primaz

Their overall suspension including the front to me is good. It has evolved to the current version which has been updated at least a couple of times. Instead of trying to design your own you might consider just upgrading the Viking to the quad adjustable which is what I am doing. The Viking with their front can work great but you just have to be sure to know roughly what height you want, the tire/wheel height, etc. To me it is not a limitation on travel but they just have a limitation on the range of changing the ride height but once you know the desired midpoint that is a mute issue. I am getting their current Track Attack but am ordering them with the upgraded Viking 4 way adjustable Berserker coil overs so that I can get the ability to please my wife when not racing and high speed settings when needed with their independent high and low speed rebound and compression system. Once you know your desired midpoint then the Viking will give you around 3 to 3.5" up and down height adjustment which is plenty and your not likely going to change once you find your ideal level. Many big HP Corvettes, and other street/track cars are very happy with the Viking Quad coil overs. The Apex extra settings to me do not make it weaker but rather just complicate it for owners as those settings would never ever be used so you are just creating more chances for DIY people to get frustrated. Also as Ben280 suggested Viking tech support is very knowledgeable and can help you choose the right version. Again I do not believe there is any issue of bottoming or travel limits. It is just that the Viking gives you plenty of adjustability but the design is not a standard nono tube coil over so you just need to know the mid point of the height you want the car to be and order the right length to match. It is all of their adjustability which creates this difference compare to a mono tube where you do not have all of those knobs to adjust things.

I was asking because on the front of the Track Attack the Viking coil over set up needs to be ordered based on the wheel/tire height and how you want it to sit as the front setup due to the Viking design has limited travel for adjusting the height. The Viking is not like a standard coil over where you have all of the adjustability to change the perch height; it is a good design but you need to get the right option. Apex does not tell you that. The rear is fine as there is adjustability with the cantilever ability to have adjustment for height. Also be careful as that suspension has way too many unnecessary adjustments that would never be used so you can get into trouble easily on the setup...

Have you actually finished the installation of the track attack, or are just asking these questions hypothetically? I am somewhat familiar with this set and based on what I read it sounds like you have not installed it yet, is this correct?

It seems like the posts here are fairly old and there are more options and all have now updated speed feedback usually via GPS or some other means to make everything automatic. There are a few other power steering options, two good electric and one more high end hydraulic more customizable and for show: https://zpowersteering.com/ I think this seems to be what many are say is one of the better ones out there that has evolved and the level regulates by the speed of the car so no knobs needed but this and the other electric I believe can be adjusted. ZPS uses a much smarter solution. Our proprietary system continuously senses and measures the torque differential between two inputs: Your hands on the wheel, and the tires on the ground. When there is a disparity between these values, our system instantaneously applies or subtracts steering assist so it remains constant and linear. It is a “need-based” application of power, rather than being based on an irrelevant value such as vehicle speed. Simply put – When you need it, it’s there. When you don’t, it’s not, just like a hydraulic system. https://www.ezpowersteering.com/car-brands/datsun-en-us/240z-en-us/z-series/ I think this was one of the first ones and has evolved and supposedly Zpowersteering copied their design? https://retrorack.com.au/240z-rack-kit This is cool looking, very customizable, well built if you want hydraulic https://www.silverminemotors.com/products/electric-power-steering-kit-for-240z-260z-280z-datsun-1970-1978-s30?srsltid=AfmBOoo542JU9EXenZ92aEsoDikk3hWuIf06n2-OgBn6SwUdxCeLvKvq I have this on my wife's 240z and it works well. To me it is a little sensitive but when you get used to it, the feel is decent. I have another 240z that I am thinking of trying the Zpowersteering option or the EZpowersteering? Not ready to pull the trigger so if anyone has experience in those compared to the Silvermine, I would love to hear your thoughts? Right now I am leaning towards EZpowersteering?

Another option is from Technotoytuning, https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/240z/long-nose-r180r200-cv-axles-240260280z

Could you post a video of how it operates in your car so we could hear the "noise at idle" that Godzilla Race Works forewarns anyone whom buys this tranny? Love to hear your thoughts after you have drove it a bit to get use to it, etc..

I used these general ranges and ended up with about 1.1 negative camber on all four corners, yes the car is lowered a good amount as it sits about 4 to 4.5 inches off the ground. The front wheels are +13 with 5" backspace, lip size 2.125", the rear wheels are the same: Front, Toe: 1/16” to 3/32” in Camber: 0 to 1 negative with 1 being preferred Caster: 4 to 6 positive. The actual number between 4 and 6 is not important, only that both sides are the same Rear Toe: 1/16” in Camber: 0 to 1 negative with 1 being preferred The best is rent or find a shop that has the offset wheel measuring tool as every brand of coil overs, springs, and cars are a little different. I had the stock fenders rolled to ensure that there were no sharp edges or rubbing. To me it is weird to hack up a Z and just run 245 or smaller tires; I do like flared Z cars and own an extremely flared Z with 345's and 285's, but when you flare it to me it should be to put much wider wheel than you can with a stock body. Yes you need to spend some money for coil overs, rolling the fenders to maximize the tire width but that will make the car handle better anyways and yes custom offset wheels are needed but to me better than cutting the car up spending money on flares, paint and body to just put the same size you can without flares.

I would recommend to upgrade with coil over setup. With good quality coil over's you would be able to go even wider than 245 since you have mild flares as I have coil overs on two of my stock body 240z cars with no flares, no rubbing and am running 245 wide tires on all four corners. If I had added flares to give 2-3" more space I would be able to over 255's and run 265 to 285's. You can see one of my 240z's with no flares running 245's on all four corners so if you have flares I would be wanting to go wider. Why cut the car and add flares if you are running the same size tires you can run without flares?

I would recommend to use 16" rims as then you can also upgrade brakes to large size with no issues. I am running 16" x 8" with 245 45's on all four corners with no flares no rubbing https://www.tirerack.com/tires/TireSearchResults.jsp?zip-code=94545&width=245/&ratio=45&diameter=16&rearWidth=235/&rearRatio=50&rearDiameter=15 You can get these all street legal tires: Yokohama A008P, Advan AN052, Bridgestone Potenza Sport, Pirelli Pzero Rosso, Pirelli Pzero Collezione, Pirelli Cinturato P7 in 245 45 16

Yes I had my body shop roll the fenders. I am not sure about the +25? I know that the 245 tires fit comfortably and the rears could go a size larger with the current offset but we wanted to be able to rotate the tires to get the maximum life of the tires. As long as you focus on three piece wheels then your choices open up to any custom offset you want. I agree the CCW's look nice, I have another car with their D240 3 piece wheel and those look cool. Also there are shops that will custom re-barrel a three piece wheel and you can typically take a 16" or even a 15" wheel and change it to a 17"; not sure if that opens up options on buying a used set of rims just for the center sections? CCW used to make custom 2 piece wheels but I think they stopped doing that as the orange Z was a 2 piece welded that cut the cost by half; some smaller wheel companies may offer that as well? but I like the 3 piece in the event you hit a pot hole hard/fast you can just replace the barrel.

BBK? I assume Big Brake Kit? As long as you are using a 16" or larger it should be fine. I am running the Arizona 12.5" big brake Wilwood kit on two of my 240z cars. Actually the larger the diameter the more tire options as new cars are not using 14" or 15" anymore. For 17" there are good tire options with the Michelin Pilot Sport which is a good tire https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Michelin&tireModel=Pilot+Sport+All+Season+4&frontTire=445YR7PSAS4XL&rearTire=44YR7PSAS4XL&vehicleSearch=false&fromCompare1=yes My Red 240Z is running ground control coil overs with the same Arizona 12.5" vented rotor big Wilwood brake kit and the same tires. 16" wheels has less options than the 17" I believe for the ultra low profile but there are still options in both 16" & 17". I would look carefully at the tire size and brand options and let that guide you between 16, 17" or even 18" if you are ok with the large diameter. You will need to see the options in different tire heights from 40, 45, 50 to help guide your preference. The right offset is critical to avoid rubbing and I would recommend to roll your fenders. I would recommend to spend the money for a 3 piece wheel which will be easy to replace an inside or outside barrel if you ever dent it vs the 2 piece welded versions I am running. A 240Z with 245 wide quality tires with coil overs will handle incredible, you will love the feel...

I am using CCW wheels, 16" x 8", offset +13, backspace 5", lip size 2.125" on the orange 240Z with BC Racing coilovers; that enables us to run 16x245x40 series tires on all four corners no flares and no rubbing. Every car can be slightly different as you may use different suspension such as different brand coilovers, springs, etc. By measuring using those wheel measuring tools you can determine what is the ideal offset, etc. that you can fit and thus the widest tires. Running 245's on all corners is very easy as there are others I have seen on the forums going much wider pushing their setup to the maximum. Our 240Z's with 245's, with good suspension and good quality tires handle extremely well. The orange car uses fairly soft springs to give it a very mild ride and the red z is running much stiffer springs but that is the one I drive. I like the CCW brand and styles but any good quality wheel that is a 3 piece design will enable you to custom choose the offset, etc.

It is good you have the time and skill to do that! One thing I have done on two of my 240Z cars is having beefing up the frame rails. I do not mean the kits that are out there like the Bad Dog parts but instead more heavy duty boxed frame. The first 240Z we did we welded a heavy gauge U shaped on the inside and underside matted together to form a true boxed frame. That worked good but a lot of work and you had to take out all of the interior. The next version on the second 240Z an already boxed heavy gauge metal was welded just to the underside. This work was done by Dando's Automotive in Fremont, CA. Both of these worked great as the cars are so much stiffer and stronger. It actually saved my life see this post. You might consider also doing this as I think it is a great way to improve a street car for stiffness as well as safety without needing that extensive of a roll bar setup. I am building a more crazy street car that already has a 9 point cage which I plan on doing this same frame rail upgrade. My Red Z without any roll bars to me is about as stiff as my Z with a 9 point cage which is pretty cool...

My cousin used those on his caged Maverick, they work great. You just push it down and it disengages the bar so you can slide it out and when they are put back in place they just pock up and locks. They are plenty strong.

I would recommend options like this, if you must have door bars, as these will allow the bar to swing out and are spring loaded making it easier than pins, etc. http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/mmo102002.html I would also try not to go crazy on the bars as you can try to limit bars around the passenger area. There are also retractable 3 point and 4 point seat belts or just do 5 point harness on the drivers seat. Believe me most women do not like seats with 5 point seat belts nor do they like any bars near them as they are worried about being hit by them, etc. You also should consider more comfortable racing seats like the Recaro and look at their Comfort series or Dynamic which is more race but still reclines; spend more on seats that are leather, recline, adjustable and comfortable. There are a few brands that can do that and have handle a 5 point belt but not many.