JMortensen

Let's just move on with the conversation about what guns I should test. This is a very political subject and I'd like to not ruin the thread discussing why I have what I have or want what I want.

Shotguns are an excellent home defense weapon because the shot won't penetrate walls and go into another room, not to mention aiming is less critical.

Anyone care to comment on the double action vs double/single action trigger mechanisms of the Glock and SD vs the Sig and CZ? Seems like double/single is the way to go if I'm just punching holes in paper...

Why .40 S&W? Because it seems like a nice sized round for a semi-auto handgun. I don't have a problem with the 10mm, but it seems like the .40 will get the job done and doesn't beat up the gun as much. Again it's been a long time since I was really into the scene and the situation may have changed, but I recall the 10mm Glocks having wear issues that the .40's were not supposed to suffer from. Also with the Sig I know it is possible to get a different barrel and have a convertible pistol that does 40 S&W and .357 SIG. The case length is the same so they use the same magazine. So that would be a way to get a little hotter round if I so desired, although I hear that the .357 is insanely loud due to the really high case pressures. Not sure if the other .40 S&W guns have that option... Besides, if I want a really powerful handgun it will be a Casull or a Ruger Bisley, maybe a Super Blackhawk. The rounded grip makes recoil of bigger rounds much more tolerable in my experience. This gun is not really for self defense, just mainly to have fun with. I have a shotgun for home defense and I don't carry, so it's really just a toy.

I've always been a revolver fan, particularly single action revolvers, but I'm going to pick up a semi-auto pistol here pretty soon. I really haven't been into the gun scene for about 10 years or so, and even then I was more about shooting clay pigeons with my buddies than competitive shooting or anything really hardcore. That said I would like a quality weapon as I've had some bad experiences with cheap .45's in the past. One in particular would eject hot cases at my forehead and jammed it seemed like every 5 shots or so. So far I've been looking at the Sig P226 and Glock 22. Anyone have any other suggestions? I am going to hit an indoor range this weekend and rent some guns, just looking to see if there is something else I should be trying out.

Here is one of the threads Terry is referring to: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=87758 I prefer a rod end style joint here that doesn't rely on a bushing compressing and putting a bending load on the TC rod to allow movement of the suspension. I know that you guys have some pretty restrictive laws in Australia that may not allow for the modifications necessary to install a rod end, so that may not be an option. This is a technical post, so I'm going to move it to the brakes/wheels/suspension/chassis forum.

I should have listened... When I went to install this with the strut in place I found that the bolts that hold the strut to the steer knuckle are hitting the bracket that I welded together. I'm going to have to redesign the bracket and lose the TC rod's direct angle to the ball joint. What's one more do-over? I'm going to see if your bracket clears my sway bar bracket that is welded to the top of the control arm. Not sure if it will, it looks close from the pictures.

1. The independent rear suspension in the Z loads the rear tires much more evenly than a solid rear axle, so it is very common for a Z to leave two black stripes. If you want to check for an LSD by driving the car, do some donuts. Turning will unload the inside tire and that will lead to spinning one tire if there is no LSD. 2. Pull the cover, compare the carrier to the pictures in the thread you linked to. Not LSD: LSD:

Changed title. We want people to know what the thread is about without having to open it. Jtr? doesn't convey much about the subject of your thread.

There are threads on the Phantom Grip here. Search and you'll find them. There is a reason why I didn't include it in this thread.

And what are you going to get after going through all the hassle to run them? How many hp is this going to free up? Especially when you're on a site where people swap in V8s and big turbo motors, spending all this $$$ on roller rockers on an L series just doesn't make a lot of sense from a hp to $$$ perspective.

I ordered one just fine. Cost of the tool was cheaper than the shipping as I recall.

I've never seen the Jim Cook flares in person, but they look kinda like that to me. Less convex than the MSA or MAS street flares.

There are guidelines to prevent issues with the pistons and rings. The How to Modify book suggests that you don't get closer than .040" from the top of the ring. When I did my L28 I only went about 2/3rds of the way from the deck to the first ring, but the notches are a lot shallower on an L28.

Did you buy those plates with the holes, or make them?

I had my engine compartment painted with Rustoleum for the last 10 years. Looked great. Held up great. I painted the exterior with Rustoleum. It seems to be coming out pretty good too, I haven't wet sanded it yet. The interior takes a lot more wear, and that's where I regret using Rustoleum, because it is apparent that it is going to be a problem already.

Might make sense if you had twin turbos and two separate exhaust systems for the front and back 3 cylinders. With a single turbo and a single downpipe it doesn't make any sense at all to then split it into two pipes to run out the back.

I don't think that's going to be enough. The shock length is the same so you can put spacers in but they're just going to preload the spring and remove some droop, but they won't lift the chassis as needed in my opinion. The car still has shorter strut tubes and insulators in it. The real fix is to get the right insulators, and either section the front struts to bring the front end down to match the rear, or get the 280 strut tubes to restore the rear ride height.

You can download a 82 ZX manual off of carfiche.com. There is a picture of the exhaust manifold on page EM-2. As I recall there were two different manifolds, the longer lighter one and the shorter fatter heavier one. This one looks like the shorter one.

What's the point of getting flares if you're not going to fill them up? I suggest you take a look at Diamond Racing wheels or some other cheapie wide wheels.

I changed the title for you. I guess I need to remind you of the original title. I can't remember exactly, but it was something like "Does anyone know?" or "I have a question."

In thinking about this for another minute I think the 4.08 is a ratio that comes in the shortnose diffs. I think those shortnose units might have a crush sleeve. A crush sleeve doesn't set the pinion depth (unless you really don't crush it far enough), but it does set the pinion bearing preload, which may have been what you screwed up. This has nothing to do with the longnose diff though which is presumably what Monkey was talking about.

Wrong. The pinion nut does not set the depth. Depth is set by the shim stack underneath the pressed on bearing on the pinion head. Check the FSM if you have questions on this procedure. The R200 longnose diff also does not have a crush sleeve, so changing torque on the pinion nut does not affect pinion bearing preload. In my opinion the backlash is very unlikely to be wrong. It doesn't change itself so unless the carrier bearings got screwed up somehow or somebody changed the backlash incorrectly it won't be wrong. The ball bearing at the front end of the diff just under the pinion seal is the likely culprit, they go bad a lot. You'll have to pull it apart to check for sure though; all the speculation is just speculation.

What no paint are you talking about? Mine's painted with Zero Rust and a top coat of gray rustoleum. I think I'm going to regret the Rustoleum, supposedly it scratches off interior parts really easily. Apparently they have a new epoxy version for appliances that is supposed to be more durable for interiors.

Please put a descriptive title on your posts so that someone searching for info knows what your post is about without having to open it.