Bluto

That is the most digusting thing I have ever seen. Ever. Some one buy that thing and crush it immediately.. Do not pass go, do not collect 200 dollars, go directly to the junkyard and watch it be set free. It needs to be put out of its misery.. poor wretched soul. Sam

Good grief! My hard drive just crapped out on me too.. i was down for a week.. couldnt find a bloody hard drive under 120 gig to save my life! I couldn't even fill up the 40gig i had befor! What the heck do I need with three times that?! Darn computers, now I have to upgrade the ram too.. becuse its, uh.. the right thing to do.. yea, thats it.. Sam

ugg.. Most of my job involes work on semi trailers with refrigeration units and lemme tell ya, birds love to make nests in those things! I've ripped out a ton of nests with just eggs but now they are all hatching.. !! Every time I go near our trailers that havent moved in awhile they start tweeet'n like crazy! I can just see all the bad karma comin my way.. i just hope it doesnt invole my car! Sam

Is that R14? yuck... you need 2004.. hehe

Those are really sweet hoods... on L88/stingray vets! That has to be the most reproduced hood scoop ever! I think I have seen one on nearly every type of rwd chevy product(not to mention a few fords) I have ever seen! More than half the time it is a really poor install.. ie. zinc plated sheet metal screws! There are just soo many of em out there! haha Sam

Ok, I know you have a zx and that was what your original kit was made up for... I also know someone sold one of your kits on ebay and said it was also good for 1st gen cars.. If it is in fact good for 70-78 cars.. Sign me up! Ill even preorder if necessary.. no brackets/flanges/gaskets necessary.. i can handle that on my own. Oh, and.. email sent Thanks, Sam

Greg, Awesome info!! Sam

Very nice rb30t commadore video there also..

Somebody call the History Channel.. We need a documentary! LOL But not befor we get some flow numbers!!

Gah, that is a sick list of bikes...

Uhhh... wow I'm, surprised this hasnt popped up sooner? There has to be more than a few people with this setup. I'm going to be doin almost the exact thing to my car shortly and thats a disturbing picture.. Sam

Too funny, I read this thread after I got off work. Abit after I had to run a friend to his moms house to look for a few specialty tools to do some work to his car.. Sounds simple enough right? Well on the way I wanted to get his butt dyno calibrated to the na engine so I could get an unbiased opinion after I swapped to the l28et(next weekend or so). After a nice launce and abit of shifting thru the gears my throttle decided to get stuck wide open... YaY! After I realized what was goin on I shut it down but it was well into the red on the tach.. Whoops guess the throttle cable set up needs a little more tweeking! anywho.. once before when I had over reved the motor it had started running really rough like Zmefly had mentioned but it worked itself out like his did.. funny stuff for sure Sam

Has anyone seen this wheel for sale in a wide variety of bolt patterns and offsets? As in something that would fit the stock set up hubs for a z. Im looking for roughly a 16x9. http://www.finishlineracingequip.com/bass_IMCA.htm The one on top. I have found this style and will end up using it if I dont find the above rim in something thatll fit http://www.diamondracingwheels.com/RoadRaceSeries.htm The avanger series Thanks, Sam

Ahhh, so its Riverfest now.. that explains alot.. hehe Looks like it might be promising depending on who else gets on board.. Sam

Sweeeet... PM sent, Thanks! Sam

A post I made in another section got me thinking of the road trips Ive been on, gawd I love a good road trip, so I thought I'd set the stage for some good road stories(always my favorite). Here are a few of mine... 2 guys, a sweet old ford wagon with a 351w... chicago to mexico city, 40 hours each way, no stops along the way.. No, I wasnt running drugs. heh 2 guys, a chevy pick 'em up truck(and a 510 for the ride home), 2600 miles in 2 1/2 days Did I mention I love road trips? I even went on a road trip while on a road trip.. chicago to N Carolina to visit friends then NC to michigan to party with some chicas then back to nc then back to chicago again.. Soo.. I'm sure you guys have some good ones.. let em rip! Sam

Sooo Mike, I have to ask.. Why go through all the trouble to repair a signifigant amount of rust on a banged up shell? I'm sort of going through the same pains myself(watching my car rust away) but im in Illinois and your in Cali.. Tim mentioned that there is no such thing as a rust free 240 anymore and that may be the case.. But in just my casual browsing for a new shell(which is low on my list of things to do but it never hurts to keep an eye open) I have found a few nice examples that I have tried to aquire, one in texas and one down state aswell as numerous examples in Cali and other SW states, usually under a grand, that I havent even gone for since the cost of the shell and the fuel to get myself a heavy truck and trailer out that way is cost prohibitive at the moment. But this is positively something I will be doing in the future. Hopefully with the help of some of the huge HybridZ community that there is in Cali I will be able to find a shell (maybe something race preped with a cage.. heh) get out that way grab it, see the sights, have a few beers and a few laughs and get back on the road.. I cannonballed it out to New Mex. for my brothers dime with another friend.. 2 guys 1300 miles x 2 in 2 1/2 days.. lotsa fun If I can find a 71 2 door 510 with just a little quater panel rust than theres gotta be a nearly rust free Z out there for me.. heh Phew, didnt mean to get so long winded.. topic has been on my mind alot lately(my z looks sad ). But anyway.. Just to see if ya can, intense devotion to that particular car or something else that I'm missing? Good luck, Sam btw.. that patch panel looks awesome!

Humm, couldnt find any info on the upcoming one, just how much fun people had at the previous ones.. have a link? 93x's site is a pita to navigate too, if its on there I couldnt find it.. heh Sam

Anyone here been to or going to this years festival? A friend has been talking about wanting to go.. Just wondering what the general atmosphere is like.. everything go relatively smoothly etc.. Worth the ticket price..? I love how they got more expensive.. hehe Thanks, Sam http://www.bonnaroo.com/swf-txt/base.html

No? Heres a hint.. It bolts to the engine but underneath something else. Kinda vague I know.. This might help out a little bit... It doesnt like to sit in solvent very long! Now I know I'm not the only yoyo who has destroyed one of these befor so some of you may be catching on at this point. But for those of you who havent, heres another hint.. Ok, ok.. I thought I could come up with a clever analogy but I was drawing a blank! I'm just gonna have to come clean and spit it out.. I fragged my timing chain tensioner! Left it in the solvent abit too long( turned nice and rubbery and very brittle ) and now its junk. So I need one, I thought my brothers dime might have one but I couldnt remember if the timing stuff was still on the old l20 block, anyway, it wasnt... Anywho, anyone have one in decent shape along with the rubbery washer they wouldnt mind parting with? shipping plus beer money( my favorite currency) or whatever of course... Thanks, Sam

Heres a decent write up for a 3rd gen rx7 and a S2000 button.. some of it isnt relavent but its very thorough. I think its been mentioned here befor or somewhere, but the s2000 start button fits very well in the lighter hole with abit of triming. Push Button Start Installation Instructions Last updated: September 2, 2002 (Editor's note: Jon wrote this for the start button from a Honda S2000 (i.e.- he got it at a Honda dealer). If you have an aftermarket one like the Ignited button, the procedure may vary, so please check the wiring diagrams and other instructions that come with your button. Other differences may occur as well (e.g.- might not need to enlarge the cig. lighter hole). From: Thomas, Jon (Jon.Thomas@dayzim.com) Date: 07/03/2001 04:25 PM Parts & Tools: OEM S2000 button auto relay w/4 blades (bought mine at Radio Shack, 30 amp minimum, around $5) spool of 20 awg and 12 awg wire many wire butt connectors (various sizes, some with and some without insulation) various wire taps and blade connectors very small shrink wrap mounting media (used super glue and 3M tape) Dremel tool to slightly enlarge cig lighter hole (necessity) wire tester (very helpful) Install Time: takes appox. 4 hours for complete job Install cost: Total - approx. $50 Assuming you have all of the parts, these are the steps you should take to do the install. By the way, I am not responsible for you vehicle or your installation procedures. These are the steps that I took and if done correctly should give you the same results. Disconnect negative battery terminal Dismantling dash - First thing to do is take off all dash parts surrounding the steering wheel (including gauge cluster and of course the housing surrounding the steering column). The gauges will have to be unhooked as well as the cig lighter and the pop up headlight switch. Check the better RX-7 How To sites if you would like help dismantling this part of the car (that is what I did). Prepping the button - You will need to open the switch to verify exactly which leads go where and compare them the wiring diagram that we have provided, double check the configuration. We cut off the plastic (used for the factory S2000 harness) surrounding the 5 leads with the Dremel tool. We cut off the two leads that are not used inside the button in order to allow more room to connect wires to the remaining 3 leads (which you will notice is not that much room, we actually bent them slightly apart too). Of the remaining three leads, the middle one should be the common power lead for the light and the button. The lead on one side will be the ground for the light where as the other lead will be the lead for the button going to the relay (see diagram). At this point you will want to attach your 20awg wires to all three leads with bare/un-insulated butt connectors. We used three different colors of wires (ex. red for power, black for ground, green for the relay), this made it easier later on to distinguish the switch leads. Leave plenty of wire attached to the leads just in case you need it later on. Take the shrink-wrap tubing and place it around the connections so that the leads never touch and short out. We then wrapped the wires in 5†of wire loom to keep them all together and easier to work with. You can then set the button aside for later mounting. Prepping the mounting location – You must first remove the cig. Lighter and all associated pieces, save and set them aside for now. The remaining hole is too small to accommodate the button. So, we took the Dremel tool with a grinding attachment and ground down the inner edges of the hole until it fit perfect (btw don’t breath the burning ABS plastic fumes, they are toxic). Take off a little at a time and keep trying to see if it fits. Remember it is better to go slow instead of taking a bunch of material off and making the hole too big. Stop when you are able to slide the button through the hole and notice that it fits flush with the seat just snug (it does not need to be tight). Mounting the button – Take the button and place it in the hole. We made sure the words are facing upwards correctly and applied a little bit of super glue on the back of the chrome ring of the button. This helped it from not turning inside the hole. Next we wrapped the button housing with one piece of 3M double-sided tape and placed the original plastic cig. lighter heat shield around the button, securing it with the two screws (the plastic housing may only touch the button housing in a few spots). We also wrapped tape around the back of the button and the screwed in mount from the cig lighter. This helped to hold the back of the button. You now have the button mounted in its new home. You can now turn the gauge cluster over to see what it is going to look like (sweet isn’t it). Wiring the key switch harness - Since you have all the dash parts off, you should be able to see the harness that is running into the key switch assembly. The harness runs under the steering column and to the left side of the column and then down the column from there (just follow it from the key hole and you will find it). Detach the harness at the back of the key switch. You will need to cut one wire from the harness and tap into another. Cut the 12 awg starting wire on the key switch harness. It will be a black wire with a blue stripe (see wiring diagram). Once the cut has been made, tape off the end that is going into the key switch. Next, take a 36†long piece of your 12 awg wire and connect it to the other end of the black and blue wire you just severed, use a shielded butt connector. Next tap into, DO NOT CUT, the black with green stripe wire with another 36†long piece of 12 awg wire & wire-tap. Re-connect the factory harness into the key switch. Wiring the relay –Bring in the gauge cluster with the newly mounted switch. Select a home for the relay, we choose to 3M tape it to the back side of the upper gauge cluster supports (but don’t stick it in place yet, just know where you are going to put it so you can trim all the wires accordingly). Run the wire form the start button switch to the relay using female blade connectors, taking care to route them under supports and such. You don’t want to crimp or pinch any of these wires when re-assembling the dash. Use the wiring schematic for details. Now run the middle wire from the button to something that is powered up by the “ON†position of the key switch (WARNING do not use the “ACC†position, the starter will work but the engine will not start). We tapped into the cruise control power lead (which you have to test to get the right wire on the cruise harness, I believe it was the third from the left, but double check it). The last wire on the button goes to a common ground. The other blade on the relay also goes to a common ground. .BTW, we tapped both grounds (button & relay) into the Cruise Control ground. The last two 12 awg wires will need to go up to the relay. Connect these using female blade connectors also. Test – Place the ground cable back on the battery and do not tighten. Place the key in the ignition and turn to the “ON†position. Push the start button!!! It should start right up. Turn the engine off and finish up. If it does not start recheck all connections including the battery. Reassemble dash – Put the dash back together. Note: The switch was $30 from http://www.handaaccessories.com or http://www.handaparts.com, which are direct factory OEM parts. We wired it so the key has to be in the run position, when in that position the button can be pushed to start the engine. If I turn the key to start (factory) it does nothing but spring back to the run position. The light for the switch comes on when the key is in the accessories position. ________________ Date: Wed, 1 Nov 2000 08:31:52 +0100 From: "Bernd Kluesener" (bernd.kluesener@stt.se) At the ignition switch: Black/red wire: start Black/white wire: run Black wire: supply from battery (2 cables) Blue wire: accessories (cig lighter, audio system etc) Black/yellow wire: wiper motor, power window, sunroof, ABS _________________ From: Thomas, Jon (Jon.Thomas@dayzim.com) Date: 07/03/2001 03:48 PM The relay is a definite need for this mod. We did notice that on the Mazda wiring diagram it is pulling 40 amps. We used a 30 amp relay just b/c it was easier to come by. If you can find a 40 amp relay I would use it. With me living in Phoenix, AZ, i don't believe I am going to have much of a starting problem, so it wasn't too big of a concern for me. Someone that lives elsewhere might be a little more concerned with the amperage. _________________ (Editor's note: I sent an email to TDSA, which is where I bought my Ignited brand push button. Here is their rsponse. --Steve) From: TDSA SPORTS (tdsasports@yahoo.com) Date: 07/25/2001 12:37 PM > I bought one of your start buttons, and had a > question: The install instructions say that a > 40 amp relay is required. But what are the specs? > I have found a couple of kinds: SPDT, and SPST. > > What kind is required? Any 30 amp - 40 amp relay is acceptable.

Ahh, right on Pat.. That makes 2 new local z guys just today (freddy in chicago was the other, doesnt post here that I know of tho) Im goin to K.C.C., Im sure you've heard of it.. Are you going to school in champaign? Sam

Hey Georgia Flash 75V8, sent ya a pm, I dont have a jtr book but if you or someone else who happens to have one and has a second (and a nice scanner..) can e-mail me a pic Ill see what I can do. Sam

I can use the practice! Im working on my assoc. deg in CAD but unfortunately I wont have anymore drafting clases till the fall.. soo, Ive been drawing most everything in sight.. I have ACAD '04, autodesk and inventor at my finger tips so the sky is pretty much the limits (well that and skill vs. time) So if anyone has anything they need done, the more interesting/challenging the better, lemme know. Sam

"Yes, as a matter of fact this is an original Hitler soapbox.."