turbogrill

This is a warning for newbs trying to remove a head with ARP studs: Remove the studs first using an allan wrench and then the head. Otherwise the studs will scrape the head and you will get a nice pile of aluminum shavings in bores, oil gallary or coolant passage. Its also very hard to remove the head with studs in place. Also dont drop stuff into the coolant passages, very interesting exercise to get them out... (I should write a datsun for dummies book, you have no idea...)

Do you know how to create a log file? Start it and runit for a while and then send it to me. Also include the tune. I can see if I have the time to take a look. I am doing fuel only with my (non turbo) setup. It's the first step, once that is working you do timing. Are you sure your MS is driving the timing? I will do what Chickenman suggested as well, but I will probably buy the Quad Spark module and maybe the IGN-6.

Thanks for the input. I also just realized that I need to know exact TDC for ignition purpose. I am running Megasquirt with a nice timing system, I guess the OEM indicator can't be trusted. BRAAP has a different method from the Rebuild Book, he don't know the exact TDC until the cam is degreed, http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/20414-how-to-degree-your-l-series-cam/ I am having issues getting trust worthy camspecs for my cam as well, I bought it used. Edit: If this would be a stock cam and a stock head then there would be no need to find exact TDC right? Since the cam would need degreeing. If the "oblong groove" of the locating plate is in line with the camshaft sprocket then the cam is at TDC, then with marked links it's impossible for the crank not to be at TDC.

Hi, I had to slightly rotate the camshaft to get the chain on into the correct position, I think it's the same as moving the cam a little like you did. As long as the following is correct I should be good right? - Cam marker aligned to the "notch" - Chain bright link at the cam sprocket mark - Chain bright link at the crank sprocket mark Obviously the cam might be needing some advance/retard but that is a different story I guess. So, before (painted a red dot at the marker): Almost almost Only way it goes on is on the link above, but this is obvously wrong (and doesn't align to mark): After rotating the crank CCW just a tiny bit I managed to get it on right: My cam is almost exactly in the middle of the notch, some say it should be a little to left. So maybe mine is a little advance. Not sure... The rebuild book recommend that you should find the exact TDC. But why? This method seems much easier?

Interesting, so how come a lot of the other 260-290 duration NA cams have such moderate lift?

.535 is a lot of lift! For NA cams it's typically only seen on racy cams. (Maybe because it requires some skill to get right? Notched pistons valve train stability?)

haha! So typically how much wrong can it get? I would care if it's 10degress but 2-3 is fine for me. First engine build so I am just glad if it works

Hi, Do you always degree your aftermarket cams? I hear some people say you HAVE too, other say it's not needed. This is from Isky: "Because Iskenderian Cams are manufactured with such high precision you can install them on the stock timing marks without any further checking; however, for those who wish to learn how to properly check and verify valve timing, we recommend the following procedure."

Ok thanks! Yes front cover is off, it's just the block. So all I have to do is to make sure that #1 piston is at it's top position?

Hi, I am about to put on my head onto the block. (N47 head, flattop pistont, nothing crazy). According to all the manuals the cam should be aligned to the mark and #1 cylinder should be at TDC. How accurate at TDC does it have to be? I have turned the crank a few times and I think it is at its top location, but I haven't done any accurate measurements. What happens if it's 2-3 degrees off? Will the cam be out of phase by this amount or will it fix it self once I put the chain on? Thanks

Hmmm...we run similar tires like that (RS4). Maybe I should log the oil pressure doing going around in a circle like I am crazy. I wonder if a hydramat works with oil...that would be awesome.....it doesn't.

Wow! What kind of engine is it? I also have a 280zx....I can out drag Miatas....not so much GT3s....:)

Datsun spriti also sells rods/pistons, http://datsunspirit.com/shop/ Not sure how it is price wise compared to Rebello

Sounds like an awesome build! Carb or EFI?

I think its "cheap" as long as you can stay under 6500 rpm, afterthat you need forged pistons and balanced crank. Something to keep in mind.

Hi Is it safe to retap the oilpressure sensor to 1/8 npt without cleabing the block afterwards? Or will i get metalic debris in my oil gallery? Alternatively,would this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071PF53LP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_S3rnAbQ23AVCF work? Its a 1/8 bpst to 1/8 npt adapter

Don't know much about carbs but I think a stock cam and stock compression will never perform wonder ( I guess unless you put in nitro or turbo it). I am confused. So there are 2 engines: Stock Engine 1. Run earlier this year and should be good. Stock Engine 2. Needs a rebuild Both cars are out of the engine? Car has no engine? If you want the drive the car now then put in the good engine and rebuild the bad engine in the background. Is there any benefits of rebuilding good engine over bad engine?

Ok thanks!

Hi, I got the head off from the engine and need to turn the cam into TDC. I am having trouble twisting it, I need to use a lot of force. I guess it's just the force needed to overcome the springs. Is there a trick?

We run 180 thread tire (Venus rs4), sticky street tires. So I think that might save us, I have logged the oil pressure and it was never low. However I didn't log it at COTA they have some sweepers.

What kind of tires are you running?

Hi, Is oil starvation an issue with track prepped L28? On other non L-engines it's common when running slicks and good suspension. It seems like some people make special oil pans but a lot of people race just fine without it. Is it only a problem at long long sweepers when running slicks? I have never seen an issue on our race car but we have 180 threadwear tires

Interesting stuff! What would be the benefits of doing this swap?

Check the following sites, Colt cams, Isky, Rebello,Schneider. I think all of them has cams that work well with stock springs. Maybe call Rebello since it looks like their site hasn;t been updated in a while...

Also, at some point you will need to take a decision if you want to get steel braided or rubber hoses. You will see a lot of builds have steel braided, it looks cool and it's probably safer as well BUT it's harder to do right. I spent a fortune on high quality steel braided and high end fittings, but I have 2 fuel leaks because I suck at fabbing the hose ends. Fresh rubber might have been better for me...