DuffyMahoney

Thanks for posting, pretty amazing sheet metal work.

They make bronco bodies, and a bunch of people have complained about how crappy they actually are. Fit, overall shape, poor paint etc.. I guess still better then a rusted out junk car.

A fun z video I just was sent. It has my R35 coil bracket on it and has over a 1/4 million views! How cool is that.

Working on PCV again, I am going to try for the exhaust. My basic plan is, valve cover to stock pcv valve, to a catch can, then block to the catch can, catch can to the exhaust.

I really think you should move to an overhead bar.

Linkage is what I am calling the small arms between throttle bodies and the shafts. You need to remove everything connecting each throttle to the overhead bar. Then sync. Then check again once hot. Also blip each throttle, see if they stick or bind once hot. You should have the cable going to a cam on the overhead bar. If that isn't what you are doing, I would highly suggest that route. Setting butterflys is extremely difficult to do perfectly. I would print the 3D file I posted for syncing, then set each off the car. Then put each in an oven to 185 and check each again. Do you have an injector company in your town? Have them checked for flow matching?

How close are they synced now? Are you removing linkage to do that? Are dog bones the exact same lenght?

man, how cool is that!

Have you tried clocking it any? There is an area of the stroke that it won't work in.

I am designing a DBW actuator for this DOHC now!

Its now my least favorite looking DOHC, but it's pretty darn cool technology.

Used ITBS seem to be very rare. HKS, I would stay away from the full chinese DCOE ones. KMS takes the chinese bodies and retrofits them with better butterflies and such. https://en.kms.vankronenburg.nl/products/throttle-bodies/bodies/throttlebody-twin Then there are Jenvy EFI Hardware (probably the best designed out) Throttle blades open the opposite way, tapered bore, better throttle blade angles Borla OER(I would stay away from these) ETC.... A common issue with ITB is when the engine is hot on a hot day, they tend to stick slightly open and having them return to idle doesn't work. I believe the bodies expand and cause pinching, but who knows.

I got my Datsun Z Car Series Oil Sending Unit Relocation / Remote Block done! I have only one for sale now, but more are on order. I am pretty proud of this design. Three outlet remote oil sending unit block. Metal 3D printed out of aluminum to look stock and mimics the 240z, 260z and 280z brake proportioning block design. Block has 3 outlets, all are 1/8 NPT. Comes with a custom length -3AN hose and one 1/8 NPT -3AN fitting and either a 1/8 BSPT or 1/8 NPT for the engine block side of the hose. Stock sending unit on a 240z is BSPT, this will require a NPT sending unit like this. [https://zcardepot.com/products/oil-pressure-gauge-sender-240z-260z-280z-70-77?variant=32184292737137](https://zcardepot.com/products/oil-pressure-gauge-sender-240z-260z-280z-70-77?variant=32184292737137) No sending units come with this order. Pictures of sending units are just for reference. Link: https://www.m2racing.com/shop/p/datsun-z-car-series-oil-sending-unit-relocation-remote-block

Idle increase while hot is the same issue most of us ITB guys are dealing with, I hope a heat shield fixes it.

Here is something fun/ silly I have been thinking of and finally made. It’s a remote oil pressure distribution block made to look like the stock 240z brake prop valve. I previously had a steel T In the block, that broke off and then when I was using an easy out I cracked my stock block bung. I said never again! 3D metal printing is neat stuff. I had it tumbled to look even more cast. I run stock gauges and my ecu needs its own signal. This location allows stock wiring to also work.