tannji

Dell owns Alienware, FYI.

Hey guys, came across an engine that has been stored since 1999 with almost zero miles. Price looks to be very good, the engine is obviously spotless. I am concerned about the affects of time on rings, seals, and bearings. I have not asked the seller yet if it was stored dry, or in any way "set-up" for storage. What should I be looking for to decide one way or the other? I would imagine that the head is not much of a concern, but I was hoping to initially not have to pull pistons from the block, let alone replace bearings or seals. It is a 4 cylinder, no idea if that matters, other than I have heard that SBC's can damage seals from the weight of the crank if left sitting without being cranked. Thanks, tannji

That was a mighty big post... and well put in relatively few words too. I agree completely... I have had more than enough drama in several gaming communities to last me the rest of my life. I also found that many people who simply itched to fight all the time online were sane in the real world. Its a shame to hear of someone dying like that.. but thanks for the perspective. tannji

Good to hear the healing is proceeding well! I had a serious one when I was a little younger than you, broke an axle, got tossed from a 10-speed while pushing as fast as I could push it. I ended up with fractures to the skull, eye orbit, fingers, 5 toes on one foot, a couple ribs, and a ruptured spleen. The worst part by FAR was the road rash. I was forced into showering occasionally, or I honestly wouldn't have. That being said, I think the thought of destroying a jaw like you did bothers me worse than what I went through. Enjoy some home cooking and time with the Z, school wont be going anywhere:icon12: tannji

If anyone has not had a satisfactory response or solution... you could look into something form the gaming world... as long as you are running a USB capable machine. Look at the Nostromo: http://catalog.belkin.com/IWCatProductPage.process?Product_Id=157024 As many keys as you would need, in an ergonomic package. The real kicker is you can configure any of the keys to do what ever you want, change the keystoke value, change it from a single key to a combination of key stokes, either as a multi-press, or a timed, sequential series of stokes, or even a toggle, on press enable, on press disable... or a momentary toggle, on press enable, on release disable. I used one once in a very "Hybrid" fashion... I took a force-feedback joystick with several dead buttons, lopped off most of the stick, made a pedestal mount, and mounted the Nostomo keypad to the stick nub/pedestal. Joystick axis control with 52 key combinations in a ergonomic natural configuration. Worked a treat... and convinced several of my gaming rivals that I was cheating in some uber, undefinable manner. As someone suggested earlier, the keypad could be strapped to your thigh.... very convenient... and you could even slave mouse movement to the D-pad, if I am not mistaken.

you dont want to try it, lol. That lag would get you killed, make moving a trial, and might even lag the other players, depending on the network code of the game.

Came across a site that has some pretty interesting info, sorry for the title, but the site is just that varied. It seems to be mainly a rotary engine site, with a slant towards rotary-powered light aircraft, but has some interesting takes (with pics and nice 3-d models) on mechanical or electronic fuel injection and slide-valve throttles. Also some very nice how-to's on using CF or FG for fabbing, particularly for intake runners. Here is the main site: AREN[/url] Intake design page, including making slide throttles and FG intake parts: Intake And specifically the CF Intake parts guide: CarbonFibre Intake Hope its usefull to someone, I found it a very interesting read. tannji

Played some fairly serious UT as well.... but mostly EO mod, or half-EO. Started 2 months after the game came out, got fairly serious a year or so later, and still play for fun. I have the dubious distinction of being one of the better players around who doesnt use the keyboard, started off in noobish fashion trying to play with a joystick (LOL) and never got used to the keyboard. Now I play with a mouse in the right hand and a joystick in the left. Sounds ridiculous I know, but to this day I get accused of botting or being too serious (playing too hard or making it not fun for casuals) for various servers. I will always enjoy the FPS style better than MMORP or strategy gaming, which probably what kept me from becoming hopelessly involved in WoW. I have some small hope that the next UT will bring back the feel and glory of UT99... but I have 2K3 and 2K4 to temper my enthusiasm.

If any of the builders need welding mats or supplies, safety equipment, consumables, ect.... I would be happy to supply them at cost... some of which typically has high profit margins... let me know if I can help. tannji

True, but apparently, the gains are made in the area near where you lose traction and have to release the brakes somewhat to stop a skid.... these brakes should allow for better performance without the poor modulation of ABS, and would theoretically be an improvement over a "good driver" as well.

I have driven several Z's across the country with no problems, L28 and SBC. My current car was in the San Diego area when I bought it and drove back to Iowa. I averaged almost 26 MPG on the TPI 350, to boot.

On that note, would they take boost, and would there be an advantage to using them in a turbo setup other than the wow factor?

Check out the hood vents on this one = ) http://page4.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/d68113793

I played for 4 months, took a break, played for 3 more... and I have stayed away for the past 4 months or so. Fun for a while if you have existing friends to play with, or get in with one of the rare guilds that isnt full of kids and/or drama. After a while, the costs of playing (real-world, and virtual) add up. I just got tired of trying to stay geared up while people with either no job, or the willingness to spend big money on gold transfers enjoyed all the new content. I also began to feel like the game was getting stale... after getting revered in the BG's and farming Molten Core.... it just wasnt exciting, even if it was "New". Probably the most fun I had was in a BG Raid group... Now I just want to devote similar time and attention to my Z = ) tannji

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?cat=Electrical+Shop&pid=03473826000&vertical=TOOL&subcat=Work+Lights&BV_UseBVCookie=Yes This one works, I think. Also 1000 Watt for $19.99! tannji

Holy cow. I just deleted my comments on this thread.... nice thread idea... but once again..... Holy Cow. lighten up guys. tannji

I was getting set to pop for something along the lines of the MM175... kept getting close to a deal on used equipment and something would fall through. Then I got a chance to use the ThermalArc 210. Very impressed!! It uses tapped voltage, but it is macro and micro adjustment, so very much the same as infinite control... but the arc was very, very nice. I was able to get a feel for it and run a test quality bead very quickly, and that was in spite of poor lighting conditions. (bright light reflecting off the inside of my lense.) I have to say I like it better than the Miller, which is pretty much the benchmark these days. I dont think there is a MM135 equivalent, but the Fabricator 190 would run me about $700, only $150 more than the MM135. If I had a hard budget ceiling of $00-$600 tho, I would get the MM135. (definitely use the gas shielding.) tannji

I am going with the Toyota 2RZ 2.4 4-banger.... can be had from Ebay for $400 to $600 as a stripped motor, more if you want a complete pull. $6000 would put me in the range of 25-35#'s of boost.... probably 500+ hp when all was said and done. Not as light as the SR20, not as almighty as the LSx. Cheaper than either, with torque somewhere in-between the two.

I read the complete ARE site several times over a year ago.... hadnt been back since till now, was fairly disappointed to find they apparently have done no more with that car or have stopped updating the site. I LOVE the plenum he designed, seems to be a good technical piece and looks phenominal on the engine. You should ask your friend to give us an update if he can.... = ) They also have a fairly radical sump design there, but I dont see any further developement on that, either.... tannji

I have considered Toyota V-6 as well... but the RZ keeps me coming back, and it's aftermarket support has finally arrived, IMO. Perhaps if you are looking for catalogged performance kits, with every part already pre-chosen, or every possible combination already in someones car down the street... then ya... not there yet. (Although LC Engineering is getting pretty close to that, they have been a force in the older 22r series for a long time.) If you dont mind having to think through your upgrade parts, Paradise racing has or can source most of what you would want for a RZ rebuild with mundane or extreme performance in mind. Luis Corujo is a VERY busy man, but will take the time to thoroughly share his knowledge and experience, and he is constantly offering new performance parts and kits, with a heavy preference for the 2RZ/3RZ engine. I will probably drop a few quid in his pocket... I am looking for about 400 hp and a 7500 rpm or so redline, with a beefed up and lightened power-train... but with durability and drivability as the underlying theme. I have the 3.4 V6 in my 4Runner... and if I wernt going RZ, I could easily picture that under the bonnet of the Z as well.

Very good points. It would make an excellent "near-stock" engine. Probably fairly economical as well, as you mentioned. Keep the oil sump in mind though, I believe it is at least 12 inches deep, possibly a little more.... being a tall inline rather than a V, I think it will be a tight fit stock, not to mention the thought of having the sump taking on all speed bumps makes my teeth hurt. LC Engineering has dry sump and wet sump parts, good place to look for options or ideas for your own solutions. I plan on going the dry sump route myself... but fabbing much of it, LC's aluminum parts and kits could double or triple your budget. tannji

To my knowledge, no one has done a 2RZ/3RZ swap. I hope to be the first... but funds and time are constraining me. To be honest, I think the thought of a 4 cylinder Toyota truck engine puts a lot off people off, not sexy, not enough displacement, you know? On the negative side, it is an iron block and not as light or sexy looking as the SR20det. It also has a very deep sump that would probably have to be modified, and you have to source older trannies that dont handle 300+ hp very long, or go expensive with Supra-tt trannies. On the plus side, the engine is a beast, amazingly over-engineered, capable of decent hp stock, and insane power proportional to the budget. Paradise Racing is running a Celica or Corolla with over 1000 hp, and Chris Prado runs NOPI or Outlaw with over 1500 hp out of his. Being an in-line 4, you have exhaust and intake on opposite sides of the engine which makes plumbing turbos and IC's less of a head-ache. If you are going stand-alone ECU and need crank-position sensor wheels, it has that already. (36-2) Depending on the year, you have distributors, or DIS. The 3rz is a little torque monster (for a 4-banger) and the 2RZ has less stroke, making it more rev-friendly. I want one in my Z... and I am buying one as soon as I get my current 350 TPI setup running on MegaSquirt.

Sounds like the best of both worlds! Congrats to you and your wife, I hope the next 6 months go smoothly. (because ata minimum, the next 18 years or so get progressively more interesting, lol) tannji

Is there any reason not to use these after-market coils? Anyone know anything about them? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Accel-140018-Ignition-Coil-4-Tower-EDIS-Super-Coil-Pack_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33689QQihZ011QQitemZ320039219838QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

LOL, you could wave at my mother as you go by Aztec.... I should be out there in November for a visit. Had no idea that the hunting near Farmington was so good.... have a good hunt = ) tannji