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bunkhouse

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Everything posted by bunkhouse

  1. bunkhouse
    If the original sender is corroded but still has elec. continuity, You can soak the sender in CLR for twenty-four to forty-eight hours and it will remove all the corrosion. I've revived a couple of senders that were so corroded the float wouldn't move.
  2. bunkhouse
    Ask over at Classic Z Car Club (classiczcars.com). They have a lot of members on the east coast and all Z owners hoard parts.
  3. bunkhouse
    Slide the pilot bushing onto the trans. input shaft and check the fit. In the pic above that shows the pilot bushing installed, what is that silver, shiny object just below the brass bushing?
  4. bunkhouse
    Describe "the same spot". Anything unique about that spot? Hill, curve, the same amount of miles till it dies?
  5. bunkhouse
    Water may have come with the recent fuel fill. Underground fuel tanks usually have a bit of water in the bottom. The water in the bottom can get stirred up when fresh gas is pumped into the underground tank from above. If you're filling your tank at the same time as the underground tank is being filled, water can be pumped into your tank. My Dad wouldn't stop at a station that had a tanker in the lot. I'd try a bottle of Heet in the tank and see if the problem returns.
  6. bunkhouse
    Water in the fuel?
  7. bunkhouse
    I'm glad to see there's enough bolt left to grab or weld onto. That simplifies things. I've found that alternating heat and cold along with any of the methods suggested above will usually free them up. I use a propane torch to heat the bolt and surrounding area. Then apply cold to the bolt only, as much as possible. CRC Freeze-Off works well but I've also used dry ice and plain ice. I have better luck using good Channel-Locks than Vise-Grips. If it won't crack loose on the first attempt, try turning it in(clockwise) then reverse direction. Keep turning it both ways while spraying penetrant onto it. The theory is the cold will shrink the bolt allowing penetrating fluid to seep into the threads.
  8. bunkhouse
    3 1/2 total psi. Anything much over 4 psi puts a strain on the needles and seats that can cause premature failure and flooding.
  9. bunkhouse
    There's a lot of electric fuel pumps to choose from. You'll want about 3 1/2 psi fuel pressure to feed the carbs. Most of the complaints about elec. pumps are the noise. Many have found the 1st gen. (1980ish) Mazda RX7 pumps work great. No pressure regulator needed and they're nearly silent. Reasonably priced at any auto parts store.
  10. bunkhouse
    Ask the question over there. They deal with gremlins in stock Z's all the time.
  11. bunkhouse
    Call it a repair or modification. Either way, it's not stock.
  12. bunkhouse
    Replacing the entire floor pan is a PITA compared to inserting a few patches. Replacement floor panels need massaging before they fit, especially the 280 floors.
  13. bunkhouse
    It is a close ratio box. The single mount on the left rear of the tail shaft housing is the clue. The gear ratios were the same from 80-83 with the exception of 5th gear. 1st.-3.062 2nd-1.858 3rd-1.308 4th-1.00 5th-.773,1980 5th-.745, 1981-1983
  14. bunkhouse
    We'd like to see more pics and info about the car and engine. Vin#, engine, and head #s, etc. It has a later 280 vented hood. I'd pull the head from the block and take a look at the rod and main bearings. Send the head out to check for warpage, change the valve seats along with a valve grind, new valve seals, timing chain, etc. You may find the bores and pistons looking good, which is usual. It would also be a good idea to pull the freeze plugs from the side of the block and clean out the coolant passages. Good luck and keep us posted of the progress.
  15. bunkhouse
    2020, Denver Colorado.
  16. bunkhouse
    Branson, Missouri.
  17. bunkhouse
    @Chickenwing Try nicoclub.com/datsunservice manuals. You may find the info you're looking for in the 73 manual do to the Dec. 73 build date.
  18. bunkhouse
    As I understand driveshaft angles, the most important thing is to be sure the front and rear angles are the same.
  19. bunkhouse
    I'd treat the area with a rust converter after ridding the area of loose rust. Ospho (it will seep into the seams) is my favorite but any acid (muriatic is effective but extreme, phosphoric is better) will convert the rust. Then a zinc rich primer and on to paint.
  20. bunkhouse
    A bit of research on Wikipedia shows that the sd33t was powered by a turbo diesel. That said, I'm going to assume that your L28 is fuel injected. Likely the injector on #6 is either not firing or gunked up based on the reported good compression and spark. A long screw driver used as a stethoscope will tell you if it's clicking like all the others. If it does click, the injector is probably plugged.
  21. bunkhouse
    The same problem exists on the underside with the undercoating. Air pockets that allow surface rust. Both surfaces (inside and out) need to be cleared of rust. Hopefully you won't find any spots that have rusted thru the sheet metal.
  22. bunkhouse
    I'd work on the ignition until you get a good hot spark on all cylinders then go back to the carb.
  23. bunkhouse
    The tar mat ("rubber") that has rust around the edges typically has rust under it too. You'll find many places that the mat didn't adhere to the sheet metal. Those air pockets allow surface rust to form on the bare sheet metal.
  24. bunkhouse
    Referring back to my notes, Dorman 38397 door hinge repair kit has bushings to tighten up your door hinges. They also work for the shifter.
  25. bunkhouse
    Congratulations. Tabco has the replacement rocker panels.
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