JMortensen

Just FYI it was about $90 to ship, so factor that in when you're looking at the price online. I ship doggy doors for sliding glass doors that are long like this, they're not gouging. UPS and FedEx just bend you over when you ship such a long box. Plus there is a second package with the end plates.

2.5" and got one of the profile too:

I was sick, then out of town, then sick again, then out of town again, then sick again, but I'm finally back on the wing. Decided to save myself some pain and bought the 9 lives second element rather than making one. Was hoping that the end plates would have holes that lined up in the right spot. It did. One hole was correct. Verified the overlap and gap per guidelines in Competition Car Aerodynamics, and drilled the rest of the holes. Here's what it looks like on the floor. I need to get the holes cut in the body and the mounting brackets built. I think I'm going to make the uprights from wood before I cut the aluminum. I have it all traced out, but it's expensive, so want to be sure before I do the final version. This is the flap in its steepest AoA. It's pretty steep. Thinking separation might be an issue. I do have some angle to make a gurney if I need it, and there are 3 other (slightly) less aggressive settings. Thinking for autox just go for broke.

I mocked it up, and it raised the wing element about 1" was really surprised that it was only worth 1". Going to try again with the slot in the back instead of the front, see if it changes things.

That is interesting info. And you're V8 swapped too, which is one of the reasons I really felt I needed it. Might be a bunch of wasted effort here. Wouldn't be the first time. LOL.

Yep. That must be it. Thanks.

I figured I wanted to straighten the airflow under the wing, but the higher it is the more pressure there will be closer to the bottom of the wing. I think there is a happy spot in there for spoiler height, but I'm doubting that it's 10". Maybe if it were laid out almost flat. Would be interesting to see what effect that would have on a diffuser, but I think to start I'll make a shorter one. This one won't lay all the way down, since the hatch has a little convex curve. Would have to slot the outer holes in the lexan. Looked for a front mounted swan and can't find it. the F1 cars look like they're mounted to the top front part of the wing.

Here's the de-gurney'd wing:

2 options, swan and under mount. They're both less than 6" above the roofline. Swan is a lot more complicated, obviously. I think I can get the second element under 6" above roofline with the swan, would have to lower it with the standard pedestal. Will remove the 10" autox spoiler and probably install a similar spoiler that is 3 or 4" tall. The wing element is behind the roof in the swan, so less frontal area, although I think a second element would be almost entirely above the roof as viewed from front.

I see Donating Members for a while now, but I used to see my status. I still get DMs on status though:

Does it matter? I was a newbie with 13K posts a while back, now I'm a "Collaborator." I haven't found that my coffee tastes different in the morning. YMMV. EDIT--I expect that your inability to reply was to a FAQ post. Used to be that posts to that forum had to be approved by moderators, the idea was to keep that area easy to search, and use it for useful posts that deal with popular topics. Now anyone can post there and it shows up without approval, but nobody can respond.

Yeah, for sure the hatch area can take hundreds of lbs of force. there is a reinforcing panel underneath the pillar, and it handles slamming the hatch for decades. My wing, as delivered, was supposed to make ~600 lbs of downforce at 150 mph. I'm probably going to make a second element for it, so might be closer to 1000. I think it needs some way to transfer that load to the floor. If you're using a wing like the one they tested in the wind tunnel (small) then yeah, just bolt it on and go.

Got a really strong answer on the slippage question, so I thought I'd spread it around: "Its been awhile so I may be missing something. Based on this calculator, its showing that torquing a 1/4-20 bolt to 20in-lb would give a preload of 426 lbs. https://mechanicalc.com/calculators/...orque-preload/ Then going here https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/f...nts-d_778.html and putting in US units (Slugs) and 32ft/s2 plus 1.35 mu for aluminum I doubled the answer because you have two surfaces sliding against each other in the pictured joint. In reality, you would have 4 because of two sides of the wing. Or only 2 if you did a single-shear joint. So with 2, it should not slide until 1120 lbs is added to it Also, you are sharing load with the front bolt as well. If you slot the rear bolt, if it does slide it will lower the wing angle and reduce the downforce. If you slot the front bolt, it will increase the wing angle and increase the downforce."

Now it looks like it's in there twice.

I like this because it's double shear and easier to fab. Wouldn't have to line up and drill 20 holes. Thoughts on slippage?

Thought was to have two sets of uprights, one SCCA legal and one not, the not legal setting the wing further back. AL is getting pricey, but this is surprisingly cheap. Still need to get some sheet AL to do under the drivetrain. Might do both and then go pick it up in Seattle and save the shipping cost. Forgot link: https://www.onlinemetals.com/en/buy/aluminum/0-25-aluminum-plate-6061-t651/pid/1248

I think we're on the same page there. The bracket to floor will be on the outside of the wing support, so the bolts will go through the sheet metal, the wing support, and the 1/8" plate, and then there will be a nut welded to the back of the plate. Hard to draw this stuff well, and helps if you don't change colors... duh. Should be more like this:

I picked up an extruded AL wing off of ebay for a surprisingly good price. 65" wing, $379 plus tax. https://www.ebay.com/itm/324563472720 When it shipped it went from FL to WA, then to IL, then back to WA. So it went about 7000 miles to be delivered 3000 miles away. The built in gurney got bent from all the extra traveling, but only a couple inches in from the end and I think I can probably straighten some of it. I talked to the seller and I took a discount and I'll chop the end off. I think I can make it a 63 or 64 inch wing and make that work. They suggested a miter saw, which I have, so shouldn't be too big a deal to cut it (hoping). Actually just looked at it again, now thinking of hacking off the gurney instead and keeping the full width... Looking at how to do chassis mount. Years ago I had talked to Cary and he had suggested a 1/8" aluminum plate from the hatch to the floor to take the vertical load. I still have the piece that I bought years ago. Thinking I can screw to the hatch area at the top, and just run the plate straight down to a piece of angle aluminum, and then bolt that straight to the frame rails with nutserts. The problem is where it hits the car. There is a natural angle where the outer weatherstrip goes, then a step down to another angle where the main hatch weather strip goes. I can't put the upright on the first ledge. There isn't enough room for a decent sized fastener in there. If I put it down a step, then the upright takes up too much space and I'd have to really hack into my fiberglass hatch to get it on. I think the solution is to cut a slot in the first step and slide the uprights down into the chassis and then bolt through. There is a doubled up piece of metal in the hatch there which will make it harder to get to the back side of the 1/8" sheet. Think I'll weld nuts to the aluminum to solve that problem. Going to trace the wing profile onto a piece of cardboard and start playing with uprights. Plan is 1/4" 6061 for the uprights from the body to the wing. I could probably cut holes to lighten it from there, but I'm not going to worry about it right now. More fixated on getting it installed on the car. Thoughts and feedback appreciated.

Apparently youtube shorts are not just short youtube videos that go to your own channel. Oops. I put a couple of videos on my diff pump fail on there, and apparently they're out there getting viewed by people who want TikTok kinds of videos. Now one has several hundred views and 7 likes. LOL. EDIT--Good news is the guy who sold me the bad pump agreed to refund me, so at least I didn't lose that money. EDIT 2--Found another seller with a better looking pump, and a seller with a rebuild kit for these pumps. So I bought the pump and the rebuild kit, hopefully this one is in good shape and it will get fresh bearings and be ready to go before installation.

Pulled the diff oil pump out and decided to start on a mount. Immediately noticed a ton of play in the shaft. Not many parts in there, so I took it apart. Wasted. I guess I'll have to get another pump. Oh, and my wing looks like UPS lost it. FML.

Easy to do. Don't know why I had any hesitation. Vent popped right out with screwdriver. 1/2" drill bit, then 9/16, then tap. The hole is pretty close to the edge so I tried to work the drill away from the edge when I drilled the holes. No problem.

Just cleaning up the diff cover so I can weld a drain to feed the pump, and looking at the plastic vent. Might be a good time to upgrade that. Never pulled one out before, looks like you can just lever the plastic vent out of the cover. After that seems like there is enough meat there to drill out the hole to 1/4NPT, then run a fitting off of that and attach to a catch can positioned somewhere convenient. Anything else to know?

Well, you post something and then look afterwards, and this is what you get. Whole kit, less the side shims. $365. Note that it says same for 280Z, ZX and 300ZX: https://zcardepot.com/collections/rear-axle-and-differential/products/r200-differential-rebuild-bearing-seal-kit-280z-280zx-300zx

I don't think anyone sells a kit. The ball bearing at the front is Nissan only last I checked. The pinion and carrier bearings might be something you can source elsewhere, but I only bought factory. I just bought pinion and side seals for my diff from www.zcardepot.com. Pinion seal was factory, sides were in a Timken box. There is a difference in the early and later pinion bearings. I couldn't tell you part numbers, but IIRC the tapered roller pinion bearings in the later years were larger. Ball bearing was the same. I think all the carrier bearings are the same too, but probably best to pull them and order by the part number. Shouldn't need to reshim anything if you do change the bearings, but if you do need to adjust backlash because you're adding an aftermarket LSD for example, Jay Zinc (on FB, not sure if he's a member here) sells a carrier bearing shim kit. I would suggest that if your diff isn't making noise, or if the bearings don't look worn it's probably not worth it. You'll spend $500 or $600 (more?) on parts and it won't make the car any faster. These diffs run hot so they might be damaged if they were raced, but if it's out of a street car they rarely go bad.

Good luck, Greg!