WildBill

I was thinking fender vents like a mid-late 70s trans am had, would get rid of underhood heat and pressure.

That thing is looking sick! Flows with the lines of the car much better, excellent work!

On my Dodge truck w/Cummins diesel, the valves are adjusted cold. I suppose you could adjust the valves when hot, then check clearances when cold and use that spec. for cold adjustment, then do a quick run through when hot to double check (at least the first time). Seems like OHC with screw adjusters have hot adjust spec, OHC with shim/bucket are cold spec, and OHV engines with solid lifters have a cold adjust spec.

I asked them about R200 diff, they didn't bring any to the show but they said they have one available, didn't ask about spline count though!?

Your cylinder head? LOL, .004 sounds like it should be surfaced to me, but not sure what the specs are.

A TPI 350 is no slouch, heck, a 305 TPI would go pretty good in an IROC Z with damn near stock setup - shift into OD at about 120 if I remember correctly. And a Z car is much lighter, or course!

If you are going to run nitrous or turbo, I would use forged pistons for long-term durability.

you cut the line going to the rear brakes and add the lock inline

Holy crap, dude! I'd say about 20 grand or so should do it, or half that if you work for cheap!

Crane cam, call Crane and ask them if they can i.d. it.

This'll be cool, I'm finally making it down to SEMA this year, woohoo!!!

Yeah, I think people put overstate drivetrain losses a bunch. Factory power ratings are fudged this way and that so don't mean a whole lot. Even wheel dynos don't tell the whole story - i.e. air resistance while driving down the road. Synthetic fluids reduce drivetrain friction losses as stated above. The main thing, is that smaller, lighter components typically use less power than larger, heavier components. But at the potential cost of reliability due to strength. For example, my El Camino has a turbo 400 transmission and 12 bolt rear end. If I ran a turbo 350 and a 10 bolt, I could put more power to the ground because the smaller, lighter parts sap less power. But the odds of the staying together behind a 502 with nitrous is not as good. As for how much power each component saps, it's going to be different with different units (four or five speed, size ring gear, etc.), fluid type and weight, temperature, etc. Hell, tires have different rolling resistance, as well as different road surfaces! Try not to lose any more sleep over all this!

To me putting it on a 4x4 chassis is LESS of a deal than swapping in an American V8! Especially if it's on a Datsun chassis!

Sounds like float level is too high. Was it leaking on primary or secondary throttle shaft? (you really should go ahead & check/adjust both floats anyway). Never heard of longer bolts!? Are you talking the accelerator pump discharge nozzle?

Oww, hope you're doing ok, usually takes a day or two to really hurt, but at least you can man up about the whole thing, just keep moving forward!

Hopefully that's the only thing that was forgotten! Good luck

I don't have a service manual to reference right now, but the injector signal comes from the ecu. If you swapped it out and still no go, then either the ECU is not getting the signal it needs, or have a power or ground problem. Not sure where it gets it's signal from, i.e. module, distributor, etc. but a wiring diagram would help out a lot, do you have a service manual?

Not sure what fuel pressure on the injection system is, but typically would be quite a bit higher than you need for carbs, so might check on that first. As far as the relay, they are very simple, just need key on power to activate relay. Relays are very basic, just need a ground, power in, activation, power out when activated. If you can't figure it out with the stock relay, just go to the parts store and ask for a 30 amp 4 pin relay (can have 5, you just don't use the fifth terminal) and hook it up. The relays actually have a wiring diagram on them, or I'm sure you could find a schematic online or in an electrical book (check repair manual, or local library) Good luck!

You get a compression test gauge kit, and a cylinder leakdown tester. Remove all six spark plugs, insert the correct compression test adapter into each spark plug hole, one at a time, hold the throttle wide open, crank the engine and watch the needle on the gauge, watch it jump up about 5-6 times as you crank it, stop cranking and read the gauge. This is called a dry compression test. Write down the results for each cylinder as you check them. If there are large variations between the cylinders, you can put a few squirts of oil down each plug hole, and redo the whole test. This is a "wet" compression test. If any cylinders that were a lot lower than the others come up more even with the "wet" test, then that cylinder was either severely washed down with fuel from a bad injector/lack of spark, or the rings/cylinder bore is worn out and needs a rebuild. With the leakdown tester, you insert the adapter into each spark plug hole just like with the compression tester, but instead of cranking the engine over, you apply compressed air to the adapter (follow the instructions) and it will tell you how much cylinder pressure is leaking out each cylinder (test each cylinder). Leakdown could be past the rings, or past either the intake or exhaust valve. This stuff is all pretty easy to do, but it sounds like you are very new to engine mechanicals. I would recommend a visit to you local library to get some books on basic engine concepts, and pick up a service manual for your car. A lot of us don't mind helping out, but you have to show a little initiative and effort on your part - it's ok to be a sponge, but not to be a leech 8) Good luck with your car.

Did you check the spark to #4, or just unplug the wire & no change? I would make sure you are getting spark to the plug, if not, check spark out of the cap. Also, the injector could be working electrically, but not mechanically. You could verify spark and compression are good (just to be safe), and then swap the #4 injector with another cylinder and see if the misfire changes cylinders. But before you do that, make sure you have an injector pulse on #4

Wow, that car is looking great! That's the type of build I would love to have to the time & money to do. Although at that level I would almost be afraid to drive it! Definitely inspiring Thanks for sharing

Sorry, guys. I apologize to you, Phred for not appreciating your input and help, and to everyone else for not following forum rules. I guess I have to expect more than what I ask for when everyone on this forum is more technically inclined that you find elsewhere. That's why I like this place! I'll go kick myself and bang my head on the wall a few dozen times and ask forgiveness. I was assuming it might be good to have someone familiar with the L6 Datsun do the work, If not, then I have lots of options in my area. Thanks for the recommendations and have a great day!

Thanks for helping!

Anybody have any recommendations on where to get cylinder heads ported in Washington State? NA street porting with verification on flow bench. Thanks in advance!

Why? A twin turbo 355 can put out 800HP! (see Nelson Race Engines) A 400rwhp L30ET can't get traction with two guys in it (see videos from this site on YouTube) Is this a race only car? An LS2 puts out 400hp stock, slap a procharger on it and you easily have 600+ hp and it idles like stock, because it is! You could always do a remote mount turbo (like STS) to make it all fit nice, give you that turbo sound, and not have the clutter under the hood. That would be a lot of fun!