Well look at this snazzy haltech s3 ecu mount by Galgo! All I can say is wow.
I guess this means it’s time to finish my wiring from my 750 to my new S3.
This is for the passenger kick panel on a 240z.
I wish I would have dynoed my 2.4L with ITB, but sadly I broke my oil pressure bung mount. I will be taking that block, stripping it down and finding an expert to weld it.
Gosh it better be more then 260hp.
I will eventually dyno test, but we don't have one close to me. I live in a tiny town in Northern Idaho.
Its a very clean z, but sadly painted in the 70s- early 80s and the owner danced on the roof. Lol
For you that have been following along. My 3.12L is finally in my car and home. Gosh it looks so good I’m just going to stare at it! Amazing work by Andrew Kazanis!
This engine was built and done prior to a shop fire. So it’s been through a lot!
I love the contrast of the stock blue block and gold zinc and black.
It features.
My 3.1L
10.2:1 compression ratio
88.5mm bore. N42 block. Sonic tested.
LD crank by marine crankshaft. Crank �Off-set grind to 84.6 stroke�Finish rod journals @ 1.8889"
Thrust Finish 1.27”�R & R plugs with threaded plugs�Dynamic Balance�Ion-Plasma nitride, straighten & micro-Micro polish all journals
E31 head. Port work by Andrew Kazanis
Dsi valves Diameter: 45/36.5mm Length: 118mm, titanium retainers. Isky springs.
Bonk cam. Roughly stock exhaust and intake port sizes. Vapor honed inside and out.
Rebello JE Eagle pistons and toyota rods
221 CFM flow at .45-.5 lift.
Mine is 88.5x88.5x.25x3.14159x 84.6x6 /1000 = 3122cc
It is showing off my intake design and Efi throttle bodies as well as a bunch of my small parts.
They make bronco bodies, and a bunch of people have complained about how crappy they actually are. Fit, overall shape, poor paint etc..
I guess still better then a rusted out junk car.
Working on PCV again, I am going to try for the exhaust. My basic plan is, valve cover to stock pcv valve, to a catch can, then block to the catch can, catch can to the exhaust.
Linkage is what I am calling the small arms between throttle bodies and the shafts.
You need to remove everything connecting each throttle to the overhead bar. Then sync. Then check again once hot.
Also blip each throttle, see if they stick or bind once hot.
You should have the cable going to a cam on the overhead bar. If that isn't what you are doing, I would highly suggest that route.
Setting butterflys is extremely difficult to do perfectly. I would print the 3D file I posted for syncing, then set each off the car. Then put each in an oven to 185 and check each again.
Do you have an injector company in your town? Have them checked for flow matching?