Jump to content
HybridZ

240zdan

Members
  • Posts

    333
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    4

Everything posted by 240zdan

  1. Sorry, I should expand my inquiry: Why not get a cast stainless merge collector made up?
  2. What's the point of this? I am a a CNC machinist/programmer who has worked with surfacing/5 axis so no advertising hype please. I'm just curious. Seems like an awful waste of metal to me.
  3. I dont have any Z32 calipers to check, but yes, these brackets were designed for r32 gtr sumitomo 4 piston calipers and OEM gtr rotors.
  4. This is 100% true. I work with turbos for a living and believe me, most of our warranties are either contaminated oil or imbalance. A few things to consider: A bit of oil leakage around the turbo is acceptable. Pressure wash the engine thoroughly, continue running the engine and keep an eye out for EXCESSIVE oil leaks. Just because there is a film of oil in your charge or intake does NOT mean your turbo is blown. Check for shaft play, if its not excessive and the wheel doesn't rub the housings then I'd leave it. Upgrading to steel wheels is a waste of time IMO the pictures you linked look like chinese kits to me. i wouldn't be suprised if the turbine wheel was imbalanced from the start, the chinese thrust collars like to be out of balance to. Add your compressor wheel onto this and some crooked threads that tweak the entire shaft when tightened and you have grenade turbo waiting to explode. The company is right, you can assemble the turbo yourself. This doesn't mean it will last. Leave the turbos as they are. If you want them rebuilt, save your money and buy upgrades or jump to a single turbo. Take a picture of the "leaking turbo".
  5. Pictures and more info coming soon, watch the thread for details.
  6. They should be available next week. I have 5 sets, one set is already sold to m3 and z Prices are as follows: $75 to machine your gtr rotors to fit your stock hubs. $90 for the adaptor brackets laser cut from 1/2" steel ( I will probably source hardware as well) A couple things to note: You must purchase brake lines such as these here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nissan-240SX-w-300ZX-Z32-Calipers-Front-Conversion-Brake-Lines-S13-S14-/360483317495 You must run a 16" or larger 0 offset wheel (my 16x8 0 offset XXR wheels barely clear). Spacers are required between the adaptor bracket and spindle, I used washers on my setup and will try to source the appropriate ones and include them with the adaptor brackets. Upgrading the master is recomended. Your zed will stop quickly, these brakes are STRONG.
  7. Yes in addition you will need to find GTR rotors as thats what I designed these for. They will only work with 16" wheels or bigger.
  8. I was thinking about buying these rims. Thanks for the pic, now I know what they'll look like!
  9. 16X8 0 offset with my own Megan coilover adaptors. Sorry for the poor picture, its all I have at the moment.
  10. its about time megan started toying with producing with s30 specific coilovers, However, I always thought there just wasnt enough demand for them. Either way, s13 coilovers with mckinney adaptors is a bad route to go cost wise!
  11. yeah that alone is a huge negative aspect. Just all some wreckers or post wanted ads on craigslist, i picked up my trans for $250. Or buy careless's transmission. yes im running an rb, white 240z with cage, all original body work.
  12. Get Arizona Zcar coilovers I deisgned the whole s13 megan thing with affordability in mind. I bought used coilovers for $500 and made the adaptors myself. Now its megans $1000-1200 Adaptors $300 New springs to suit the zed $1-200
  13. man i havent been on this site for a while, i remeber watching videos of your l series. I see youve finnaly made the switch, loooks to be performing great, made the same power as mine did at around the same boost ( I did not edge th tune I kept it safe) I think 440whp is enough for these cars anyhow
  14. Use the bellhousing off your AWD tranny and bolt it up to any 90-96 300zx 5 speed tranny. This has been documented well on the site and its what I run in my car. Tremec with an adaptor? Sounds pricey to me! Dont use the AWD transmission.... BTW, what color is your car? where do you live in the lower mainland?
  15. still need to modfy the pan to make it rear sump. better off to build a new pan ask me how i know.
  16. redneck: thats exactly how i designed my main hoop. as close to the rockers as possible where the seatbelt pocket used to be. This really is the best spot to put it.. Triangulating the hoop... what a nono may as well weld rebar to the hoops connecting it to the body. Remember this guys building a very award capable zed here. If I were you id bitch at the fabricator regardless of what your using the car for. He should know better than to butcher a main hoop like that if he has any sort of cage building experience After all its your ride and you want it to be 100 perfect, judging by the amount of clear thats laid underneath it. Another thing to consider is that the rear support bars do not even interact with the rear shock tower in any way. Any decent cage builder would consider suspension point into his designs, extending them that far to the rear floor pan doesnt do much for the rigidity of the chassis
  17. Ill have to dig up a photo of my cage but basically you want the main hoop to start as close to the rocker as possible, i used the original pocket that the seatbelt sits in and welded my 6x6 plate to that, i also had to modify the rear inner fender for more clearence. The fuel cell mounting is not 100% as those mounting tabs are in no way shape or form designed to support all the weight of the cell along with the fuel its carrying. You need a strap, or in my case i built a basket for the fuel cell to sit in. It may work but as it is but just keep an eye on those mounting tabs to make sure cracks arent developing. Itll probably be fine but id look into building some sort of more relaible mounting system where you know for sure its 100% The main hoop should be fixed but it looks like a good part of your cage will need to be redone.
  18. Great attention to detail but two things: Fuel cell mounting is very dangerous and Main hoop is terrible. Other then that it woudl be an award winning Zed! I would be afraid to drive the thing though, I wouldnt want all that shiny paint underneath getting scratched up!
  19. Looking for the s30z rear lower control arm drop mounts, brace, and bushing mounts. (5 pieces total) The pieces that bolt the lower control arms to the chassis. let me know what you have. I had tons of them but threw them all out last year lol.
  20. http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2801402 heres a good idea of what the difference is like. now this is on a 1.8l mind you, the difference on a 2.5l would be amplified. as you can see the larger turbine housing offers about 10 more ft lbs but only about 200 rpms more lag. Also Gollum: when you refer to f1 and rally turbos, how many of these turbo have you actually taken apart and inspected? I have a IHI RX8 cart turbo at work and I can tell you that the turbine housing is NOT small. Just wondering where you even get your information from. Im not saying that bigger ar turbine housings are better im just saying the .82 is more suitable for the rbs, especially the 2.5l and 2.6l variants. if i was running a rb20 is run a .63. if i was running a stroked and cammed rb id run a 1.06 or possibly larger. I wish I could get a dyn sheet of my rb26 with the 30r and 35r in both .63 and .82 turbine housings but i can barely keep the thing on the road as it is... always something to fix
  21. Im not over generalizing anything. I stated hybrid turbos are silly. I was mainly referring to a turbo with a small turbine wheel and large compressor wheel. Why run a huge compressor wheel that is capable of flowing more than the turbine wheel, putting it into surge territory, increasing IATS, increasing exhaust manifold pressure, decreasing power. I was just stating that compressor wheels and turbine wheels shoudl be proportioned to eachother, and this is the route many people are going with... The turbine housing thing, you have your reasons as to why a smaller turbine housing my be better and thats fine, but I am speaking from experience. The larger turbine housing doesnt spool much slower and makes more power overall. If a properely degined wastegate is the magic key then why do companies even offer different turbine housings as options.Besides, the wastegate is a simple valve, its the design of the manifold that matters more. Just like I stated in my post. Youre so set on the fact that turbine housing AR doesnt matter, you are right, run the smaller turbine housing you can get away with and enjoy. Dyno sheets are the only things that will prove you wrong. These are simple facts based off experiences. Whether or not the guy chooses a .63 or a .82 is none of my concern I am just speaking from my own observation. Alot of the time I think people spend too much time thinking/arguing about this kind of stuff rather than laying rubber down. Anywasy rayapp Im pretty sure I have a .82 for a 30r somewhere... just try out the .63 and see how you like it first, most likely youll barely even notice a difference between the too if youre not running crazy boost.
×
×
  • Create New...