misterZ

Ok, haven't tried that yet but after some reading decided I want to tackle changing the oil pump; my Chilton manual makes it sound easy (3 steps I think)--rotate #1 to TDC, drain oil/drop pan, remove pump--fill new pump with fresh oil, install is reverse. After discussions w/ friends that have done this on their domestics, they cautioned me about alignment issues w/ the distributor and were surprised I don't have to pull the motor to get to the pump(?). How difficult of a job is this for a simple backyard mechanic (<-- term used loosely)? Most of the related posts to my problem on here (low pressure/whine) point to a bad sending unit or gauge; already performed the manual pressure gauge test and seems to validate the readings on my dash gauge. I still have some pressure but the whine still has me concerned and hope it's not tranny related.

This is what I needed to hear... I was debating whether to use the MSA Type I, Type III or BRE. I think I've decided on the BRE look w/ matching spoiler for my car and presume I'll feel the same results. You're not kidding it's a somewhat scary feeling at higher speeds as it does feel light like I'm going airborn soon. Thanks for the aero confirmation!

Whew... I feel better now about my 132 psi--Comrade, let us know if you get it running and a warm reading. You really don't want that L24e ... don't give up! Never surrender the et!!...or sell it to me! IMO--dump the 4-speed and get a 5-speed from a 77-78; you'll be glad you did and you can find them here on occasion at a good price!

Yeah, you can hear it under the hood and seems to be coming from the top of the engine; however, the mechanic I had look at it suspects it's coming from the lower part of the motor. It's difficult to pinpoint due to the resonance from all the metal-to-metal parts. Also, the trans/shifter feels a bit different as if a little 'dry' and stiff. You don 't hear the whine after initial start up; just after a few minutes when the engine is warm and you rev it a couple times the noise appears and stays.

Here are the results of the compression test: 1. 138 psi 2. 137 psi 3. 132 psi 4. 137 psi 5. 130 psi 6. 128 psi The plugs look normal on all cylinders with exception to 5 & 6 had (wet) oil residue around the threads at the base of the plug and the seats on the block; however, the plugs were not oil fouled. So, I may have some blow-by. A couple weeks ago the engine started making a subtle 'whine' similar to a noisy automatic transmission and I noticed my oil pressure had dropped considerably (in half). With a manual gauge screwed in, the engine produces 0-18 at idle/stoplight, and ~30 to 45 under power (and at higher revs). Prior to all this, oil pressure was consistently in the 70-80 range on my interior gauge; however, at a stoplight or idle would fall to ~30-45 psi. The mechanic that usually works on my car suspects the oil pump is bad. What other things should I look for to pinpoint my problem or confirm this? Otherwise, the car still runs good/strong and has smooth idle but I'm afraid to drive it with the low oil pressure and the subtle whining. There is no visible smoke or burnt oil smell coming from the car.

More of the interior; surprisingly the dash only has one crack that's very repairable. Looks like we'll need a new ignition switch/key set since it's all rusted (strange). The rear seat is near perfect and hatch area isn't too bad... overall the interior is in nice shape. We have family in town visiting but the goal is to get the carpet out and inspect any floor rust this weekend; as time allows.

You may be in luck Tony as my son wants to drop a 1JZ in it; `course we may be old and gray by then, wait, I'm already there... ha. Maybe in a couple years but we'll keep you in mind. Thanks for the info!

My one and only experience with the exact same car wash you described ripped my chrome side (rain groove) window trim off in front of my eyes... GASP!!!... omfg I freaked! I actually rolled down the passenger window and reached out between passes to keep if from getting wrapped around the drum. When I got out (wet) I was able to get the trim back on my car but it also got twisted in the process of being stripped off that it doesn't fit exact (bowed out slightly). Never again! I always hand-wash but it was the day I purchased the car and stopped to fill up on the way back; I got the car wash to clean off the road grime from the trip. The force I felt from those rollers going down my car was nerve racking (I could envision denting as a result)... maybe I was one of the lucky ones as I could see this happening to your car--as you suspect--if your metal is thin; but, if you're going to pursue this, I have to agree with Mr. Maudlin:

I'll post more this weekend. The seats are out and starting to remove the carpet and install a new fuel pump. Project `78 Fairlady (S130/RHD) 280Z: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread...11#post1014511

130K driven like it was meant, fast around town (35-45 zone); 14 mi one-way to work thru downtown w/ ~ 10 lights and a long stretch of parkway @ 45+. I don't rev the engine; I don't need to as it purrs like a kitten and roars like a tiger--only thought that was necessary to keep a poor running engine from stalling . I need to change the plugs so I'll buy a gauge while I'm at it and check all the cylinders.

Oh well, I went w/ black and looks pretty good... <--- see sig above.

The gamble paid off, never called as I was picking it up regardless. Turns out it has an NC title already!