innerware

as far as I know the car has never overheated. I did have about that long ago or more a heat sink problem where it would be hot right after restart if I restarted it within 10 minutes. That lasted a little while then just cured itself. It has been such a champ since then. Never getting too hot (middle of temp gauge) even in traffic etc. Well, lets hope it isn;t too bad. Is it cheaper to get it rebuilt or swap it with an allready rebuilt motor? I know it would be certainly quicker to do the latter. Thanks

Thanks, I looked at the filler cap and all was clean. The smoke was definately whitish that came out the back. Although my buddy says he is pretty sure it was because I am running rich. He says the exuast smelled rich. It does look like the block is darker above the oil filter (moist) and I am probably going to need to replace the oil pan filter (small leak). But I can't see any drips or nothing when the car is running. I just noticed some coolant pool at the hold downs for the steering rack (driver side). The radiator is a JTR one with new hoses. I drove it home today and there was the same old power it has had. At least it didn't feel sluggish. My temp stayed right at mid point or just slightly below. I'll let you all know how I fair. But if there are any tips etc that I am missing let me know. Thanks again, Kyle

thanks. Yeah I just don't know. My oil looks fine and my coolant does too. I will do a compression test and see if my numbers are consistant. I need to smog it soon so I was going to get a pre test done anyway. I'll let my mechanic look at it then too. I won't drive it untill then.But if the pump gasket is going where should i see fluid coming from? I didn't notice any from around the pump area.

Ok so I had a co worker look at it and he thinks the smoke is fuel related. Regardless I am leaking fluid and can't seem to see where. There is some fluid build up on the steering rack bushing clamps, but really can't see where it is coming from. Why would I be running righ all of a sudden? Is it related to the coolant issue? Thanks again, I should just take it in anyway and have a pro look at it. But I thought I would ask incase it is something I could look at too.

Ok so I was eating a bit of coolant as of last week. Couldn't find the problem on my 180k mile stock 78 280z engine. That is untill this morning. I have been checking for leaks and fluid drops everytime I drove it. 6 miles each way from home to work. Well this morning I checked after I got in to work and saw and smelled coolant. Can't tell where it is coming from so I turn the engine back on and look for leaks. Well, now I notice a bunch of white smoke. I am thinking headgasket or cracked head. What else could it be right? Since the engine is old I don't think it is worth the time in doing the head gasket. I don't drive hard so I don't think the head is warped or cracked. But the real question is this: A guy on zcar is selling his 78 280z engine as follows: Datsun 280Z rebuilt motor for sale - L28 Created 06/16/05 Description Rebuilt motor for sale. Decided not to finish the restore project on my '75 280Z(Car is sold). Here is a list of work done and new parts. L28 block w/ N42 head -New gaskets (whole set, including crankshaft seals) -New freeze plugs in block -New Oil pump, Water pump & Timing chain -Rebuilt Crankshaft -New Main Bearings -New Rod Bearings -Cylinders bored 2mm + honed -Flathead Pistons for more compression (stock is about 8.3:1, now closer to low 10's:1) -Head was baked to take out any warpage, then cleaned and resurfaced -New valve guides and valve seals -New performance camshaft with higher lift & duration (Intake .441; Exhaust .441) -Reassembled to recommended torque specifications Engine has been garage stored and well taken care of. $1700 worth of work done including parts(I have receipts). Comes with intake manifold, injectors, exhaust manifold, and throttle body. Asking $1100/OBO Located in Santa Cruz, CA State California Phone Price $1100.00 If your still with me, and it is still for sale... Does this sound ok to you all? It is close enough to me (2hour drive) Should I buy it? Is the price good? What is this head combo good for? Are the rebuilds he did good? Pros and cons? All opinions are more than welcome. Thanks ever so much as always, Kyle

If I didn't have the tmplate (and I looked on the net, hard to find) I would trace the shape of the speaker. First cut a hole in a sheet of cardboard a bit bigger than the tweeter. Put this on a bucket or something. Next tape a sheet of paper on the cardboard. Cut out the same hole. Place the speaker upside down on the paper so the tweeter is in the hole. Trace an outline on the paper with a pencil. Now you have the outside area of the speaker. Mark where the mount holes are too. Next you will want to offset the line enough so the speaker will fit and still have enough room for the mounting screws to grab. I would scan into autocad and redraw then offset. But that is me. I love autocad and I am fast. Either way that should get you a pretty good template. Try it out on some cardboard. If it is too tight then trim it up. Good luck. And if you want scan the drawing and I'll redraw it in cad and send you the file. I can also laser cut a template out of plex if you want. Just pay for shipping.

yeah it can be a pain in the ***. But it is directly behind the cylinder at the back of the drum.

sweet ride. Did you build it to own and drive/show or to sell? It sure is a nice looking truck. I wish I could get half as many projects done as you do. Nice job!!

nice pic Aux. Nothing like a picture saying it all.

He said he worked for Ford. Someone actually gave this moron a job?

Kimi, that looks awesome. I take it you blended them into the hood. Really clean and sharp. Nice Z

Has anyone used http://www.risingsunengines.com/index.php as a source for a longblock? If I need a replacement or go that route I was wondering what you all thought. And if so, which year inline 6 is better. Also, will all the extraneous parts from my 78 fit on say a 81 non turbo, like say, oil pump, water pump, starter, injectors,etc? Thanks, Kyle

possibly it is just the battery. It has happened to me pretty much the same way. If you can push start it, then it is probably the starter though.

OK so all has been well on the old stock motor( 78 280Z). My plan has been for some time to add another motor when I move and have a garage and it isn't my daily driver. So, I have noticed lately (last few days) that my coolent got low ( resevoir tank was almost empty). It is a fairly new ( one year or so) JTR radiator with no visable leaks. I don't think that is why I lost some coolant. Now my oil looks good etc. and I don't have any visable exhaust. Why could it have gone low on coolant? That was the first question. Second one. I might need a rebuild before I can get a turbo motor or v8 (still undecided) and work is really busy and I have no free time. What would be a guestimate on a price for a quick rebuild (rings, head gasket etc) in the Oakland area? My worries is that I am burning coolant but real slow. That would mean a headgasket right? The engine is also old since the last rebuild. It has 310k on the car and about 160K on the engine since last rebuild. I have taken great care of it but the P.O. sucked. I have had it like 40 thousand miles, which I put on in 4 years. I really don't drive it much and I certainly don't race it. I'm no grand ma either, but I don't abuse it. What would be everyones suggestions on what to do? Should I buy a used engine and rebuild that one and then swap them? Should I bring it to a shop? Thanks much as always, Kyle

This is just a guess mind you, but I think that with the louvers off it will allow more air to leave the engine bay. Won't by moving air over the opening be like having your windows open. I know that with an exhaust leak in the rear with the windows open you pull air into the car through that opening in the back. I would guess that the same would be true with the hood. Plus we are all forcing a ton of air into the engine bay because of the large front on these cars. Unless you put a scoop on the vent air should leave. But be careful when it rains.

Ok so the deal is still on for sure. I just got emailed back. This is the info that is required to make the purchase. Wheel desired: Type of car: Class Run: NASA Region: NASA membership number: NASA membership expiration date: a Sticker color: Credit card: Shipping Address: So just to clarify before I send off the info. rewinds at 15x7 will fit toyota large s12w calipers and fit regular tokico blues struts and springs. I am pretty sure all I have read says so but I have never bought wheels before and would just like to triple confirm. I am so excited. I hope others are getting this deal too. Thanks again, Kyle

I am not sure of the size but check out JTR's website. His radiator will work with both the inline 6's and V8's well. I have one in my stock 280z and it is awesome.

for the trouble it will save you. Get a factory service manual for the car. Courtesy Nissan of texas has them on cd. They are a bit pricy but well worth it. Just make sure you make a back up cd. They can be found in book form too but are old.

Well first off welcome. Second there are a few things to know about the site. 1st thing is the search feature. There will be many a question answered by searching. I know it helps me a lot. That said, the Z for me is the best car in the world. Well not really but I love it. So congrats on the future purchase. For parts new. Try http://www.zcarparts.com/store/merchant.mvc that is the website for Motorsport Auto. Also get a catalogue from Victoria British. They have a ton of stuff too for the early Z car. Used parts. Ebay is a good place. Also the Z barn which is http://www.zbarn.com/ They have a bunch of used stuff. Also try http://www.zparts.com With this info and the info on this site you should be on your way to having fun with the car. Good luck, Kyle Oh and I rebuilt my rear brakes and it was pretty easy. I didn't need the springs etc replaced but had them just in case and bought them from Victoria British. Some day I will put disks on the back. But for now the drums are fine.

Oh and just to clarify as well. The Rewinds at 15x7 will fit the larger Toyota brake caliper upgrade in front right? I do believe others have said that but if this deal goes through I just wan't to make sure. Thanks and I can't wait to hear from them, Kyle

This is just awesome. I just became a member and emailed konig about the offer. I certainly don't care about stickers. It would make my car fast. But the price is great and I have been looking for wheels, and have loved the rewinds.

Personally don't worry about squeeking bushings. Mine for my rear sway bar squeeked for a couple weeks then seated properly and stopped. There might be places to buy those but I don't know. The energy bushings are easy to come by and really do make a difference. Good luck on the new purchase

let me know what comes of it. Also if you like it and can trust him post up his number and name. Thanks a bundle

I am actually looking for similiar information. I need my driver side rear quarter replaced and was looking for someone to recomend a shop that can do the work. There are so many body shops around and I don't want to get screwed. I am planning on buying the rear quarter from Zparts in Richmond CA unless someone knows of a better place for that body panel. I am in Oakland CA and thought this thread could help both of us since we are close enough to each other. Thanks and sorry about the hijack, Kyle

are they all speaking german or are they speachless and all their responses are just garble. WOW. who would have thought there could be room. Hell of a transmission brace too.