cheftrd

To airfreight an RB30 from Aus to Canada would cost more in freight than what he is asking for the whole deal.

You also get higher lift cams, solid lifters, and a lot more potential with the 26 head. Many people just swap the internals from the 26 into the 25 block, as well as the head, when doing an FR swap.

Want to properly build an intake manifold? Buy "Design Techniques for Engine Manifolds/Wave Action Methods for IC Engines". Better know math... Lots of it. That said, here are some verry, verry, verry, basics: 1. Thin sheet metal you can bend easily around a piece of wood will balloon at 20psi. Think more around .125" 5052 H34 for easy forming and welding do-it-yourself. 2. 88,000 devided by peak torque will get you in the neighborhood for runner length as measured from the intake valve. This is very general, but you're going to find that it's not much different than the stock runner length. 3. On single throttle applications, 70% of engine displacement for high response, circuit engines; 125% of engine displacement for drag motors. This is very basic and doesn't cover anything about how pressure waves from one cylinder affect the others due to the shape, etc. If you are running stock cams and head, you can not beat the stock manifold for best across-the-rpm-band power.

There are stamped steel braces that bolt to the side of the bolck and the trans. However, there are plenty of high power RB26's not using anything other that the four block bolts without failure.

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=111550

What are you going to use now?

You need to check to see if the pump is getting voltage while cranking. It's supposed to turn off after a few seconds if the ECU doesn't see engine rotation. If it turns on, and you can hear it at ign-on, you should get some gas while cranking. The chances of a new pump being completely bad are almost zero.

There were lots of Japanese complaining about failure, but they were all mounting them in the trunk and pulling fuel up to them. One guy even had the stock 8mm line feeding the -10 inlet with the pump in the trunk... I've used quite a few of them over the years from Aeromotive, Paxton, etc, and have had zero failures when the pump is mounted around the level fo the bottom of the tank.

Clint, You should be using a set up similar to Jamie's. -10 from the tank to the pump. -10 from the pump to an inline -10 filter. -8 from the filter to a bulkhead "T" in the engien room. Two -6's from the "T" to each side of the fuel rail. A single -6 from the center of the rail to a regulator, and -6 from the regulator back to the tank. If you don"t have a tank with a drag-sump style outlet, you will need a surge tank: http://www.sdsefi.com/techsurge.htm Another alternative is to run two parallel inlines into a "Y", not a "T". However, I'm a firm believer in keeping it simple. They make the big, single pumps for a reason. Bosch pumps are better quality than the Walbro, hands down. I can also buy three Walbro 255's for the price of a Bosch 280 liter pump...

If it runs fine at normal operating temperature, but like crap when it's hot, I would assume fuel boiling. Electronics like the coils and ignitor can make a car misfire when they get hot, but the chug and ping you describe points towards a lean condition.

It almost sounds like the timing retards heavily under boost. If the WG is not open at 5-10psi it's an engine management problem.

Nope...

I've used the 2540's before on a GT-R. They spool quite nicely as long as you have aftermarket maniflod/s. The bolt-on version from HKS has the large inlets that are about 1/3 larger than the stock exhaust manifold outlets. I don't remamber what the potential airflow is for the 2540's but the GT Lemans are rated at about 650 for the pair.

To be honest, I think there wouldn't be enough interest to make it cheap enough. 1. There are not a lot of people dropping RB26's. 2. Probably about 90% of those are more concerned with the "26" bling than performance. 3. The 10% who do care (most of the people on this board) are not reaching for the stars where the oil pan will play a roll in block integrity (Just reaching, but figure 700+ hp). You would probably be better off just building a sheet metal pan out of 3/16 aluminum with five or six 3/16 bulkheads. My $.02

Don't know if this has been put out or not, but Nismo is now selling Engine parts used in the their GT500 and Nur24H race engines. GT Engine Block 11000-RRR45 Y258,000 (I believe it's a modified and strengthend N1 block) GT Crankshaft 12200-RRR4A Y298,000 (77.7mm stroke. stronger than stock, dynamic balance, modified fillet roll, 87mm bore and GT rods for 2771cc) GT Connecting Rods (CrMo) Spec 1 119.5mm 12100-RRR4A Y20,000 Spec 2 121.5mm 12100-RRR4B Y20,000 GT Head Gasket 1.2mm 88mm bore 11044-RRR4A 1.8mm 88mm bore 11044-RRR4B GT Intake Gaskets 1617S-RRR45 Y3000 (Six steel gasket set for the inner and outer on the throttles)

The best turbo Nissan/Nismo sells is the GT Lemans. 62 trim comressor wheel in a .60 A/R TO4B compressor housing (still a bolt on for the RB26). Inconel CD79 trim turbine with a 15 degree cut back (clip) on the blades. A/R .64 exhaust housing with large inlet. Max compressor efficiency is a whopping 77%. Rated for a 125% power output at 1.6 kg/cm of boost on a stock motor. I've used them before, and they're awesome, but with a retail price of 188,000 yen each, they're about the same price as the HKS 2530 kit. A little more lag than the 2530, but better power output up top. They're specified as a race-only turbo for circuit use, but I've had a set on a 600hp daily driver for over three years.

Walbro 255 L/hr in line for about $100 US, and big Bosch, AKA Big Money.

If they're really tight, I drill two holes and tap to 6mm X 1.25 and use a puller.

Yes.

The RB26 exhaust valves are sodium filled and made of inconel.

Ditto!

You're right. They were doing it in the States because they saw all the retards in Japan doing it and thought "Oh cool JDM! Let's copy it!" without knowing why they were doing it. Why would you put an L20 head on an L28, or an RB20 head on a 25 or 26?. If you are in the States and have a complete 2J; then you paid money for a 1J head and put it on the 2J (which has bigger ports and valves), You are stupid and a victem of JDM. We call that Rice when people copy stuff out of Japan for no other reason than it's the "in thing" in Japan. A Toyota MARK 2 IS A FOUR DOOR SEDAN THAT COMES WITH WITH THE 1JZGTE IN THE TOURER V MODEL OR THE GT MODEL IN THE OLDER JZX 81 MODEL. I am not talking about the MK II Supra. The issue is stated above about swapping the high flow head on the engine for one that flows less. The 1J head also outflows the displacement (many Japanese engines do), so you would see a power increase by upping the displacement. You would see a huge power increase by swapping the entire engine, so what is the point of swapping the low-flow head on to the high displacement engine? Engine management in Japan; Rice in the States. This is a stupid mod IN THE CASE OF THIS ENGINE! That's the point. I wouldn't know because I've never built an L31 (diesel crank stroker) without also adding a big cam, porting, and larger valves to optimize the flow for the 3.1 liter block (who makes a 3.1 with no other mods?). As far as boring goes: Power is directly proportional to the surface area of the piston. Therefore, If you bore the L to 89mm for the 3 liter displacement, you are gaining more power from the added piston area and unshrouding the valves than from the additional stroke/displacement. The Supra with the 7MGTE that HKS ran 7 second quarter mile times in many years ago was destroked to 2.7 liters... I'm not going to expound on this with ten pages of math to bore the crap out of 99% of the people on this board. The point is this: I was telling you why just adding displacement doesn't do much for you, power wise, without additional mods, in most motors. Then I went on to explain why the 26 head would work well on the 3.0 (because it outflows the stock 26). Then I defended the 26 because of baseless claims of unstreetability (not a word) due to lack of torque. One of the guys I teach recently built a 500hp Toyota 4AG (1600cc) with head mods of my design, 300+ degrees of cam duration, low compression, huge injectors, 30+ psi of boost.... He drove it to work every day until we cracked the cylinder on the dyno at 11,000 rpm. It had very low "torque", but tremendous acceleration, and good enough manners to daily drive it. Another 4A at this power level I know of is destroked for less rod angle, and has no problems with the cylinder. Short stroke also has a place. Then I went on to tell you why the 1J head on the 2J block was popular. You never wanted to learn anything from the get-go. All you want to do is argue. It's simple (maybe no so simple) math to figure out why a head that flows a maximum (X) amount of air wil flow X amount of air, no matter the displacement under it, with all other varriables the same (vacuum, bore size, etc). If you have the same volume of air in a large and small cylinder and compress both to 10:1, which one has more compression in PSI? If you can figure it out, you have the answer to the lost power situation. You don't want to hear it because you're stuck in the "bigger must be better" box. Therefore, I won't bother to explain it. Last post on this thread.