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innerware

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Everything posted by innerware

  1. Look in the classifieds for here and zcar.com I am pretty sure people are selling them. And from what I know (which isn't much) the s12-8's will not fit the vented rotor. Go to modernmotorsport and buy his 4x4 package or have someone make spacers. Otherwise if you use the s12-8 then you keep your stock rotor, which is what should be upgraded in the first place.
  2. you are all an inspiration. I started cutting out this very area today on my project car. I wouldn't had had the guts if not for all the brave before me.
  3. I am going to wager a guess. Since it does it when downshifting and going into reverse, you are putting load onto the driveshaft greater than normal and or reversing its direction. The sound can that you have sounds llike you have a loose (worn) universal joint in your driveshaft. Other reasons for a clunk in the rear are bad univerals at the halfshafts and diff mount. Although I don't think what you are describing sounds like that.
  4. Aux, where in the Bay Area did you buy harbor frieght stuff?
  5. All the politics aside. I have a friend with a remote control helicopter. Definately not for a kid. Would decapitate someone real quick. Those little hydro boats are freaking cool!!! Looks like it would be way easier to learn too than flying a heli.
  6. OK so we all agree if not prepped right bondo will absorb moisture. But if prepped correctly it is fine. I have never seen a problem with moisture causing bubbles on a properly prepped area. Mix it right, let it cure right, prep area correctly, and paint over it with a barrier paint (non spray can primer) and you should be ok. If the area has a hole make sure you seal the back of it, or paint the back once bondo'ed. Is this safe to say?
  7. It is well worth it. I love the mag. Awesome articles and pictures. I like to drool over all that others have done.
  8. JTR radiator is awesome. That is my car in the picture and it has been running like that now for over 2 years without any problems. Mike Knell makes good stuff. Nice zinced brakets too, I never painted them and they still look good.
  9. I ordered the 15x7 rewinds. I have heard they came with the perfect Z offset and just told the man what year car etc they were for. I am hoping they will do the rest. Otherwise I guess the zero offset is what you are looking for and what I hope they will send. I have also heard that the 300zx rotor with toyo brakes will clear no problem. That is the hope anyway
  10. Once bondo is cured or any polyester resin type material is cured, it is cured. There will be no bubbling at all. Concrete can't bubble after it is cured right? What he is probably refering to is when applying the bondo over a hole there is a chance you smooth in an air bubble or pocket, thus leaving material that is not soo dense in spots. A good way to get material into holes is to inject them with a plastic syringe. You could also squeegie the material in from the back. Either way cured resin is cured. Just make sure there is ample surface texture for it to grip etc.
  11. 2003z thanks for the heads up. I just resent all the info. Hopefully wheels will follow.
  12. whoops, 1977 stock 280z
  13. I double that. Get a restraining order on them too. Fight fire with fire. So sorry to hear that. Good luck
  14. why oh why? An accord rear, an integra front...AYE! What some people think is nice. He should have to pay someone to take that car.
  15. Should i get a stock replacement pump, new or rebuilt, or is there a better or cheaper one from say summit for the inline 6? I bench tested it and got nothing, so I am assuming it is bad. Thanks, Kyle
  16. Thanks guys. I probably won't want to spend the money on a powdercoating setup. Even though it isn't much, it just seems like more of a pain in the arse to deal with. I have used zero rust and like it. I could always use that as a base coat and then put a two part epoxy on top I guess if I wanted more of a gloss. Thanks for the input.
  17. Ok so what I have found in a search for painting suspension parts was: POR15 and powdercoating. I would like to do the work myself and not pay for the powder coating. I have a spray booth and all the spray equiptment at work. I have used por15 before and know that a bunch of you don't like it. It can delaminate if not prepped right and it isnt color safe with the sun. Do you all just recommend a 2 part primer? Epoxy, or Urethane? Should I just go to my local auto paint place? Any advice is great. Thanks
  18. I thought of draining the old gas. But that is a pain in the ars. I wasn't sure if the gage was working or not until yesterday. It didn't come with a battery. After I gave it power the gage didn't seem to work, or I was completely out of gas. I added 4 gallons of new 89 octane from 76 and one of those gas treament bottles. My hopes were that I could save what was in there and run the car a bit. (And the gage does work.) Then plan on replacing the filters again. I have never dropped a gas tank before so that seemed daunting. Hopefully it is just the pump. We shall soon see. Thanks again all, Kyle
  19. thanks. I will recheck the connections. We actually pulled the starter and I cleaned the terminals a bit. But I will make double sure. I used some 320 grit and made them shine. All the connections really need going over in this car. I will also try the jump method with the fuel pump. We did this with the starter before because at first it wouldn't crank. I cleaned everything and put it back on and it turned over. I'll post what I find. But it sure is nice to have a car on jack stands that doesn't need to be a daily driver. And fl327, I am putting the Toyota brakes on this car instead of my 78 that we worked on. I'll be doing the suspension again too on the 77. I'll keep you posted on the progress and if I need some help I will yell real loud. How's the new project yourself? Thanks all, Kyle
  20. Hey all. So I am finally having some time to work on the 77Z I bought a few weeks ago. It sat for 7 years covered up and I am trying to start it to see what the engine is like. Supposedly rebuilt head 20k before it sat and 140k on whole car. I put some oil in each cylinder (spark plug location), changed the fuel filter, oil filter and oil. It really looked like it was givin a tune up right before it was covered and forgotten. It has good spark and cranks beautifully. First question. There is a small delay right when I turn the key to start before it cranks. Not like my 78 car that is my daily driver which starts right away. Why? Ignition relay or switch? Second question. I have no fuel. I pulled the fuseable links and tested them and they were fine. I pulled the pump wires and tested on acc. and got nothing. I will try again tomorrow. I should get 12volts across the pump leads when turning it to acc. right before start right? I can't hear it prime when I turn it to acc either. Where should I look? I think this is the problem for sure. Everything else is ok so far. But no fuel. Is there another place to check? The fuel pump relay? Any suggestions are greatly appreciated. Thanks again, Kyle
  21. If this is the way to jack a car, which is what I have been doing thankfully, then where is the best place to put jack stands that the car will sit in for a long time? My 77 project Z will be a member of Jack Stand Racing soon and I would like to put it on the stands correctly. Thanks
  22. Vin, nice garage!! I'd love to have one that big with that many Z's. Just Awesome
  23. Yeah if you just stopped coming in they would stop paying you. That simple. Your social security number wouldn't be recieving any pay and that it how they know.
  24. should codeman know what the personal joke is between you two? Is it your old 75 fl327? You guys aren't making much sense aye
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