got around to doing this today, replacing a universal chrome hotrod style mirror that the PO of my recently purchased 73' had installed. I used a few different techniques than Socorob, so I figured I'd offer my advice to anyone thinking of doing this in the future. First thing, I used a dremel to cut most of the way through the housing and then used a soldering iron to melt/cut the last bit. This saved me the stress of possibly gouging the delicate silvering, and yet I was able to press right up to the glass. Separating the halves was very easy this way, though I'd only recommend doing this somewhere well ventilated. Second change was how I installed the mirror into the housing. Socorob is absolutely correct when he said this is hard to do. What worked for me was pressing the mirror in by hand, just to get at least one of the long sides into the groove. I then placed the assembly mirror side down on a soft towel on my garage floor. At this point, I took another towel, folded it repeatedly until I had a nice inch thick pillow. ...here's where things got a little nerve-racking! Using the 'pillow' I had made, I gave the housing 3 or 4 firm, but cushioned taps with a mallet. Presto! Mirror was snapped into place in under a minute, no water necessary. Thanks again Socorob for doing all the leg work figuring this out. I walked into the JY today with zero tools and walked out ten minutes later with two mirrors. Total cost was $14 .

Have a photo? I may have a chance to stop by my 2+2 (currently in storage) tomorrow and have a look.

+1. I just bought a nice running 240z to replace the fargone 2+2 that I had been hoarding parts for. Installing my custom quick release and MOMO wheel was step 1, but gauges are in the not so distant future!

What year STi? I've got a 2011 and can take measurements.

I can appreciate most anything regardless of purpose so long as it's executed well, you've built one stylish tire grinder! Any more photos of the interior? Looks like you've got a lot going on but the photos don't show everything clearly.

I love the small stripe along the leading edge of the hood; I'll be stealing that one...

Love how clean you've managed to keep the wiring. I'm curious where you sourced the injector pigtails with the rubber boots. I've seen a few, but they are much longer than those you've got there (Though trimming them is hardly an issue).

If you are only really looking to pass inspection (i.e. track car only), and those chilly morning starts are rare then perhaps you can just clamp a pair of 'truck-stop special' 12v hair dryers to the the existing ducts and wire them on a switch. Simple, lightweight, and allows for the removal of everything but the two cowl ducts. Only big drawback is noise and less than stellar performance...

I'm an oddball, I'd like glossy on the bottom half and no finish on the top (planning on flocking this bit to match the dashboard).

Immediately made me think of the sculptures from Beetlejuice! Might just deserve a place on a shelf?

Why not use the stock ducts and two truck-stop-special hair dryers? Might be even lighter...

If you don't find some place local to you, David P. (member name 1tuffZ) might be able to help you. I want to say he is in Rochester?

Afraid I'm no good with the Mac/'i' products... Perhaps someone more familiar could chime in? I've always told the wife (who made the jump to Mac some time ago, and still struggles to do simple tasks to this day) that apple programers all must take hallucinogenics with their morning coffee...

What operating system are you using to upload photos?

V07 is the cast number on LD cranks.

Have you considered ducting cool air into the inner cone of a dual cone filter? Nice cool air force fed into the inner cone while at speed, and zero restriction on what the outer cone can pull in sounds like it would give you a reasonable compromise between the two options you mentioned.

Don't know anything about adjusting it for different motors, but here is a photo of the backside of my tach.

Nice find! That would look great on a Vella Rosa kitted Z.

The time and effort shows through in the quality. Excellent work brother!

Wrinkle black. Save the red for the go-fast goods, not the everyday bits.

I appreciate the notion, though I've hardly done anything to warrant extra effort on your part! I've gone out and examined my hardware and realized why this problem wasn't apparent during my (albeit poor) attempts at making a clamshell gauge pod. I'm using a flat MOMO wheel on an NRG quick release, and a shortened MOMO hub adapter. This combination provides an extra 2 to 2.5 inches of forward clearance. Dished wheels, such as the stock piece obviously don't offer this extra wiggle room... I'm not sure what the demographics are regarding those who would buy this from you, but I'd say people using aftermarket wheels and hub adapters would be around 25%? I'm just guessing and may be overly generous in my assessment, but then again I'm not sure what sort of numbers justify making each variation... I was just struck with the vision of the suede MOMO wheel, brushed silver quick release hooked up along with your clamshell in CF (lower half) and black flock (top half). Kicker is I have all the flocking materials ready to go. Did I mention the DZ-Start pushbutton ignition with the silver 370Z bezel and red GTR button? So much sexy packed in such a small space; a symphony of monochromatic textures with the odd splash of color. Mmmmm.... I'm glad to offer what assistance I can, hopefully more will begin to chime in with their ideas and suggestions as well. Thanks to you for lending your talent and effort to the Z community, I know plenty of others want to see these go into production as well.

Ouch... Time to find a low profile boost gauge that matches the entire set of AutoMeters I've got. ...Though, I'm not opposed to cutting the studs and using a spacer to bring the gauge forward. I've got a quick release and short hub adapter giving me plenty of space. Much to ponder!

Simple solution would be to make the back of the pod flat ( in relation to the gauge face). Less interference from the dash, and those with AutoMeters could simply drill holes in the back for the studs. This eliminates the need for the black mounting piece. Not sure if the studs will interfere with the dash, but I know I'd be trimming and using some black dome head nuts either way...

Hmmm... Perhaps fitting a cup style gauge holder would allow for you to tweak the positioning to be compatible with both early and late dashes (and steering wheels). You could then use your super molding clay stuff to fill in the gaps? Should make for the smallest possible profile as well.

Glad to help! Can't wait to see what you come up with, given the apparent quality of the center console I'm sure this will come out equally or even better.