Stealth-Z

Improvise. Back through the drive thru's. I learned how to drive a standard shift car while in Okinawa. My job had me switching back and forth between LHD and RHD. So I developed a sort of ambidextrious driving habits. It was fun driving my 74 Formula Firebird backwards at the McDonalds drive thru.

People always asked me back in 1987 if I was going to convert my first Fairlady Z to LHD.

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/cto/838861766.html WTB 240Z or 260z 2+2 seats - $2000 (oakland east) -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Reply to: sale-838861766@craigslist.org [?] Date: 2008-09-12, 11:52PM PDT I am looking for a working 240zor a 260z 2+2 seater, with everything working fine. Must have a RB swap, SR20DE swap or anythng swaps that get at least 23mpg. Please no small block 350 moter. Must be 2000 OBO it's NOT ok to contact this poster with services or other commercial interests PostingID: 838861766

Almost the exact same wording was on a craigslist ad here in Sacramento several weeks ago. I received the same response about opening the ebay protection thing. Of course I never responded, seemed to fishy to me. They used photos of a nice emerald green 300ZXtt. Who ever it is seems to be making the rounds about the country.

Figured I should chime in on the exact suspension setup of the brown 78 280Z used a few months ago for testing. The suspension is not 100% stock. It has energy suspensions urethane bushings, Tokico strut inserts and blue MSA springs. Tie rods and ball joints were genuine Nissan parts. The setup was done about six months before the photos were taken.

Yes

Here are some photos showing some of the differences between the RB20 and RB26 valve covers and timing covers. They are mounted on a RB20 head with the intake manifold bolted on for reference.

#4 is a motor I came across while in the Philippines a few years ago. It came in their Nissan Cefiro. Funny seeing a carburator on it.

R180. Same setup that was in my 76 and 78.

Most likely you have a R180. Do not toss it until you pull the cover and check the gear ratio. Both mine had 4:11's.

You missed the three stalks hanging on the peg board in my garage!

$250.00 delivered and you have to ask for opinions? Just grab it and go from there.

Most of it is under the passenger seat. There is a bypass switch I belive in the engine bay on the passenger side.

Check the ground connection on the firewall close to the battery.

My friend recently spent close to $1500 on his L28. In that cost was a master rebuild kit with oversized pistons. The N42 head was given a valve job and all the lash specs set. We assembled the motor ourselves. The machine shop is on Folsom Blvd. in Rancho Cordova.

You are not finished! It should have looked like this.

It is being claimed that using flat tops gives you 9:1. This is what does not make sense to me. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=212676&view=findpost&p=3938100 It is not the first time I have read this. The first set of Wiseco pistons had an equivelent of 5cc's dish. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=119593&highlight=rb30+importance No matter how I juggle the parameters, I still can not come up with the numbers being mentioned. http://forums.hybridz.org/showpost.php?p=664964&postcount=18 I am trying to clarify this so when people go out and spend $$$ on pistons they get thier desired results. I am curious if there is another way to measure or determine CR.

What is everyone using for a compression ratio calculator? I am in what seems to be a never ending RB30/26 build. I have been using the calculator for the four stroke version on Wiseco's website. http://www.wiseco.com/Calculators.aspx Here are the specs on the Wiseco pistons I have. 3.046 inches (86.5mm) 1.260 inch (32mm) Comp Height 16cc dome The RB26 head I have measures out at 64cc's. The head gasket being used is a Cometic MLS 87mm. Cometic rates the thickness at .051 inches (1.295mm). My block has been decked and the pistons sit at a zero deck. When I plug these numbers, Bore Diameter = 3.046 (86.5mm) Engine Stroke = 3.346 (85mm) Head Volume = 64cc Gasket Bore Diameter = 3.425 (87mm) Compressed Gasket Thickness = .051 Deck Clearance = 0 Piston Effective Dome Volume = 16cc With these numbers I get a CR of 9.69:1 My plan is to shave nearly 11cc's off the piston dome to bring the dome volume to 5cc. According to the calculator this would give me CR of 8.490:1. Now here is my issue. There is a huge section on RB30 conversions on Skylines Australia http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/RB30-conversions-f184.html An individual who is very well known states pistons with a a 4.5cc dish sounds about right for 8.5 to 1 using a 62 cc combustion chamber. He says flat tops are good for 9.0 to 1. His numbers do not seem right. Any one have an opinion? Are there different ways to measure and calculate that I am missing?

1976 on up will require a smog certificate to register. If it has been sitting for a long time, all the rubber hoses will need to be replaced. Part of the smog check now includes pressurizing the fuel tank. If you do not get that vaccuum sound when removing the gas cap (after it has been running a while) then there may be a leaking hose down in the fuel tank area or somewhere else in the vapor return system. All of this is just a time consuming fix. Check for rust inside the engine bay up near the hinges. 77's & 78's seem to have a problem there. $1,600 for a non running project is a bit much.

Vallejo has some interesting parking and towing procedures. The 1976 Fairlady Z I recently acquired was in a Vallejo tow yard. The previous owners neighbors complained about it being an eye sore and said the owner had not moved it in several days. The Vallejo PD was more than happy to have it towed. Most likely some one did complain.

Cutting it up was not something I looked forward to. If the DMV penalties and fees were not so outragious, I would have kept it. Unfortunetly this Z would have ended up in Pick-n-Pull or some other wrecking yard. We took great care to remove the parts along with bagging the nuts and bolts plus labeling them. The only thing I cut quickly was one front brake line. We carefully removed the whole brake and fuel line assembly. There have been multiple times I have gone into Pick-n-Pull and found nice looking Z's shredded by people destructively removing parts. They rip off good door panels and use metal cutting sheers on good doors just to get the door handle or lock out. People jump on hoods and roofs for no appearant reason. The list goes on and on. I did not need the quarter panels, rear valence assemblies, or floor pans. We carefully cut them off so some one else could possibly use them. Most of it is now sitting in my back yard.

$1,000.00 is a bit high to me for a non running Z. Even if the dash is uncracked, chances are it will crack if you try to remove it. Scrap metal is high in price right now. A few years ago car body's were going across the scales for about $30.00 a ton. Lately it has been over $250.00 per ton! Notice how now there are ads for offers to haul off your junk car for free. Cut off the catalytic converter, remove the radiator, and you have about $450.00 between those two pieces and the body. I look at any car, no matter how much I like them, to be ultimately valued at "How much does it weigh"? It is just the cold hard fact. My opinion is not to spend over $500.00 based on what you have stated. You will quickly surpass that amount in parts to repair it. Labor is another story if not done by yourself.

Nathan did not tell you? Next we will be cutting up the red Fairlady Z 2+2 you see in the driveway... NO I THINK NOT!

The interior was pretty much gutted by the previous owner.

Sorry, the roof is going on Nicks Z.