jkelly

Hey guys, I'm looking for some advice on what to do for the next step of my 240z project. I have the car stripped down to a rolling shell with the engine bay primered and the underside undercoated already. I'm debating between sanding down the exterior and interior to factory primer, repairing any trouble spots in the process, and then shooting paint OR having the interior and exterior media blasting with fine crushed glass (hopefully less likely to warp) and then shooting paint. The factory paint looks okay. There are few spots that have cracked and are peeling but overall it's not bad. Some spots will have to come down to bare metal anyway for repairing. Which route do you guys think I should take? I have a large compressor and the tools to do the sanding. Media blasting would make the following easier, though: One big issue is rust. There are several rust spots that I'm concerned about and am not sure what to do about. There's rust around the inside perimeter of the roof. There's rust inside the passenger and driver side vent plenums that run to the engine bay. There's rust inside the cowl area. There's some rust in the rockers (not too bad) and the dog legs are pretty rusty. I boroscoped most of these places and have some pictures below. The worst of it all is in the dog legs. In the other spots there rest seems to be bubbling a little but mostly on the surface -- some pitting. I'lllet the pictures do the talking. The car: Dog legs: I will most likely be replacing these. Inside the rear wheel-well area above the dog legs: Around the the inner perimeter of the roof: It's rusted most of the way around and the rust goes into the recessed area all the way around. This is perhaps only surface rust and would come off with a wire wheel, but the issue is accessing this area. This is where blasting would be nice and this is one of my biggest concern areas. Inside the driver and passenger vent air plenums: Some other rust around the hatch sill: What do you guys think I should do about the rust areas? Should I get everything blasted as best they can do then seal it? Should I sand/wire brush everything I can and treat it with some ospho or other converter then seal it and use cavity wax? I have these products on hand. I've already put a lot of money into this project so I'm all in and want this to be near show quality and last a long time. I don't know if it's worth it to split the seams on some of that rust or not. How hard is it to remove the roof? I did my own floor pans, battery box, and frame rails.

That engine bay looks good! Do you have a build thread or more pictures? Thanks for the ideas. So you just don't run AC? Good call on separating power wires from signal wires -- avoids any potential for noise coupling.

When you guys have done a 240z to EFI conversion whether it's MS or stock ECUs where do you route the EFI harness through the firewall? Do you cut a new hole near the brake booster or repurpose another hole? Looking for ideas. Thanks

Ah okay. Yeah I can see that being a PITA to get aligned...if it's even possible. Nice. I had just read through your post before posting. I'm kind of leaning towards grabbing a full cover from MSA and going that route. Yours looks really good. Do you have any more pics of the finished dash? Sweet. I'm going to check that out. If it's cheap enough I might try a repair first. I bet some people have tried the polyvance stuff before. I wonder how it works long term. Haven't heard anyone say.

Here's some pictures of my May 1972 240z. It has a glove box logo. Ignore those horrible welds -- I was still learning

Thanks for the reply, G-Tech. I would rather try to keep it original. What products did you use to repair yours? On the repair side of things I'm going back and forth between using SEM products/expanding foam like (Great Stuff foam, SEM bumper repair, SEM texture paint, etc.) and the way more expensive Polyvance method using padded dash filler, plastic welding, FlexTex sprayable texture paint, etc. I'm looking at ~$80 SEM route vs. ~$240 Polyvance route.

Hey guys, has anyone tried to replace the original dash with a full dash cover? That is, move all of the mounting structure/bracketry from the original dash to a dash cover and use the cover as the new dash? I'm not sure if it's doable but I'm in the process of deciding which direction to go with my dash. Considering SEM or polyvance products for a repair, a dash cover on top of the original, or like mentioned using a dash cover as a full on replacememt. The original only has four cracks.

Have you shipped any yet? I just moved and my address has changed.

I live very close to here! I'm going to try to make this.

After talking with MSA they mentioned that one other way to differentiate between front and rear is the front spring should have about 10.5 coils and the rear should have about 12.5. If you look at the pictures the shorter spring has more coils (12.5). I think this is why some people give wrong information e.g. saying the rear spring should be the longer one when they probably mean the rear spring should be the one with more coils. Correct me if I'm wrong. In summary I think the following is what I've decided: Front spring: Par tnumber: 6305.001 Relative height/length: longer than the rear spring Number of coils: 10.5 Orientation: Wider spaced coils towards the bottom, or 'Eibach' logo readable. Rear spring: Part nubmer: 6305.202 Relative height/length: shorter than the front spring Number of coils: 12.5 Orientation: Wider spaced coils towards the bottom, or 'Eibach' logo readable. I still don't know why my front springs have an ever so slight outward bow to them. I installed the second one last night and it's not quite as bowed but still is a little.

I was basing my placement decision on this photo and this forum topic: My spring kit has a box PN of 6305.140

Hey guys, I just started installing my Eibach ProKit springs on my 240z. I brainlessly painted over the part numbers on the springs so I had to do a lot of research to figure out which one was which. The longer non-progressive spring is 6305.001 and goes in the front, I believe, and the progressive shorter spring is 6305.202 and goes in the rear. This is correct yes? I installed the longer non-progressive spring (what I believe to be 6305.001) on one of the front struts last night and the spring looks to be slightly bent out sideways -- i.e. it's not straight up and down. You can also see that it's not straight because the piston rod is not visibly centered within the spring. I'm not sure if it's just not seated properly or what. I did notice the spring coil ends are in the little groves in the strut cap and strut base. See the pictures below and see what you think.

Medium t-shirt in black. Medium hoodie in dark Heather grey. 93561

I think I'm just going to run two SS supply lines from classictube.com. One for supply and one for return. They should be 8mm lines or about 5/16".

Thanks for the info. I was wondering how that 3D printed insulator material drilled.

That's what I've read is that SS is a PITA to work with. I've been trying to find a 240z and 280z diagram of the fuel lines to get a rough comparison -- still looking.

There are a ton of threads on this but I haven't seen one that directly discusses using 280z fuel feed and return lines in a 240z setup with 240z rubber insulators. Will this work? I want to go ahead and upsize my fuel lines for future HP expansion but I want to keep them plug and play if possible and use the original cadmium plated fuel/brake line clips and rubber insulators. I'm curious if anyone has done this (use stainless 280z fuel lines on a 240z with OEM fuel/brake line clips/insulators like this https://zcardepot.com/fuel/gas-tank/fuel-and-brake-line-mounting-insulator-set-240z.html )? FWIW I'm planning to use the original 240z gas tank (for now) and a Walbro GSL392 and Carter P4070 low pressure lift pump. Thanks,

Good call. I was considering that -- probably the best route. Thanks.

I'm looking for stainless brake lines that will fit my maxima caliper conversion for my 240z. I was told I need 1984 300ZX rear lowers. Does anyone have a set? Thanks,

I gotcha. That's a lot of vinegar. Were you able to find it in bulk somewhere or just bought by the gallon?

I really messed up the threads removing one of my 25 spline stub axles. When I tried to repair the threads the new threads were too thin and I'm not sure I trust them to hold the spindle nut on. I'm looking for a single 25 spline stub axle for a 240z. Thanks

Did you do a diluted mix of vinegar and water or pure vinegar?

Those are some good results! I'll try that. I'm also using white vinegar on the inside of the strut housings -- they were super rusty.

I'm restoring my 240z and just dropped the tank. It's not at a severe level of rust on the inside, so I'm wondering what I should do, if anything. I attached a picture of what I can see through the fill hole. Should I do anything? I cleaned my old 280z tank using the muriatic acid method and coated with POR15 tank sealer, but what an ordeal. Not to mention mama said muriatic acid is the devil.

Hey guys, I had a full set of these and somehow misplaced the driver side forward bracketo (pretty sure it got left at my old house when I moved). Does anyone have just the one they would be willing to part with? Thanks,