Enzo250gto

Hello from Australia, back in the early 80's I was a distributor for Normalair Garret turbo kits. The crown kit is similar to what we used. SU and CD Stromberg carbs were the preferred carburettor for a drawn through system. Being a constant velocity carburettor which had a butterfly and a piston. Air velocity raised the piston which had the correct turbo needle fitted to it for correct fuel air mixture. If you stood on the accelerator and the butterfly was fully opened the air flow was restricted till the piston started to move up and allow more fuel/air to enter the turbo. To keep the compression ratio at about 7.5:1 a decompression plate was fitted between two head gaskets. Boost was limited. Carbon seals are necessary because a fuel/air mixture is being drawn into the turbo, unlike a blown through system or EFI with the fuel being injected after the turbo. We ran SU's and CD Strombergs on our street cars and usually DCOE Webers on race cars. The Mikuni HSR are a great carby. I have a pair on my 260Z. By the way. With a draw through system, don't use an intercooler. The metanol injection will keep the fuel/air cooler. We were new to turbo's in the early 80's so we used reservoirs with water and methylated with a windscreen washer pump to inject through the air cleaner into the compressor to keep the air/fuel charge cooler. It worked. Good luck with your project. Keep the compression down and keep it simple. Cheers David.

I picked my kit up here in Australia from someone that had purchased it for a Jensen Healey sports car. It came with new 2x HSR 45mm carbs, Adjoining throttle shaft, K&N air cleaners, choke cable adapter, Manifold adapters to bolt straight to the SU/Hitachi manifold and extra jets etc. The part are all new and unused. I paid $800.00AUD which is probably $1200.00AUD cheaper than if I had to try and buy from the USA supplier with the current exchange rate. I have had twin Hitachi/SU carbs, triple 40mm Dellortos, 390cfm Holley and Fitech 4 barrel EFI over the years on various engines but this looks neater, cleaner and less cluttered. I'm just looking for a reliable, spirited drive with reasonable economy. The feed back from customers at Vintage Performance seems positive. I know that Eiji at Datsun Spirit in Virginia has used 6x of the HSR carbs on his engines with great success. David.

Hello from Australia, I have just picked up the same Carbs that you have installed. they look great. Have you finalised the jet selection yet. I will install mine towards the later part of the year on the new engine that is being built. Any advise you have would be appreciated. Looking forward to any updates. Regards David. Australia.

I can recommend these as designed by Derek. I have one here in Australia and when the 280zx comes off the rotissorie next year it will be fitted. I also got the driveshaft made up to suit the car by Godzilla as well. Go for the CD00A as it is a more update gearbox. regards David.

Hi Mate, Check out Pro Tunerz in Ottawa Canada. They are making a Turbo manifold now. https://www.autoyas.com/CA/Ottawa/1681949728590008/ProTunerz Regards David

Hi, The wiring to the solenoid goes through the key switch wiring which is 40 years old. The connections become a problem over time not allowing full voltage to the starter solenoid. A starter relay should be wired in so the old wiring though the switch is only used to activate the relay. The relay kit is available on Ebay, Z car Source , Motorsport etc sites or just make your own. Wiring diagrams will be available on this site. Hope this helps Enzo

Hi, That's the hot air intake and attached from the exhaust manifold to the bottom of the air cleaner. It redirects hot air the prevent the carbs icing up in winter (cold climates). The correct air cleaner will have a sensor and valve device which will mix the air drawn into the carbs at a set temperature to stop icing up. Also keeps the emissions reduced and stops condensation build-up in the valve cover. Cheers David.

Looking good. Very impressive. Paint looks a million dollars.💰

Hi Lowrider, I will be looking for your results with the CB Performance Black Box. I got one sent downunder to Australia to use on a 240z. The original dizzy was stuffed so I found a good points Hitachi dizzy and locked it up internally and disconnected the broken vacuum diaphragm. The points were removed and replaced with a Hot Spark ignition module.(Similar to Pertronic). I have stalled on the project, so it will be a while before I can complete my setup. The price was good , and I liked the flexibility of the advance curve plus the use of vacuum advance all electronically. David.

Hi Guys, The ignition lock has pins. The door and hatch have wafers. Trying to replace pins and wafers on old locks is false economy. The main part of the cylinder wears over the years with the key sliding in and out. Even if you replace the pins and wafers to match your key, the lock will still have wear in it possibly allowing other keys to open the lock. You would be better off just buying a replacement group of keyed alike cylinders off ebay or your local Locksmith. I have replaced the pin cylinder in the ignition of my 1976 260z with a wafer cylinder to keep all of my locks keyed alike. I have seen keyed alike kits on ebay. I spent 30 years as a locksmith and trying to repair worn locks really is a waste of time and good money because they won't last. Hope this helps. David.

Hi Derek, I read a report years ago that having the mesh screens on a race car engine only allowed dust and rubber particules from the soft compound racing tyres (as they degrade)from close proximity racing to be sucked into the combustion chamber and from the intense heat turn sticky and collect behind rings etc. From memory, there were pictures showing the gummy residue (mixture of dust and rubber). It was suggested the filters should be used to stop the bore being scratched and the residue build-up behind the rings. If I can find the article, I will post it. They mesh has a macho tough look to it, but I wouldn't turn the key on my cars without adequate filters. Regards David.

Hi, Looking at you Adds as listed in the first post, to me it reads as Nissan parts. Maybe it's as simple as changing your add to read " will fit Nissan (whatever model)". or "suits Datsun". Just a thought. Wording of an add can change buyers perception. Hope you get it sorted. regards David.

Hi, Just a thought. If you are getting a spark at the plug and fuel is present, Check that the valve adjustment is correct. If the valves are not closing all the way you will have a miss on that cylinder. If the valve clearances are correct do a compression test in that cylinder to see if you have a bent valve that is not closing all the way. David

Hi Brent, Still haven't got around to firing mine up at the moment, but have some extra info for you. You have probably already onto this, but I will repeat it anyway for people not in the know. From FiTech: 1. The pressure regulator on the Fuel Command Centre (FCC) which the original instructions said to leave open on a normally aspirated engine is now recommended to connect to manifold pressure. This can be done at the Throttle Body or direct to the manifold. This lowers the fuel pressure when at idle and cruising conditions when high pressure is not required. 2. The PWM number is 75 which can be dropped to 40. This allows the computer to tune itself easier. Hope this helps. FiTech seems to be updating the system for easier use. Cheers David. (Enzo)

Hi Brent, Same here. Looked at rotating the throttle body but it was in the "too hard basket". It didn't line up easily with the Arizona Z manifold. Probably a bit of overkill but with the alloy plate and extra phenolic spacer, I should have maximum shielding for the IAC. Also the back set of throttles don't seem to open the full 90 degrees. There is something in the installation paperwork about not adjusting the linkages as they are set at the factory.