tannji

Any welding? I have heard of several instances where that ended up frying something electronic and critical. Also perhaps your distributor took this opportunity to shell out?

I had a very similar setup in a prior Z, and 95 to 100 was about as fast as I felt comfortable pushing it. Granted, I was pretty happy with how fast I got to 100mph, but that was pretty much all she wrote, and mine did top out in less distance than a 1/4. I never dynoed that car, so how much this actually relates to your car I do not know.

My least favorite thing about my Z is its sunroof... some prior owner not only had one installed, he apparently went out of his way to install the biggest one mathematically possible to fit in a Z roof. I do not want to weld it at this point, so I am considering a metal replacement of the glass, or metallic tint, anything to mask the disfigurement. When I drove it home from San Diego to Iowa, I stopped at the first Target I found to cut up and tape into place a window shade underneath the glass. I couldn't cope with the idea of a June trip across Southern Cal, Nevada, and then the Midwest with the sun beating on my head. Now the problem is just that it looks so wrong. Keep it original! Probably the only time you will hear that from me, lol.

LOL, it got hacked... too fitting.

Just my two cents here.... it's been a long-held rule that 30 hz, or 30 events of any kind was the limit for the human eye to detect... but there has been a long standing debate in the gaming world about this, because many serious gamers/hardware modders were convinced otherwise. When gaming, the FPS performance (Frames Per Second that your video card will render the games graphics) is important, especially to the "Shooter" genre... if you are running 30fps (equivalent in this discussion to 30hz) and your opponent was capable of 60 or 100+hz.... he had an advantage in the twitch response times. The difference between 30 FPS and 60 in most games is easily discernible, and for some players, the difference between 60 and 120 is noticeable as well. In the past few years there have finally been scientific studies that have muddied the waters, but at least proved that there was no set in stone limit for our ability to discern these minute and rapid changes. Almost completely off-topic, but it relates in that someone with decent eyes who is looking for these differences to begin with will probably have more latitude than you might think. More important in this instance would be the medium you use to display the oscillations... many devices will not show the cycle accurately, or will not be able to go from completely dark to completely lit and back again as fast as your signal does... and will appear to be constantly on, or will show a flicker with insufficient extremes for you to easily see. Anyone who has bought or considered buying an LCD monitor will know this phenomenon as "Ghosting"... pixels that can not cycle as fast as the input does, and therefore leave a ghost image trail behind moving images.

Guess I missed this in the 2007 SOTU message at MS&S forums:

Decent price, ok welder if you dont want to do aluminum. I was considering one of these a while back, but decided money wasnt better spent on mig welder, and getting a better tig when I could. High Freq and squarewave technology is nicer to have, even for mild steel.

this? http://www.geocities.com/projectzt/

Is that the new enclosure for the MS&S board plus a GPIO/CAN board, or something completely new and different?

I hear and comprehend... = ) Perhaps I should have stated explicitly that I want my setup CAPABLE of Handling up to 30#'s of boost... I dont anticipate actually running that, or at least not doing so other than in the rare track appearance. My more direct concern was with relatively high boost numbers, I am concerned about developing leaks at the shaft openings in a manifold as described above. Also, this is not going on an L28.. its going on a 2.4 liter motor for my 240Z, but a four-banger instead of the original 6 cylinder 2.4 engine. I am going with a complete custom head already proven on turbo'ed 2RZ's, as well as a cam ground specifically for a specific turbo, and appropriate pistons. (point of interest, the stock cam is good for about 900 hp on this motor... but I am not shooting for that, nor do I want to do what Paradise Racing and others did to get that kind of power from stock cams.) I am not really shooting for a specific performance number, nor boost number. I want to build within a certain spec, and then see what I can do with it with tuning and some custom intake work, hopefully done by myself. I know some of my limitations, and intend to find the rest during this project... but I am a little concerned about the intake above and leaking boost.

This exact setup has been on my mind for quite a while... I find myself running though various aspects of it when I am trying to fall asleep, lol. I have been wondering about a setup like this; how much of a concern is the bearing area for the shaft... would this be a significant area for loss of boost pressure (I am thinking not) or is keeping the bearing for the shaft lubricated a potential problem, due to boost pressure possibly blowing lubricant out of the bearing? I am looking at an application running variable boost, maxing out eventually at around 30#'s...

Jesus.... THAT is a Grumpy post if I ever saw one....! Just printed it out to hard copy, TYVM = )

You will not find the MM 140 Auto much cheaper than that, and almost certainly not with free shipping. If you are completely set on the Miller machine, I would go for it! However, if there is still the slightest openess to suggestion, try to get someone to demo the Lincoln 140c for you. Direct competitor to the Miller 140, it is particularly good for those of us working on cars, as its arc start is very smooth, and I was able to get a better bead on thinner metal than with the Miller, as well as better wetting and penetration on metal thicker than its official spec allows for. Plus, the Lincoln has an optional spoolgun for aluminim welding that will run you about $200, which I installed in about 2 minutes.... PRIOR to reading the install instructions, lol. You can get a spoolgun for the Miller as well, but its more than twice as much, and I wouldnt use it. Last, the CURRENT machines from Lincoln are built much more durably than the equivalent Millers, cooling airflow is more logically layed out, and most of the circuit boards are trayed and encapsulated, meaning that they are protected from dust, metal residue, and moisture, any of which can kill your board and machine, and is not covered by warrantee. Just my take... if your still set on the Miller, grab that deal.... its still a very good machine at a very good price = )

shows as $79.99 for me.... is this an unadvertised special?

Well.... still dealing with intermittent starting... and I think it is moisture under the cap, or a bad connection somewhere in the ignition circuit.

Hey guys, could use some help here... Parked my 94 4Runner last night after driving around in the slush of yesterdays ice storm. Today I get no firing when cranking. New battery, fires energetically, but is either getting zero fuel, or no spark. I checked some obvious connections for coil, distrubutor, and spark leads, seem fine. Any tips would be appreciated, especially for checking for spark without damaging anything.... not sure if this system can safely be tested by arcing a wire to ground like an old vehicle can. thanks, tannji

WOW.... I loved that video, but it leaves me with a question. I have never heard "Hakosuka" pronounced... someone want to spell it phonetically or something for me? That has to be one of the sweetest sounding intake/exhaust combos I have ever heard as well. Too bad my plans include a turbo, I'll never hear anything like that out of my Z.

New spin on this old story... much better hype and marketing, I think..... http://hytechapps.com/ They claim to have developed a new process with a new classification of fuel gas, with wild properties. This is aimed at the metal-working industry and gas torches in particular, but they also claim to be running two test vehicles around, gas powered with an additive plumbed in through a supplimental injection system, which increases fuel efficiency by 30% or so. There are some interesting vids, but not much in the way of solid documentation or verification. Read/watch the part where they demonstate an Oxy/Acetylene type torch, and the claimed temp variations depending on the substance being cut. If its a fraud, its an intertaining one, and leaves me a little pissed off that this is the type of thing that should be worked for, but more effort is spent promoting fraud than developing tech.

Repost... but I watched it again for the shear quality.

LOL< my retired charactor has a few hundred gold and several mules full of varius mats... but he is on Silvermoon. He is also about 6 months out of date on patches.

Happy birthday dude! Health, Happiness, and many more years of Z-craft to you. = )

LOL, I was going to buy one, use it, and then donate it to the lender program. Noticed a HybridZ member was high bidder, and came here to post my intentions. So, never mind.... = )

If I saw that back when I first fell in love with the Z... I would have thought it was a Porche concept car, lol. Nissan needs to do a retro model, like so many other manufacturers have done recently. I am not really into Mustangs, but that newer model is good example of a modern retro, IMO. Cant say that I like it.... I like it less than the current 350Z, in fact. Too bad.

ACK!!! PBBTTTh.... BTC gets my vote too.

Gratz! and my best to the one who did most of the work