misterZ

I never tried the squeeze bottle but can attest the pot is very effective for a good sinus cleanse; especially on those days the pollen count is up and you can feel that migraine coming on from the sinus pressure. You have a long road ahead of you w/ the allergy shots but my son seems to be doing much better after 1 1/2 years of the shots! Although, part of your relief may be 'mental' knowing you're being treated for your sufferage but my son did start feeling a noticeable difference after the first couple of months of the shots; yes, time will tell... hang in there.

Sweet! Do you know of any issues w/ the CF BRE dam? I'm trying to picture this: ... are there "L" brackets or what is used to attach it to the valance and are they visible? I like the look of the BRE but also show my car and don't want it to look cheesey. Do you have any pics you can post? Thanks!

Can this be done on the car or do you have to remove the rack?

Well I tried to search for an answer and have waited a week for MSA to get back to me... can anyone tell me if the (240Z) BRE air dam will fit the 280Z valance? If not, is there a comparable product on the market for the 280Z? I prefer the BRE dam but will settle for an MSA Type III nose if I can't find one (I know, from one extreme to the other... ha). Thanks,

I read your thread prior to posting; I had already ordered (280Z) poly bushings from MSA but they're on BO; I'm wondering if I have the 240Z rack though and need to change my order. As for the spacers, I don't have access to a welder and can't see this being necessary if I have the right combination of rack/bushings(?). I just need to determine which rack I currently have. : /

After searching for info on the 240Z rack swap in a 280Z I found conflicting information as to which rack has the shorter ratio. I've read where quite a few 280Z owners swap the 240Z rack for (slight) quicker response; however, also read the reverse where 240Z owners used the 280Z rack. Also, I'm wondering if a previous owner already made the swap in my S30 as the bushings look fairly new but the whole rack moves in unison; suggesting maybe someone installed 280Z rack bushings on a 240Z rack (I did read about the spacer mods folks did to tighten up the rack). As best as I could determine from past posts, the easiest way to tell which rack I have is to use a magnet as the 240Z rack is aluminum and the 280Z rack is steel(?). I'm going to check this tonight when I get home as I cut a deal for a good used 240Z rack that I may not need. Thanks,

ROFLMAO I'm w/ JDM and would have to have a new GTR but the Super7 has always been a favorite of mine, light and nimble; I guess that would be my track car.

Some people have all the luck and stuff falls in their lap ... grats on the rare find and good luck with the project; although, it doesn't sound like much of a project to get it on the road from what you described. Btw - check the firewall seam under the dash as I've read that's the source for rusted floors/wet interior.

Both my son and I missed aziza's car . I felt like they copied Star Wars in that FF4 was more a prequel to Tokyo Drift... I think it was in the first movie Dom and Letty were somewhere (beach?) and Dom says he pictures them in Mexico someday (reference to FF4), then when Dom is saying goodbye to Han in FF4 he makes the comment 'I hear they're doing some radical stuff in Tokyo these days'. It is what it is and just entertainment but they still left it open for a FF5 in the end.

This seems the most logical and will try and check it tomorrow night or this weekend and let you know (I'm falling behind on the honey-do list and wife's patience is wearing thin ). Thanks!

Never answered my PM but I found one off a Tercel that will work.

Nissan 350Z color A17 hands down out of all the colors you posted.

aziza, I saw the movie this past weekend and watched intently for any sign of your Z to no avail. The closet thing was a red (first glance, and it was quick, looked like a 280ZX) car parked 2nd or 3rd in line at Letty's funeral(?).

I don't think so as I'm sure I got the right struts (don't recall the nomenclature); we jacked up that side and all seems well with the strut & spring but I can't exactly duplicate the noise while off the ground. It seems to be getting worse now and rattles even on smooth roads--very annoying. I'm disappointed in myself for not researching enough before installed as now I think I need the bump spacers. Doh!

Is there a good after-market fuel pump or swap for the S30? I've suspected this for some time only b/c it takes 2-3 tries to start the (cold) engine and keep running on it's own w/o pumping the pedal. Once running, it's smooth w/ good idle... purrs like a kitten.

My fuel mileage is 20 but I drive hard (14 mi one-way to work); no visible leaks or discoloration and the car appears and drives mechanically sound. I've only owned it about 5 mos but when I drove home from purchase and stopped 1/2 way (75 mi trip, mostly highway) to pee and have a smoke, I experienced the heat soak for the first time but thought it was bad gas or something else, i.e., poor fuel delivery or bad plugs. Of course, it cleared up once I got moving but I immediately called the seller and he indicated he never experienced such a thing. You are correct about gas `n go; no issues, and yes, if allowed 30 min< it's fine... but sometimes I don't have the extra/needed time to cool off. The car has never ran/got hot under my ownership but the seller said he had problems overheating bringing it back from CA (Apr 08) but a new fan clutch resolved that problem--he claims it never got red. When I had the car up on the rack for tire rotation I got a good look at the underside and it appears there had been some engine work at some point as the freeze plugs on the driver/injector side appeared newer/cleaner (as in replaced) than the opposite side of the block. The injectors look good but come to think of it, I did notice today some heat discoloration on the fuel rail between 3-4 (like you see on chrome headers sometimes) but likely from age(?). I might try a colder thermostat and see if that helps. I'm also going to try to make this year's DNI so I can have others take a look, discuss mods and offer suggestions--I wouldn't hesitate driving this car anywhere but GA is so close. Thanks for all the good info!

So, I've read heat soak, or as I like to call it, 'vapor lock' (carb talk), is an inherent problem w/ the L6 EFI; what can I do to alleviate this problem? It's frustrating to drive 10 mins to lunch only to come out and the car is very hard to start and keep running... spittin' & sputtering until I can get in gear and move a bit (getting airflow thru the grill to cool things off) before it clears up and dissapates the heat. I plan to order the vented inspection lids from MSA, more for looks than the claimed functionality of helping with this problem. Thanks in advance, mister

If it's the stock 280Z cable, I can't use. When converting [`77-78] to rear disc brakes, it requires the 240Z cable. Thanks for the offer!

Looking for a source for a 240Z emergency brake cable required to complete the rear disc conversion on a 280Z or willing to purchase a used cable in good working condition. Thanks,

http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/SWR02

My daily used to be a `95 Hardbody XE auto VG30E but passed down to my son. I bought it used almost 8 yrs ago w/ 100K mi, changed the oil every 3-5K mi, added a K&N air filter and new tires (<10K mi); changed the water pump and timing belt @ 135K. I just turned it over @ 150K and it still runs strong/shifts hard, no leaks and a good solid all-around truck. I can attest the motor is bullet-proof but I don't know about the mounts; I'm sure you can do it--go for it and good luck! mister

Very nice work and looks great! Can I place my order now? I like the idea of a hybrid nose and actually thought of retro-fitting or finding a fabricator for an Aston Martin DB5 nose on an S30.

My bad, I had two windows open and posted to the wrong thread; it was intended for a different non-tech board. Please delete! mister

I was told the area indicated in your picture on the pillars is a 'known' fault caused by stress at the weld seam. Mine are cracked (thru the paint) on both sides. Is there a sure way to eliminate this problem? mister

My dad told me that MANY years ago... but you beat me to the punch! The organization now known as Nissan Motor Company began its life as DAT Automobile Manufacturing and until the name was changed relatively recently all cars which came from the factory were known as Datsuns. The name is derived from the first initials of the three original founders, Den, Aoyama and Takeuchi. The company produced its first experimental car in 1912 and began full production of light sedans in 1915. DOT SON KNEE SAWN (rhymes with dawn)