datsunlover

Heh heh.. well, my friend just can't be without a Volvo.. He talked to a guy at a nearby dealership, and may get into a '92 960 wagon. Said the guy will give him the 960 AND $500 for his wrecked 850T. The 960 needs a tranny and a few minor things, but is in overall pretty good shape. My friend has ALSO sourced out a 960 sedan localy to use as a parts car (needs engine/interior work). For $500. He still likes the 850T more, but finding an 850 to swap his turbo motor/ect into is not easy or cheep... at least the 960 is rear wheel.. muhahaha...

Yup. It actually will 'clear' the threads as you back off a bit, and then turn the bolt in. Like taping; turn a few turns in, and back off half turn or so to 'break the chip' and so on and so on. With tight threads/close fits, the threads can actually try to cut as they thread in, like 'cross threading a bolt' only not to that extreme. I don't know for sure in this application, but some threads are actually an 'interfearance fit' and are tight ALL the way in, right from the start... I actually find that trick quite helpfull when removing rusted bolts as the rust will bind and stick in the threads. When you tighten it back in slightly, you clear the rust and can then unthread the bolt more each time you do this. I just removed the nuts/bolts from my z's exhast maifold yesterday by doing this... well, two of them. I forgot and snaped the first one off after cracking it loose and going 'hog wild' thinking it would spin off...

yah, my friend and I have both toyed with the idea of a V8 volvo.. several times. His first car was a 240, and my father had Volvos.. (240T and 740T wagons) so we both 'know' the cars. I agree on the overbuilt part too.. From all I have found out, you can basicaly drop your V8 in and go.. no chasis, suspension, brake upgrades are really needed.. But hey, while Im at it... I think if I did one though, it would be a 240 wagon. Lowered (IPD) and shaved bumpers, quiet muflers, and all black paint/windows. Oh, and I'd lean towards the 351W as my volvo friend is ALSO a ford guy, and has the info/conections. It would make a nice sleeper to cruise around in.. If his 850T isn't salvageable, he's probly gona drive his crown vic, which was originaly going to be his 'engine/tranny donor car' for a mustang progect. (And yes, it has the 351/C4 I WAS going to drop in my z.. long story) Looks like he won't be building a stang anytime soon, and I doubt the 850 will ever see the road again..

I think it's possible to time an engine 'by ear' as I'm sure a lot of folks here have done over the years.. I don't own a timing light, and frankly never felt the need to put one on my car.. I got it running, advanced the dizzy as far as it could go before the engine screamed "aaahhggghhhh!!" (pings) and got the idle down to just under 1000rpm. Now, as for knowing exactly WHERE it is set, this method isn't any good.. but what are you saying when you say 'corectly time' an engine? Fuel milage? Performance?

Awesome.. heh heh.. looks just like my 93 2wd.. except for the blower out the hood..

Sounds like maybe a tiny bit of metal or maybe dirt (somehow?) caused it to 'pick up' and that's why it stuck.. OR.. it was actually to long of a bolt and bottomed out? After bottomng out, even a little presure is enough to pull threads if the 'fit' is tight. (IE;tight tolerances between threads) The other (less likely) thing would be that the bolt was the wrong thread for the hole... but I assume not because you already had it threaded it a few times right? As for fixing, it is most likely posible to chase the threads to clean them up.. just use lots of taping fluid, and go slow with the tap.

Well the new Volvos are starting to actually LOOK good, as wel as being safe/well built. If my friend wasn't charged (and the lady driving the van had been..) He was going to look at a C70 convertable.. IMO a really nice looking car.. Unfortuantly, the left turn thing is the same here in Canada. Unless the lady was drunk, or had left the scene of the accident, my friend is at fault. I would probly have done the exact same thing.. I mean, the light was yellow long enough that ALL the other traffic was stoping.. He's sure the light was red as he got hit.. too bad there wasn't a camera. IF he can even afford insurance now, he may buy my 2wd Nissan truck.. even that's gona be expencive though.. I saw him yesterday and was playing with his 4 year old (got some 'cool tools' for xmas; plactic nuts/bolts, screwdrivers, drill, ect.. pretty cool toys!!) and the kid is happy and totaly unaware of what happened 3 days ago.. yes indeed. Lucky.

I was talking to a friend of mine and we were tossing around an idea.. He recently wrote off his 94 Volvo 850T (see my post in the non tech area; not so happy new year) But the 'front clip' survived intact. We got to talking about my Z, weight, hp, ect.. I don't know the specs on the volvo motor, except its a 2.5L turbo intercooled 5 cylinder. But it hauled around a heavy 4 door TANK of a volvo quite respectalby.. Actually, my fairly stock 280z couldn't even keep up from a 'red light drag' one night.. The thing seamed happy to rev, and there were a few ocasions we got the thing close to 200kph.. and it was willing to keep going!! (mind you we didnt hold those speeds for too long.. not enough road.. or nerve!!) I know the volvo engine is setup for front wheel drive, but I've seen an older Volvo P1800 with this engine in rear drive layout... also TWIN turboed.. heh heh.. So it is theoreticly (sp?) possible IMO to mount in a Z.. and being a 5 cyl, it'd be easy to fit lenghtwise.. it's a very smooth engine, and it pulls really nice above 3000.. with some 'tweeking' of the boost, and a decent exhast Im sure it be a lot of fun in a Z.. and it would be DIFFERENT!

Auto.. hmm.. maybe invest in a 5 gear? I doubt the auto will stand up to the abuse of 240 RWHP.. what's that gona be.. close to 300hp at the flywheel?

Well, a couple days ago a friend of mine was in a car wreck. Waiting to turn left in his 94 Volvo 850T (with his girl friend riding shotgun, her 1 year old behind her SLEEPING, and his 4 year old son behind him..) light goes yellow, traffic stops, he starts his turn and a minivan screams through the yellow/changing to red light. He sees it, tries to get out of the way, but the van hits the right pasenger REAR door hard. Air bags go off in the front, twists the car so bad the front windsheild cracks, and his girlfriend couldn't open her door from the inside. I have to say.. if/when I start a family, I AM BUYING A VOLVO! His girlfriend's kid didn't get a scratch! Woke up and looked around.. didnt even freak out. His kid was fine, but started crying when they had to leave 'daddys car' and go home in another car. My buddys fine, and his girl wasn't hurt to bad, just slightly burned by the 3 coffees on her lap, and her neck is a bit sore. (I think she turned her head away quickly at the moment of impact, and got a bit of whiplash in the hit/spin) My friend told me "He has never felt safer in a crash. Car was like a rock.. just took the hit and held together." I saw the car yesterday at the impound, and it's totaled IMO.. the pass. rear door is pushed right into the wheel well, and into the car so much its about 1/4" thick in one spot. Actually ripped the sheet metal in a few spots.. The interior panel is BARELY touching the seat. (where a 1 year old was sitting in a car seat) The rim is bent to hell, and looks like the rear suspension is kicked in and back so far I doubt a doughnut tire would even go on it. The door glass is actually BENT but didn't break. Even the drivers side rear door is sticky to open, so it would seem the chasis is twisted pretty good.. It WAS a really nice car.. What REALLY sucks, is that even though the minivan was running the light, AND most likely speeding, my friend is still 'in the wrong' and the cops droped off a ticket/fine tonite for 'improper left turn' which means he's 100% at fault. He only had basic coverage too, so he's screwed. He's going to fight it in court, but I don't think he has much of a chance.. Kind of a crappy start to 2005.. but at least everyone is still alive.

Nice.. nice.. and nice.. really nice.. damn... how'd you end up with all these awsome nissans?!?! I can barely afford my 'pretty much stock' 280z and a 93 king cab 4x4!!! Never mind a place to store/work on them.. heh.. nice stable you got there.

I don't think so. As far as I know (and it does sound odd I admit..) BOTH lights come on when power is put to the ECU. They just use red/green so you can tell which code it's giving while in code reading mode.. (One red flash/blink= 10, 1 green flash = 1. IE; red red.... green green green.. would be code 23.) otherwise, they just stay on. Do you now how to check the codes? Could be evrything is wired fine, but there's a loose conection/missing sensor somwhere..

Come to think of it.. didnt some s10 trucks come with a B/W 5 speed? You'd need a 'short shifter' unless you want the thing to be almost touching the roof in your Z.. but I know a guy who had an s10, and he ..er, well.. abused it regulary. He finally crashed the thing..into a house.. dont' ask, but never had a problem with the engine (reliability OR power) and the only tranny issues were smoked clutches. IIRC, he droped a 4bbl intake on, had headers and 'true' dual 2.25" exhast, ran an MSD box and the rest was stock. He ran 3.08 posi rear gears, and that s10 would move REALLY good.. I'd say a Z would HAVE to be quicker, just being lighter..

Well, I used 4 of those all last winter to hold up my car as I worked on it.. I set them on sheets of plywood (on dirt, in my 'portable garage' in the backyard.) and put 2x8 lumber on top of them which the car sat on. Do NOT use them on their side (Ie through holes parallel to the ground) but stand them as they are in that pic. I also had two jack stands under the front end at the t/c rod area (just behind them actually, where there was somewhat of a 'frame' left) You have to be careful not to drop the car on them too hard, and make sure they are SQUARE cause they can tip as well as crumble. It'll work, you just have to be carefull.

If I were to go drive right now.. I'd BE one of those idiot drivers! That is why I am contently sitting here in a drunken stuper, about to go to bed. Happy yew near!

BAAAHAHAHAHAHAHAHHA... :lol: I just about got upset there... heh heh...

No, I don't think they are suposed to be on unless the key is turned from the off position. Any key posision from off, they come on, and after start up they should go off iirc..

Heh heh.. you will want to put new plugs in BEFORE you switch to the newer maifold.. It's a BA$SATRD to change plugs through that intake (I have two 93' pickups.. uuugh...) I'll don't see why the pathy dizzy wouldn't work though.. Looks to me to be the same.. either way, could you not just bolt on your pathy valve covers? (from what I see thats the only reason the pathy dizzy isn't a 'drop in'.. ?) Cool swap man!

Meh.. I'd fix it.. it's salvageable. Mine was almost as bad.. got lucky and picked it up AFTER a shop had replaced the floor pans/rails... well, 'lucky' in that they were.. there.. I still had to finish the job.. If you CAN find a better shell, sure why not? (dont know your location.. if it's like mine, you get what you can...) But anything can be fixed.. and the outer body shell doesnt look too bad..

Jello biafra.. heh heh.. cool.. I'd go to that! Alas.. I am maroned in the far far northern wasteland of Canada.. I shall be climbing into a box of beer soon (wow.. its already 1:30!) and will stay there till the wee hours of the morning.. I'll probly scream (drunkely of course) Hapey nuw yerr!!!! and at that point, I will pass out. Ahh yes.. another year shot all to hell..

Well theres the thing... he asked for OTHER options so I gave one.. What's your issue with kick panel speaker mounting? I mean, if for example.. say you DON'T want to hack up your door panel, or think it may intrude too much towards your leg while driving.. I see by your pics you have a zx.. the older z's are a bit narower (IMO anyway..) and don't have as much room in the door area there. I know I know, it's been done in a 1st gen.. I just wouldnt do it to my car for the reasons I just stated.. I'm sure DeusEx is thinking similarly..

Bringing back this post from the dead.. just curious why it (calculator) doesn't list a 280z 4 speed? Is it because it's identical to the 260z? This might sound stupid, but I thought they were diferent..

I'd put them in 'kick' panels down by your feet.. they'd be custom and different side to side, but there should be enough room.. I'm planing on doing this to my 280z sometime this winter.. (2 6x9's just don't cut it..) I'll try to post pics when I do..

I just realized the dates of your.. er, 240sx's demise.. maybe youe SHOULD buy another 240sx.. then next december when THAT gets rear-ended, you can pick up a Z.. (cause...things happen in threes right?) Just kidding man.. I'm biased though, and hope the datsun thing works out for you.

Basicaly, what ez-e said.. Then first thing I would do is advance the timing a bit, gut the catylitic (if it's there) and replace the stock restrictive exhast and mufler with something better/bigger. Get a K&N filter, clean the throttle body, put some good gas in her, and make sure you have some good tires on the thing... this is the point where you go for a drive and enjoy it. However; You will soon tire of the 'lack' of power, but like has been said.. you can go from there. high comp, s/c, turbo, V8.. hange around here for a while and snoop around. Welcome to the site.