LanceVance

I've been eyeing a solution made for the aircraft industry that seems to be much simpler. It's an air/oil separator that would be installed inline the standard crankcase vent to intake manifold flow path; nifty part is, there is no drain tube, and the condensed blow by returns to the block via the crankcase tube. Proper filtration, along with a reasonable oil change regimen should prevent any issues from the blow by sludge that people like to show off in their catch cans. http://www.airflow-systems.com/air-oil-separators/

Looking good! What are the plans for attaching the two halves of the clamshell?

I've picked up, chopped up, and thrown out a few different cheap eBay pods. Everything's footprint was unnecessarily large and looked too much like an afterthought when modified to sit atop the clamshell. My recommendation? Take the gauge you've got to your local hardware store and see what PVC fittings it will fit in. Cut it as small as possible considering gauge depth/wires/etc. and use filler to make the shape acceptable and continuous with the clamshell's existing shape. Burying the front of the gauge into the existing clamshell while raising the rear may be necessary to get a good angle as well... Another reason to use PVC instead of a premade pod!

The 260 version looks to be the same as mine (75' 280).

One gauge, sized 2 1/16th would be ideal for me and I doubt you'd want to go with anything larger or more than one considering the positioning of the tach/speedo.

Not sure what is missing from yours Nelsonian, although I do see some differences between the early and late versions. I'm curious if these are interchangeable, or if they would require two versions? Here is mine: More than willing to donate to the cause, if you want it.

I've got a 75' clamshell with a small cosmetic crack. Perhaps better than sacrificing one in good condition?

Came up with option number 3! This offers the most concealment, and puts the sensor all the way at the back of the head: Any reason not to put the sensor in the 35mm core plug at the back of the head? Obviously some care will have to be taken to ensure there are no leaks, but this seems like it checks all the boxes.

I'm just starting down that road: Plan is to mock assemble everything in the engine bay, and then send all the steel to the plater before final assembly. Fortunately, I prefer aluminum in its raw cast appearance, so I've forgone all that drama...

Following up on this, looks like this is the company who is producing it now: http://www.shineseal.com Edit: DOH! Already posted this info on post #6! Oh well, shameless forgetfulness bump. I will probably look into purchasing this rather than do any coatings on each and every but and bolt. Perhaps for some of the larger parts I'll do a clear powder coat.

Offset will be difficult for me, mainly due to everything being apart and in boxes, but the OD is almost 7" exactly. OD here is almost 6" exactly, I'll work on photos tonight. Anything particular you need an angle of? This one is mounted to the engine, on the engine stand so this is much easier!

I recall someone posting that they were able to fit the Taurus fan as a puller by swapping shrouds with an Escort. I've yet to be able to go to the junkyards and pick up the shroud to test it out, but it might be worth your while to check it out? Edit: Initially said Ford Escape, when it is actually a Ford Escort (91'-02' non-ZX2). Source: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/43060-new-find-escort-fan-shroud/

This is in regards to a vented rotor conversion, but it still applies: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/119779-issue-replacing-s12w-caliper/ Pretty recent too, perhaps this is going to become a common issue when parts store calipers are used? Sure junkyard calipers can be crusty, but OEM quality can be much more reliable. Rebuild kits are cheap...

I've got something very similar at 60.75" from the absolute outermost points. Edit: There is a good likelihood that I've got a 260 bumper, perhaps someone with a known 240 could measure to compare?

My bumper is off, PM me measurement across from end to end and I'll compare with my OEM piece.

Might see if you can have a new one made. See link below: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/113544-240z-horn-button-refab/page-3

Wish this had been around before I started collecting and modifying the 81' ZX crank trigger hardware. I wonder if that sensor mount would work with my trigger wheel... Very similar positioning. If you'll sell just the sensor mount in raw aluminum I might just have to try it out! Edit: If it did work with my trigger wheel, you'd have an option for 3 pulleys!

Agreed! This would be useful to just about everyone, from stock to the most extreme swaps. A Euro/BRE style spoiler for the 2+2 model would be great as well.

Enginerd81, Have you found any spoiler options for your 2+2? I've been searching for a one piece ducktail for ages with no luck...

I would also like to mention that I am trying to avoid stacking T fittings. This is a turbo car, the temp sender will be in the oil pan, and the pressure sender (for the gauge) will be inline to the turbo where it crosses behind the engine).

Looking for some affirmation of a theory I have regarding my oil cooler / pressure switch configuration. I would like to mount a fuel pump kill switch where this Allen plug (see bottom of photo below) is currently installed. This is in the flow path of the pre-cooler line. Unfortunately, there is no such convenient port on the post cooler side, which would see a more immediate drop in pressure should any catastrophic damage occur to the cooler (did I mention I'm planning on running a Bosozoku mounted RX7 oil cooler). I'm under the impression that this location should see an almost immediate drop in pressure, sufficient enough to drop below the sensor's trigger point of around 7psi, HOWEVER I have a nagging fear that this location, being just before the leak, could potentially be the last place in the flow path to drop below the trigger point? Any input from those more knowledgeable than I would be greatly appreciated! Incase anyone is curious, this is the sensor I'm planning on running, along with a wiring schematic: Sensor (Standard Motor Products PS-64)

You can use the factory hold downs (though it is not necessary) if you want. Stack two regular hose washers together and you're good to go. I've tried this with black nitrile washers (same resting measurements as the red rubber washers) and wasn't able to use them, due to their larger stretched OD. With the palnet brackets in place, these serve mostly a cosmetic purpose.

The question was not "Are the 240z (L24) and the 280z (L28) motors or radiators different, but will the 280 rad fit in a 240. It will. I leave it to the OP to research further and decide if it's a good idea or not...

If you'd really like to start smaller, why not do a steering column clamshell? Something with a gauge provision centered in between the tach/speedo would garner a lot of interest from those with everything from stock(ish) to wild drivetrain swaps; it would also provide a nice segue into center consoles in terms of group buys. A successful small scale exercise lends credence to later large scale exercises (such as dashboards). A cup holder from a vehicle readily available from junkyards might be better than fiberglass in terms of production quality/difficulty and durability.

More balanced? *cough*branding*cough*