primaz

Another option is from Technotoytuning, https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/240z/long-nose-r180r200-cv-axles-240260280z

Could you post a video of how it operates in your car so we could hear the "noise at idle" that Godzilla Race Works forewarns anyone whom buys this tranny? Love to hear your thoughts after you have drove it a bit to get use to it, etc..

I used these general ranges and ended up with about 1.1 negative camber on all four corners, yes the car is lowered a good amount as it sits about 4 to 4.5 inches off the ground. The front wheels are +13 with 5" backspace, lip size 2.125", the rear wheels are the same: Front, Toe: 1/16” to 3/32” in Camber: 0 to 1 negative with 1 being preferred Caster: 4 to 6 positive. The actual number between 4 and 6 is not important, only that both sides are the same Rear Toe: 1/16” in Camber: 0 to 1 negative with 1 being preferred The best is rent or find a shop that has the offset wheel measuring tool as every brand of coil overs, springs, and cars are a little different. I had the stock fenders rolled to ensure that there were no sharp edges or rubbing. To me it is weird to hack up a Z and just run 245 or smaller tires; I do like flared Z cars and own an extremely flared Z with 345's and 285's, but when you flare it to me it should be to put much wider wheel than you can with a stock body. Yes you need to spend some money for coil overs, rolling the fenders to maximize the tire width but that will make the car handle better anyways and yes custom offset wheels are needed but to me better than cutting the car up spending money on flares, paint and body to just put the same size you can without flares.

I would recommend to upgrade with coil over setup. With good quality coil over's you would be able to go even wider than 245 since you have mild flares as I have coil overs on two of my stock body 240z cars with no flares, no rubbing and am running 245 wide tires on all four corners. If I had added flares to give 2-3" more space I would be able to over 255's and run 265 to 285's. You can see one of my 240z's with no flares running 245's on all four corners so if you have flares I would be wanting to go wider. Why cut the car and add flares if you are running the same size tires you can run without flares?

I would recommend to use 16" rims as then you can also upgrade brakes to large size with no issues. I am running 16" x 8" with 245 45's on all four corners with no flares no rubbing https://www.tirerack.com/tires/TireSearchResults.jsp?zip-code=94545&width=245/&ratio=45&diameter=16&rearWidth=235/&rearRatio=50&rearDiameter=15 You can get these all street legal tires: Yokohama A008P, Advan AN052, Bridgestone Potenza Sport, Pirelli Pzero Rosso, Pirelli Pzero Collezione, Pirelli Cinturato P7 in 245 45 16

Yes I had my body shop roll the fenders. I am not sure about the +25? I know that the 245 tires fit comfortably and the rears could go a size larger with the current offset but we wanted to be able to rotate the tires to get the maximum life of the tires. As long as you focus on three piece wheels then your choices open up to any custom offset you want. I agree the CCW's look nice, I have another car with their D240 3 piece wheel and those look cool. Also there are shops that will custom re-barrel a three piece wheel and you can typically take a 16" or even a 15" wheel and change it to a 17"; not sure if that opens up options on buying a used set of rims just for the center sections? CCW used to make custom 2 piece wheels but I think they stopped doing that as the orange Z was a 2 piece welded that cut the cost by half; some smaller wheel companies may offer that as well? but I like the 3 piece in the event you hit a pot hole hard/fast you can just replace the barrel.

BBK? I assume Big Brake Kit? As long as you are using a 16" or larger it should be fine. I am running the Arizona 12.5" big brake Wilwood kit on two of my 240z cars. Actually the larger the diameter the more tire options as new cars are not using 14" or 15" anymore. For 17" there are good tire options with the Michelin Pilot Sport which is a good tire https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Michelin&tireModel=Pilot+Sport+All+Season+4&frontTire=445YR7PSAS4XL&rearTire=44YR7PSAS4XL&vehicleSearch=false&fromCompare1=yes My Red 240Z is running ground control coil overs with the same Arizona 12.5" vented rotor big Wilwood brake kit and the same tires. 16" wheels has less options than the 17" I believe for the ultra low profile but there are still options in both 16" & 17". I would look carefully at the tire size and brand options and let that guide you between 16, 17" or even 18" if you are ok with the large diameter. You will need to see the options in different tire heights from 40, 45, 50 to help guide your preference. The right offset is critical to avoid rubbing and I would recommend to roll your fenders. I would recommend to spend the money for a 3 piece wheel which will be easy to replace an inside or outside barrel if you ever dent it vs the 2 piece welded versions I am running. A 240Z with 245 wide quality tires with coil overs will handle incredible, you will love the feel...

I am using CCW wheels, 16" x 8", offset +13, backspace 5", lip size 2.125" on the orange 240Z with BC Racing coilovers; that enables us to run 16x245x40 series tires on all four corners no flares and no rubbing. Every car can be slightly different as you may use different suspension such as different brand coilovers, springs, etc. By measuring using those wheel measuring tools you can determine what is the ideal offset, etc. that you can fit and thus the widest tires. Running 245's on all corners is very easy as there are others I have seen on the forums going much wider pushing their setup to the maximum. Our 240Z's with 245's, with good suspension and good quality tires handle extremely well. The orange car uses fairly soft springs to give it a very mild ride and the red z is running much stiffer springs but that is the one I drive. I like the CCW brand and styles but any good quality wheel that is a 3 piece design will enable you to custom choose the offset, etc.

It is good you have the time and skill to do that! One thing I have done on two of my 240Z cars is having beefing up the frame rails. I do not mean the kits that are out there like the Bad Dog parts but instead more heavy duty boxed frame. The first 240Z we did we welded a heavy gauge U shaped on the inside and underside matted together to form a true boxed frame. That worked good but a lot of work and you had to take out all of the interior. The next version on the second 240Z an already boxed heavy gauge metal was welded just to the underside. This work was done by Dando's Automotive in Fremont, CA. Both of these worked great as the cars are so much stiffer and stronger. It actually saved my life see this post. You might consider also doing this as I think it is a great way to improve a street car for stiffness as well as safety without needing that extensive of a roll bar setup. I am building a more crazy street car that already has a 9 point cage which I plan on doing this same frame rail upgrade. My Red Z without any roll bars to me is about as stiff as my Z with a 9 point cage which is pretty cool...

My cousin used those on his caged Maverick, they work great. You just push it down and it disengages the bar so you can slide it out and when they are put back in place they just pock up and locks. They are plenty strong.

I would recommend options like this, if you must have door bars, as these will allow the bar to swing out and are spring loaded making it easier than pins, etc. http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/mmo102002.html I would also try not to go crazy on the bars as you can try to limit bars around the passenger area. There are also retractable 3 point and 4 point seat belts or just do 5 point harness on the drivers seat. Believe me most women do not like seats with 5 point seat belts nor do they like any bars near them as they are worried about being hit by them, etc. You also should consider more comfortable racing seats like the Recaro and look at their Comfort series or Dynamic which is more race but still reclines; spend more on seats that are leather, recline, adjustable and comfortable. There are a few brands that can do that and have handle a 5 point belt but not many.

The V12 will be a head turner. One thought on the cage as it really is for safety as you can get the stiffness with frame rails and strut bars; you can have the door bars swing out and there are spring activated locks for roll bars. My cousin did this on his hot rod so you have the side protection but still enables easier access. People forget that yes they are ok with climbing over bars but most others are not

Are you talking about that Race Cast LSV12? I think it has that cool factor being a V12 and does use LS engine mounts, but that I believe is a cast iron block, so why not get an aluminum block LS instead as you get the same horsepower & lighter with much more options in parts, etc.? I am all for cages but the reason why I mentioned what I did on my mild street Z's is that to me it gets the chassis stiffness without the need for a cage which is good for a more street car. Your significant other will typically not like being in a car with bars all over and if they have to climb in or over bars that car will only be driven with you in it and sometimes that causes people to sell the car unless it is for the track and they have the funds to have a lot of cars. To me for the street you really only need a cage if you want to track it and the rules require that or if you are going to the extreme and the car could roll, etc. due to crazy speeds or extreme racing. I do have one street car that does have a semi-cage because the goal is over 200 mph on the street yet I did not go all the way as I did not want to go over the line and make the car impractical for the street, which is easy to do. You car sounds like a cool build but be careful not to go over the line as it sounds like your car is like my cars primarily street.

Twisted, One other bit of information that I wanted to share as I know many people are using the Bad Dog parts but what I did was have Ken at Dando's Automotive in Fremont, CA whom did their own versions which I feel is way better than the Bad Dog which is not fully boxed. Their first version was done on my RedZ 240 where they mated two heavy gauge steel U shaped pieces that are just a bit wider but not by much more than the stock Z rails and by welding an inside and and underside piece they form a fully boxed rail that appears stock if you are not a Z freak. On my wife's orange 240Z they used their new design which is a fully boxed heavy gauge steel rail that is welded just on the underside. Either way that creates a fully boxed frame and that I believe creates a stiffer setup than the Bad Dog non boxed rail.

Great build and would love to know all of the tweaks, etc. to get the RB engine in there! I plan on having RIP's build me an RB30 turbo for my 240Z Primadonna Z. Very curious to see how the intercooler and the turbo piping will be installed. Please continue to post pictures when you are doing the rest of the build FYI, on another restomod 4 door that I installed a mild LS1 that I have completed, you might consider using the Heatshield Products, https://www.heatshieldproducts.com/lava-shield and line the entire tunnel and under all of the exhaust pipes. I wished I had done that on my other restomod but I did not think of that before I installed the engine so I did the best I could be adding it afterwards but not as good to do as it would be to do on yours now before too many parts get installed.