Savage42

Guess he ain't too "slow & rusty".

I seriously don't think it would be 400+ HP. I'd bet it's safe to say 350-375HP, but the thing about 400 SBCs is they have massive torque. My buddy had a 400 SBC in his 240 for 15 years, Pink Rods, forged pistons, serious head work, etc and it was about 325HP but put out 500 ft lbs torque. Torque is king!!

It's got a lean condition or it's a timing issue. Spray around with carb cleaner and check for vacuum leaks, check ignition & cam timing. Gotta be one of those things. How's float level & fuel pressure? Might be that, too.

I'll take one, as long as it is indeed from an '87-89 300ZXT and not the viscous one in the SS. Let me know!

Personally, I'd just go with a synthetic and not worry about mixing anything. Synthetics are better than standard dinosaur juice, anyway. They also make the transmissions shift much easier when cold. Just my 37 cents.

Here's what I did on my 510 with the 2.2, but it had the Electromotive/TWM setup. I ran a hole through the core support right above the frame rail and had a K&N cone filter down there. It's not a "ram air", but cold air and would work well with SUs, I'm sure. Oh, there are big 1 1/2" billet, full radiused air horns in there, too!

Yep, the 510 site that host my pics has been down for a week, so it should be up to normal very soon. It's always something! ;^)

I have the C5 Vette filter that has a built in regulator. The LS1 is setup for constant pressure and does not require a vacuum line plumbed to it to reduce pressure, like that of an OEM Datsun regulator on a 280Z and many other vehicles. I also like the C5 F/R setup, as I can mount the pump in the rear with this setup and only run 1 line up to the motor. I like clean and "less stuff".

I got the one with the JCI kit and use the C5 Corvette filter/pressure regulator. My car is still in the assembly phase, but is a proven setup.

That's how they are mounted on my car. Use some good size flat washers, where you can.

Hey Big D! You crack me up! I'm not one of the "twits" and I don't rule jack, but I did build my blue 510 and I'm doing my Z myself. http://www.dimequarterly.tierranet.com/articles/readers_dime_2_3.html You know Kelvin did all his stuff, but can't really comment on the rest. Anyway, I have to give you credit for getting me started with my 510 and then moving on to road racing and all that stuff. It was that first time I saw "Pinkie" at Medford with the cool brakes & suspension that started me down that long and expensive road to making my 510 a supercar. Hope all is well and maybe we'll meet up at Laguna Seca or Sears in the near future!

After doing many sets of rear control arm bushings on 510s and then yesterday, doing the front upper and lower control arm bushings on my wife's Lexus LS400, I use a propane torch method, with the arm in a vise and heat the outside of the arm and let the thing burn it's way totally out. (a piece of cardboard on the floor and prepare to blow out drops of flaming, burning rubber) If you let it get really hot and burn itself out, the rubber is then dry and crumbles away. Then use a piece of emery clothe, you can quickly & easily just clean up the surface for the new bushing. If you just get it hot enough to push it out, there is much more clean up work and that melted, slimy rubber is nasty. Just my 2 cents.

I found that the R4S pads are extremely rotor friendly. The carbon-kevlar composite is much better than a carbon-metallic (Performance Friction, etc) pad. I typically went through 2-3 sets of pads before I had to do anything to the pair of rotors, and I ran a ton o' track days, autocrosses, hillclimbs and street driving. They work awesome, even when cold and don't need heat to work like many other pads. It is the preferred pad for the 510 crowd for over a decade, whether equipped with stock brakes, 280ZX upgrade or bigger.

We just sent a booster for a customer's '71 240Z to Centric in California and they rebuilt it for $127. Just an option.