74Adam

That's pretty cool looking. You know, this is a simple solution but I simply took out the green filters and upgraded the stock lights from 3.4 W to the 4.0W bulbs that H4lights sells. That alone made a big difference and I'm happy with my guage lights. But those LED's are sharp I must say.

and stop yelling

My God, how can all that sell for so little?

Impressive, young Skywalker. What kind of strut tower bar is that?

I didn't realize there were a bunch of people on this forum getting ready to buy a Mercedes. Good thing you caught that ad.

Wow, that's a steal. Too bad that's not where I'm going with my car. Good luck with your new motor project.

Thanks Steve.

Hey Steve, you responded to this post I had made a few months ago: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=107466 Where did you get that idle set screw? The 240SX TB I got has a crappy set screw (part of it is broken off and it is a pain to deal with). So, I'm at the Nissan place yesterday getting a slave cylinder and I ask the guy for a set screw. He informs me that Nissan only sells the ENTIRE THROTTLE BODY. I was incredulous. I have already been to the hardware store and the thread pitch on that set screw is way too fine. Thanks, -Adam

That's cool, I was just curious. Maybe when it's done you can do a write up if you feel so inclined? Good luck.

I saw your post where you had done a Miata PS swap but were switching to a Subaru Forrester rack. Seems you were having some kind of trouble with the connections hitting the crossmember (with the Subaru). Anyway, just wondering how it turned out and if you're pleased with it? thanks, -Adam

For those that have put in a cable linkage and therefore no longer have that hook thing to increase idle when the A/C kicks on I was wondering what other solutions you have found (assuming you did something). I figured it would be easy to find some kind of bypass valve that could be triggered when the compressor kicks on. Just wanted to get some ideas. thanks

Does anyone know the situation with Bob? I made a post on zcar and someone said they had heard he had a heart attack. I have called several times and only get his answering machine. Of course, he never kept regular hours anyway. Just wondering. thanks

Guys, I don't think that MSA price is correct. In my most recent catalog they are $149.95, and they have been around that price in the past catalogs. I would still get the AZC part however.

Bartman, so that cylindrical housing to the right of the evaporator is the blower fan? It looks like it basically connects directly to the evaporator. Neat.

I agree that it looks more like an exhaust issue. I actually like the stock ride height and, personally, would raise what you have 3/4" maybe 1". That is totally subjective however. I was about to ask if you are in love with the idea of twice pipes, then I read your sig...lol. Still, what would be the smallest single pipe you could run? 3"? 3.25"? Could you get more clearance with a single pipe? Might be worth looking at. P.S. Bartman......nice.

I wonder if Dave at Arizona z-car has thought about doing this? He obviously has plenty of experience in making suspension pieces. He probably figures not enough people would spend that kind of money to be worth his time.

I was thinking about having a rubber boot made for the AFM to TB now that I have the 60 mm TB. I know some people have been able to get the stock boot to fit, but I don't see how. I could use some generic ducting but I would like to keep the fast idle operation so I need that outlet port as well. Does anyone know of a company that does this sort of thing? I can't find much online. I may just be SOL. thanks

Hey guys, thanks for the responses. zcarnut: First of all, I LOVE your clean setup. Someone owns a sandblaster...lol! I have the FSM, read alot of it, and feel like I have a decent understanding of how the circuit works. On your setup you routed the return line through the cold start injector. I will, at some point, get an aftermarket engine management system where I can use the main six injectors for the cold start function (like I assume you are doing?). For now however, I have to use the actual CSI. As Mario mentioned, I could drill through the spacer. I have one of Pallnet's pieces made out of lexan, I believe. I bet I could come up with something. Another question on your setup: My understanding is that with the stock TB, when the engine is idling, the throttle plate is completely closed and all the air getting into the intake goes through the air regulator valve. Is this correct? So on your setup you sort of have a "compromise", so to speak. You control the idle with a screw on the throttle lever but still have an independent "air path". I never considered doing that but it makes so much sense. Last question. I tried but wasn't able to get the stock rubber boot between the air flow meter and the TB to fit, so I used some ducting from an aircraft supply company. Worked well but of course I lost the outlet port for the hose that goes to the air regulator. What boot is that from that you are using? I'm guessing that you aren't using your AFM so I wouldn't be able to do the same thing you have done, but it obviously fits the TB like a glove. Sorry for the long post but I really appreciate the help. It's fun learning about this stuff. -Adam

I just completed the 240SX TB swap and am very pleased with it except for the elimination of the fast idle. Of course I knew this going in but I wasn't sure how much of a difference it would make. If it gets around the mid 50 degree range it takes two or three turns of the key to get it to start and stay idling. If it didn't start doing that until it got down into the 30's I probably would be OK with it. So I was wondering if anyone knows how to incorporate fast idle into this swap? I have a 4 cylinder Frontier (same TB, I think) and thought I would take a look at it to see how it's fast idle works. I figured that if it operates independently of the ECU there might be a way to make it work on the Z. Just wanted some thoughts on the subject. thanks -Adam

UPDATE.....UPDATE......UPDATE This is interesting. Last time I posted I was about to change all the bulbs in the rear light housing (3 each side). Well, I did that and cleaned the sockets (they weren't that bad). Well, it still wouldn't work. At this point I figure I will just have to have at looked at (since I'm a pussy...lol). Anyway, concurrent to all this I have also been putting on a 240SX TB and I had removed and reinstalled my dash in order to do some gauge modifications. Well, some friends were in town Saturday and demanded that I drive the car to where they were staying so they could see the car. So, I spent Friday night getting loose pieces put back together and tidying up the TB install. Finally I take it out that night: Pull out onto the street and take off. The brighter gauge lights are FANTASTIC (I took out the green lenses), speedometer squealed for 30 seconds and then settled down. No problems with the throttle body, in fact it is working great. Then I get to a stop sign and pull LEFT (the bad side) onto the busier street, flip the signal out of habit and, you guessed it, the blinkers worked. I don't think it even occured to me until I was going straight. I thought I was imagining things. So I take another left and, sure enough, they work. They have been working ever since. Go figure.....lol. What is that Police album?...."Ghost In the Machine"....ha ha ha

Guy, I think I will do that (might as well). So, are you guys saying that there can be ENOUGH power to turn the light on but NOT enough to trigger the flasher unit? Man, my mind just doesn't work very well when it invloves electricity....lol. I know this is really basic stuff.

It seems like they are from what I remember, but I will check when I get home. Hell, maybe it wouldn't be a bad idea to replace all the bulbs and clean the connections anyway. Let me ask, was this done by design to act as some kind of "warning system"? On my Frontier, for example, when a signal bulb goes out the dash display blinks twice as fast.

"Sounds like either the front or rear right turn bulb is blown/discounted/loose wire. For the flasher to function, it requires enough current to flow through it to switch on and off. One bulb does not draw enough current for this to happen." But the bulbs do come on, they just aren't blinking. I'll check again, but I'm pretty sure all the bubls, front and rear, work.

thanks guys. Datsunan- Sorry, I should have mentioned that. The left blinkers do work as well as the hazards. All exterior lights work in these modes. the turn signal switch on the column is NEW, I mean out of the OEM box new. I suppose it is possible that there could be a defect, but it seems unlikely. Mario- that sounds like a good test, I'll try it when I get home and report back later. Good grief, I'll feel like an idiot if I spent this money on new parts only because of a contact (or lack of one)...lol. Crap, something just occured to me that I should have mentioned. When I flip the switch for the right signal, the light actually comes on, it just isn't blinking. That seems really odd. It obviously is getting a signal of some kind. Now remember, I replaced the flasher relay with a new one.

Why am I stumped? Because I have now replaced the turn signal switch, the flasher relay and the hazard switch with brand new parts. Yes, the flasher relay is OEM, not some autozone crap. I have replaced the bulbs as well. Is there anything else obvious to look at or is it down to checking wires? thanks, oh, this is a 78.