JMortensen

It would lower the rear of the can an inch and it would look like it was dragging its ass around.

The GTR is 2 seconds slower than Coffey's old car. The Porsche is 3 seconds slower than a fast ITS Z car. I have to wonder about the tuning prowess of Techart.

Put the dowels in the block and lay the headgasket on. Don't try to make it too precise. If you miss a bit you'll burn up the headgasket.

Thanks Dan. I wanted as much 3 dimensionality as I could get, if that makes sense, so I went as low as possible on the A pillar. At this height I had to dent the fenderwells a bit for clearance, and was right at the bottom of the fenderwell to firewall junction, so that's about as low as I could go. I wish I could have made the tubes hit the strut tower directly, but about 1" away from the strut tower was the best I could do. There just wasn't any room to weld. I think if I had done these first and then the tubes to the dash bar it would have worked. Again, live and learn...

OK, last little bit on the cage. I had been mulling a couple things, FIA bar from the base of the A pillar tube to the top of the A pillar tube, but without the bend, and also a tube from the base of the A pillar to the strut tower. I finally decided against the FIA bar because my cage already ties the door bar into the A pillar above the bend, so I think that bar is less useful in my case than it would be in a newer more high waisted car that has the bend in the A pillar tube above the door bars. I did decide to do the A pillar to strut tower bar. I wanted to do this before but chickened out because it wasn't a very accessible area. Now as my suspension mods are nearly done I took another look and figured if I didn't do it now it would probably never get done. Welding the patches to the firewall was a serious pain in the ass and welding the tube to the bottom of the A pillar tube required cutting out a hole in the door jamb area and welding it back in. Really a PITA job and I wish I had done it before I painted the jambs and the engine compartment. Live and learn... The engine compartment is painted black with Zero Rust, but there is quite a bit of white overspray on it. I'm going to go over the whole thing with Rustoleum just so that it's all a uniform color, it looks pretty crappy right now...

I've heard of guys using green loctite to prevent a bearing from spinning on the carrier (not Datsun). Haven't heard of the race spinning before this. Obviously taking some off the cap means the hole won't be round anymore, but if it's just a thou or two, maybe that won't be enough to matter (?).

Changed your title to be more descriptive. My brother-in-law should have some insulators too. matmorrowATatt.net Be sure you get the right ones, the early 260 insulators are shorter than the later ones. measuring the height of one of them is probably the best way to go.

s12 has R180 or R200 differentials depending on model. Use that info and the info here to see your LSD options. Search for retailers online to see what it's going to cost you.

From your description it sounds pretty obvious that the previous bushing was installed incorrectly. Don't use white lithium grease on anything that turns any real rpms. A good bearing grease is what you'll want.

Don't go with the bearing. There is no benefit in my opinion and the bushing is way more reliable. The bearing style has a tendency to wear and freeze up. There were threads on this years ago, but good luck finding them now.

I'd guess turbo or valve stem seals as well, but just to be sure, you might want to put a sniffer in the radiator. Either a smog sniffer or an A/C leak detector will show you HC's in the coolant.

Any auto parts store will have mag lug nuts. 12 x 1.25mm is what you need.

How many guys are racing 2+2's really? In the US, they're not very common, and to race one is to immediately handicap oneself with a heavier car, so if given the choice the best move is to avoid the 2+2. I think the 2+2's are probably outnumbered 50:1 here by the coupes. With all that in mind, I can't see dedicating any time at all to them. It would be like Hybrid Z testing Z31's...

Not much of a turbo guy, but I seem to remember a similar problem with a turbo Volvo 740 that ended up being an intake boot that had cracked.

Could you make that picture bigger please? Myron, I had considered doing the same and there was a picture of a Japanese car that had the roll pan cut off that was posted a couple years ago. If you're serious about this, I'd start checking out NASCAR photos, as they use the same basic principle to try and get a bit of diffuser effect. Now my intention is to do a diffuser. I set my fuel cell in the car so that the bottom of the cell lined up with the bottom of the roll pan and also the fenders. I figure a flat bottom should be pretty easy to make. One thing with diffusers is that they need to be close to the ground. Even though Darius's diffuser is very pretty, I don't think it is going to do much. There was an article in Race Car Engineering where they tested a Lotus diffuser and it wasn't doing much at all until they got the side fences down to about 2" off the ground. That's not going to be very street friendly...

After a few pumps??? Sounds like you need a new brake master cylinder. The test for that is to very slowly put pressure on the brake pedal. If it goes to the floor, then your master is bad. Once that is fixed then you can check the booster. The idea is that the booster should hold vacuum after the car is turned off, so if your engine dies for some reason when you're driving you still have several power assisted stops before you run out of power brakes. If you step on the brake with the car off and the pedal feels rock hard, that is an indication that you're losing the vacuum in the booster. You can't really do that test if the master is bad. It is tough to diagnose problems over the internet but I think in all likelihood you need a master cylinder and a booster.

Probably a hole in the diaphragm. That means you need a new booster. Does the booster hold vacuum when the car is off?

That's OK, I think I get the picture now. I just hadn't actually seen what makes them different. I'm thinking I'll run what I've got and start rubbing nickels together for a new set of plates down the road.