EF Ian

Thats what the washer are for, they allow you to move the wheel forward or backwards in the well depending on where you want it, I moved mine back a bit over stock.

Thanks for the link, I'll check that out. So, it seems that any kit for a Z that is sold as a rear mount should fit the AZC setup? That might be possible, as long as it won't make the bar hang too low and risk catching, I'll need to have a closer look and see what I can work out. Would certainly be better option as the rear mount bars also looks very lose to the CV shafts on any builds I've seen.

I like how it handles on the stock bars, I don't like to run thick bars on most of my cars. Just preference. I don't want to increase tendency to oversteer and my cars roll is fine with the stock one, adding a stiffer one could mess up how I have it setup to handle.

I'm looking to run the AZC Moustache Bar and Dog legs so I can run a rear mount sway bar in order to remove my current stock mount bar so I can extend my frame rails. I'm just checking what sway bar options I have? I don't really want to run a thicker bar than stock so which bar is the best?

I've ordered a Restored full carbon bonnet, I'll post photos once I receive it. Its full carbon and has proper finished carbon on both sides, not just the outside.

I had to get my Rotas chamfered to make them fit properly, they were just ever so fractionally touching the hub.

Why did you switch to Hydraulic?

I assume you mean 18lbs?

http://www.topstage.com/product/s30-240z-260z-replacement-bonnet-carbon/ The full carbon 4.5kg bonnet is an extra £1000 Australian Dollars

Thanks for the review as I'll probably want this at some point but as I currently love the feedback and feeling from my steering it couldn't be at the sacrifice of this.

Both those hoods could be made lighter if they were made to be pin on only.

Been looking at Restored.JP hoods and Topstage hoods. In case anyone is looking it might help so here are the weights: Restored cabon with FRP frame - 22lb/10kg Restored Carbon with carbon frame - 14lb/6.4kg Topstage carbon and FRP - 13lb/6kg Top stage full carbon - 9.9lbs/4.5kg

Also interested in the weight of the hood, you'd be doing me a big help in deciding on a hood as I want to order one this week. If you have any photos of the inside of the hood that would be awesome.

Bump to see if anyone can help, still haven't been able to find the inner mid to rear diameter of Watanabes, either F8 or R type in 16". I think I can get away with a minimum of 370mm.

Are they a perfect fit? Carbon or FRP?

Nice project.

Theres nothing wrong with a Quaife, just for me I prefer the feel of a clutch type LSD. Only downside with the Quaife is that it can not transmit any power to the opposite wheel when the slipping wheel loses 100% of its traction. But that doesn't happen often really. I really rate Quaife in my FWD Civic. The quaife diffs seem to be quite unobtrusive unlike a lot of the clutch type diffs, you'll notice big difference compared to an open diff so I'm sure you'll love it.

I am more worried about the clearance to the inside of the rim than the spokes, I would like to avoid spacers if possible though but I guess thats not possible on Wats. Guess you are running flares to be using that size. I prefer the R types but then I have to run a max of 8" on the rear whereas if I use the F8 type I can run 8.5" and 245 tyres with stock arches.

My OS Giken Superlock LSD is the best LSD I've used, that another option for you over the Quaife, it is more expensive though but compared to other diffs I've driven with, Cusco, Nismo, Quaife it is better product.

No one? Even anybody running the R types?

Looks good, how close/good is the fitment? How much do they weigh? or they lighter than stock?

Hopefully someone on here runs 16" Watanabe F8 wheels. I'd like to change my rear wheels to 8.5 Watanabes but I need to make sure my brakes will fit so I need to know the inner diameter of the wheels, my brakes are nearer the rear of the wheels so I'm interested in the diameter from the centre to back. If anyone is running these it would be great help if you could measure them for me. Thanks

S30's don't make good drift cars so you need to give it as much help as possible by setting the Geo up. You can slide them but full on drift isn't so good, another problem is they don't have much steering lock.

For me Either Link G4+ or a Motec

While that can be true, all it takes is time to get the aftermarket ECU's performing like a stock in terms of driveability, with the time and money you've spent on this surely a bit more on tuning is no big deal. Map it well on the dyno and then spend couple of weekends tweaking the cold start, drive-ability and part throttle settings, make sure the conditions are different on each weekend. I feel the drive-ability on my RB26 with lnik ECU is very good, tweaked the cold start a few times and now its perfect. Will be great to see it running, good luck, make sure to keep us up to date.