DuffyMahoney

Well Tons if fiddling and swear words. I now have 100% throttle engagement from the gas pedal. Turns out prior I only had like 70%. I normally work from the engine bay and I could always get 100% from there. Whoops FullSizeRender.MOV

I ended up getting new injectors. These are 35lb and they have a traditional 20 degree cone spray pattern. Prior I have a v pattern designed for DOHC motors. Squirting at two valves. Hopefully the work a little better. They are slightly longer. But I got them to work.

I am using a mid 80s bmw iac valve. I was having a hard time finding a hose that looked good and would hold the vac without collapsing. Then it dawned on me, maybe one meant for the same bmw. Fits awesome and is exactly the right size for my balance bar. Stoked

My friend swapped my clutch and fixed some bugs. But putting my center console back in, he pinched a wire on the o2 sensor. Shorted and burnt my dual o2 cam sensor up. Darn it. The old saying no good deed goes unpunished

Flow seems like it should work great.

One of my issues so far with running is my injectors that fit nicely into the throttles are a V stream. So I believe they are just spraying on the walls. I am going to switch out to DeatschWerks 18U-00-0035-6. Single cone spray. They use the same connector. Hopefully I can get the correct orings to deal well. Tioga told me to do this in the start. I should have listened.

Emerish racing and z car do the mod as well.

He is claiming he wants to remake the FIA head. Time will tell, he seems to have deep pockets.

This is one of the reasons I am trying to move my ITB to a fuel rail/ injectors at the head. I plan to use my sk throttes, or go EFI hardware. Then a balance tube at my throttle bodies with hollow injector bungs. This intake out of Japan.

So it has to be some sort of injector issue, since thats really the only difference. Glad you are up and running

Most people use LS coils. I used R35 coils. None of the coils are smart:) Most have igniters built in these days.

We use tin foil over the end, then poke a few holes, let it purge/ fill for 10 or so minutes for a longer piece. Keep the gas going while welding. The joints should be clean and as close as possible. No filler rod

Mostly smoke and just really dirty.

Well sadly my ported E31 head was in an engine shop fire. Luckily my 3.1L was pretty far away from the flames. Well lots of elbow grease and 4 hours in my vapor blasting cabinet and it looks as good as new!. Now time to have it put back together.

A little update on my ITB build. In the middle of this build I decided to buy a historic building and renovate it, then have my first child, so everything got pushed to the back. I am finally finding time to work on it all again. I think one of my biggest issues was voltage from my old alternator, upgrading that has made everything more happy. Well finally got my osgiken clutch out and went with a stage 1 from exedy with a lightened steel flywheel. The osgiken was way too hard for me to street drive and my wife hated it. It was poorly installed by me and it's a pretty racey clutch. I sent to Z car off to a guru. Andrew Kazanis, he swapped the clutch, found my clunk (exhaust hitting during load) and change my rear main seal. Then his buddy Matt finally fixed my passenger regulator. Which hasn't worked in years. I went with a repopped one. Matt thinks my rear end is a little noisy, but Andrew can't hear it. I cannot thank Andrew enough for all his help. He is a friend and just an all around great guy. If I was to start this over, I would pick an ECU that someone in the area knows. I think ITB is something I jumped into, without enough knowledge or money. So many small issues popped up, and all stopped or slowed me down massively. You really end up chasing your own tail a lot, trying to do all of this. A few on here and on facebook have helped a ton. Tioga, Richard Boyk, Rodney have helped so much. I can't thank them all enough. Maps, settings etc... Somehow they have completely different views on pretty much all of the maps, but all are very knowledgeable and all know a ton more then me. It will be interesting as I road tune which maps/ settings I like more. Haltech is nicely made stuff, but I found their original software extremely hard to figure out. They have since done a massive massive upgrade (NSP) and it's much easier to use now and much more intuitive. Also tells you when settings and maps are in conflict. Which is huge! I am getting pretty confidante and I think I have all the small ECU settings correct. The ECU should start self tuning. So time to drive her and get it running right. I literally got stuck for months from one stupid box being checked, I couldn't get the idle right during cold starts! IAC or not. I will most likely attempt to use IAC again. I have it fully plumbed and wired, it's also a learning feature of the ecu, so it should be the best route for cold starts. I will turn it off after say 100 degrees, which the motor idles fine after that. My hand throttle works, also using timing to help cold starts also helps a ton. Also don't rip out perfectly good jenvy throttles, for vintage SK throttles unless you are dumb:)