DuffyMahoney
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Custom grade 5 titanium studs of my design. I am so tired of installing the old studs and I hate the look of the allen ones. I designed intake, exhaust, my intake balance banjos, knock sensor stud, stack studs and my intake intake/ throttle studs! The flat spots work perfect with a box wrench. I also love the look of a rounded tip on a stud. I think they came out awesome, after testing I will be selling. I bought enough, that they should be fairly cost effective as well.
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Dual L6 knock sensors using the stock block m6 hot water pipe mounts. They are actually about perfectly placed! These are just ti prototype. I am designing my own and will be adding them to the things I make and sell.
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Crazy fast
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Well drive by linkage is fast and accurate. Pretty darn stoked. I might try a few more actuators. Since the one I picked is being discontinued (BMW S54 13627840537) This should make anyone doing ITBs life much easier. Cold starts, traction, AC, intelligent throttle curves. This is just hooking it straight to a 12v source. So it’s just on or off. Actually when wired to the ecu, closing will be faster. This is returning via springs. When hooked up to the ecu. It’s powered open and closed.
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Twin cam head for the L6 from Derek at Datsunworks
DuffyMahoney replied to Derek's topic in Nissan L6 Forum
That is pretty darn amazing! -
A tale of two Z's - NA vs Turbo
DuffyMahoney replied to MONZTER's topic in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
Man, how did I miss this thread! Amazing work. Thanks for posting. I love your design work. -
DuffyMahoney started following A tale of two Z's - NA vs Turbo
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Not terrible, but I had to buy 5.
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A musician's therapist (The $300 Z)
DuffyMahoney replied to Zetsaz's topic in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
Coil bracket is looking mint! -
New ITB intake is getting sent off to China to CNC cut! This fixes a few mistakes on the first version and also gives me the stock J-hook pivot as an option. It will feature a bolt on banjo balance bar and ideal injector angles. It's slightly longer then the last version as well.
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A little tip that I learned years ago. If you plan on stuff being painted or coated, the use of anything in a rattle can should be avoided. It's just a extremely poor paint, and your just causing yourself more work in the future. When I have parts I need painted, I have a local smaller auto body should that sprays black parts for me with high end 2 part paint. I drop them off and as long as I am not in a hurry, he sprays my parts when he is spraying anything black. Or I have the powder coater do the same. I think the 60% gloss black powder coating looks almost identical to stock Nissan black.
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Well it works. But the firewall flexes too much, next I will try to mount to the pedal box which doesn’t flex at all. I also want to keep the arm movement on the same plane. Currently actuator is up and down and bell crank is left to right. IMG_2655.mov
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Something fun I have been working on! I really want drive by wire on my 240z. But figuring out a location for the actuator has been tough to say the least. I don’t want it hanging over the intake. This is a 100% bolt in adapter featuring a BMW 6 cylinder actuator and a 350z pedal. This will attach to stock linkage and drive my ITBs. Hopefully it works! The pivot arcs a far bit, so that might not work and the pedal mount might flex too much? Time will tell. This would allow me modern cold starts, any sort of progressive pedal movement I could want. Full idle control, traction control, valet mode, cruise control and way easier tuning. We 3D scanned the pedal area and the actuator to mock it all up in CAD! All of this is 5axis cut out of 6061. IMG_2641.mov
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That's Andrews work! Pistons are eagle, sold by rebello.