Savage42

I assume the confusion is coming from looking up the part number online and it saying "upper or lower hose", but since these are coming off another application that happens to work with the setup we have in our cars, it doesn't matter if it says upper or lower, just get the ones you need for your car. Does that make sense?

See reply #5

Definitely.

I'm running 16" wheels without a problem with the same stuff as the AZC setup.

I'm running 16" wheels without a problem with the same stuff as the AZC setup.

Based on the pictures, I am also curious as to how the steering issue is address. Interesting setup.

Yes, same calipers...Wilwood Superlites. The differences are in rotor choice and hat construction. The biggest difference is if you look at the TTT setup, it has extra holes in the hats and the UltraLite rotors (300mm / 11.81"), which would certainly mean less unsprung weight. This would be great in a street car, autocross or track day on street tires. (maybe DOT race rubber in a lower HP car) If you plan to run race rubber and have high horsepower, you would want to go with the AZC setup, as that rotor (310mm / 12.19") & hat are up to the task of full-on, high speed track days where you will hammer the brakes like you would on a full race car. Of course, the track would also have an impact on how hard the brakes are used, as would driving skill. That being said, both would be fine for street car with regular "enthusiastic" driving, but one is better for extreme driving, which is small number of us on here, anyway. Hope that helps.

Cary, the wheel straightens out the same rate as it does with the stock setup, as there is no dampening like a hydraulic steering setup.

The kits use Wilwood rotors, so you can get a large selection. The Ultralight Drilled rotors (shown above) are designed for circle track cars where brakes are not run hard and have low to medium temps. Running them on a road course would be BAD....warping and distorting. I run hard on road courses and went with the GT 36 Vane slotted rotors, which are the most durable for extreme use. When I worked with Wilwood on my brakes, the guys there told me that the only reason they drilled the rotors used on street cars is because people pay for the looks. Unless rotating weight is what you are after, getting rid of surface area cuts down on performance and all you need is slots to clear hot gases and pad buildup. You will also get stress cracks at the holes on brakes that are run hard (track days), Then again, if you don't plan to run your car hard on road courses, then it may not ever be an issue. If you like how they look, then go for it. Just get the right brakes & rotors for your application and driving use. http://www.wilwood.com/Rotors/RotorList1.aspx

Out of curiosity, did you go with the "swiss cheese" rotors for less weight or because you like the looks of them?

I've always run about -2.5" of camber without any sign of unusual wear. The high offset wheels and flares will certainly due much more to wear out the wheel bearings than negative camber with a standard offset wheel.

I have the 45 amp unit and every part of the suspension is new, aside from the rack. No pulsing and is much smoother than the stock hydraulic setup in my BMW 540i M-sport. I drove a '60s Mustang with it and it makes a BIG difference, as the steering in those things is awful.

I drove a car with the same setup and it gives you nearly the same feel, just with less effort. When off, it feels exactly like stock and is controlled manually via the dial, does not have speed sensing, so the feel is linear. Of the couple of race teams using this setup, they actually commented on how much better the steering feel is, even in road race conditions and is better than hydraulic PS. On cars with big flares and slicks, it was an even better improvement and offered better feel & control when pushed to the limit under high loads. These guys (http://www.usautoperformance.com/epas/ ) have the different amperage units and control modules for different applications, specifically developed the product for the racing and high performance vehicles and NOT the mass consumer market that isn't worried so much about feel & performance, just less effort. That's my 2 cents.

Actually, every car has toe adjustment, but most do not have camber or caster adjustability. As mentioned previously, with stock springs, you have limited adjustment and you may want to look at just slotting the holes for the strut mount to get rid of some camber. I've never seen a Datsun needing to take out negative caber when lower, at least in the front, but the rear on on 510 or 280ZX, that's another story.

Unless you are driving the car VERY hard and have too much positive camber, the wearing of the inside of the tires is more likely a toe issue. Have you replaced the T/C rod & control arm bushings? It could be movement in the bushings or worn tie rod ends or ball joints.....basically something worn that is allowing movement and the alignment to stay true. Either that OR your alignment has incorrect toe setting. I had ZX struts on my 510 with 1.5 degrees of negative camber and my tires wore evenly. Of course, ran it hard to get them to wear that way and never had any understeer. Maybe you should look at adjustable T/C rods & control arms up front, especially if you want to keep your current suspension and not switch to coilovers. Hope that helps.

Even without the issue, CVs are noticeably smoother than u-joints, even when new! Smooth is good!

Actually, I got mine locally, which is the manufacturer of the units for a wide variety of cars, but the Zpowersteering guy is a distributor/seller of just the Z unit. Either way , it's the same setup. The original used the top & bottom halves of the stock steering column and firewall mounting flange, but the new version now just uses the top part. Nice piece, for sure and he is selling quite a few for lots of different cars. Good stuff!

This is an older thread, but since there has been progress in this area, I thought I'd add this update. I just installed this unit into my Z and when it's off, it's exactly like stock. You can dial in the amount of assist, so it gives you flexibilty in that regard. Now you can just send in your column for a core and get a ready to go unit, making it a simple upgrade that pretty much anyone can do. They have sold many to Z owners overseas and here in the USA, along with many 'o hotrodders, '60s Mustangs and the like. Very cool.

If you read the replies on the Subaru Forester thread, it is said several times that it's a VLSD, which requires different stub axles. That is most likely your problem, as all of the CLSD diffs I've dealt with for years have that solid carrier with a couple "windows", not open like that.

Done! Thanks!!

Looks great. $20 sent via Paypal. Thanks a bunch!!!

The rubber brake line holder/separator is the one that mounts to the firewall at the top of the tunnel, as seen here. I have the bracket, just need the rubber part. I have added a pic of the one on the firewall on the passenger side that runs over to the center one and then to the master cylinder. Thanks.

Hey guys, I need a couple of oddball parts. First, is the bezel piece that goes onto the end of the ignition switch assembly that has the "Off, ACC, ON, Start" on it. I don't need the rest of the ignition switch assembly, but if you have one without a key or is bad, that'll work. The other is the rubber brake line separator piece the holds the brake/fuel lines and goes into the bracket fixed to the firewall at the top of the transmission tunnel. I had this piece, but can't see to find it after putting in new brake lines in the car this weekend. If anyone can help with these 2 oddball pieces, I'd appreciate it. Thanks.

I brought the Longacre scales home from the office, so I'll be doing some corner weighing in the next day or two. Stand by.

Looking again at my car, the leading edge of the bottom of the hood goes right across at the middle of the filter. It also sits back quite a way, so it would be very difficult for any significant amount of water to get to anything but the bottom edge of the filter, even at speed. With a shaker or AAR 'Cuda hood, it's a ram air setup right into the toilet bowl (carb), so I could see it happening with it. I'm not worried about it, even with the Florida downpours we have nearly every afternoon in the summer months.