JMortensen

This is the main benefit as I understand it between the new version and the old version. When the articulation occurs, it is the gold bearing on the dome shaped bottom of the camber plate, so that is aluminum on steel. I'm just wondering if that causes issues.

No kit. One member here, 240hoke, used Corvette front hubs and brakes, but I'm not sure what year they were off of and whether it was a C4, C5 or C6. I'm pretty sure they weren't C3 or older. Do a search and you may find some info, or you could PM him directly about it.

So it looks kind of similar to the G Machine TC rod joint where there is a ball and socket type deal. Is one piece aluminum and the other steel though? That seems like it would wear fast... EDIT--Forrest, they changed them years ago. Maybe 5 or more... ???

Does anyone have a picture of the bottom side of a current Ground Control camber plate? I know they are supposed to be vastly improved over my old style plate and I'm wondering what the difference is exactly.

From http://www.hoosiertire.com/faqrr.htm:

You mean gains positive camber. Force in at the bottom of the tire pulls out at the top of the tire; like a strut tower bar keeps the strut top from flexing outward under cornering loads.

Thanks! Sure! Just as soon as I'm done with my stuff... Really it isn't a big deal to do this. Took me a bit of time to make a cardboard template to fit and then its just cutting and grinding the metal to fit the strut tube correctly. You could make the gussets and then have a local shop weld it up for you if you can't weld. I will mail you the template if you want. John, it makes sense to me that the spindle isn't connected to the strut tube as well as it could be, and I'm going to run some huge tires and heavy springs. It didn't take long or cost much, and I've seen it on other cars, so I figured what the hell. I was making spacers for the Bilsteins to fit in the strut tube anyway, might as well do this while I'm in there.

I don't think this is true. I think if you asked Wilwood they'd say that the forged SL is stiffer than the billet 6 piston. The 6 piston is used to keep the pads from tapering. Best to ask them directly though, since all of their advertising is filled with superlatives. Funny thing about Dave: back in the day when he was still advertising a full tube chassis he advertised the 12.2" x 4 piston setup as "for Z cars that regularly see 200+ mph".

I think it was Socrates or Plato who wrote about how screwed up the next generation was around 350 BC. The next generation will probably be much more inclined to know how to take apart a computer (or a program) than a car, but I have no fear of them being completely useless. The curriculum bit is a political hot button so we'll need to avoid that one here, but you might pick up "The Language Police" if you'd like to be infuriated about the situation.

Start your own thread. I agree with John though, it's overkill so it's more weight you're carrying around.

I guess I'm one of those, except the math was pretty minimal in my case. As to the school and intelligence idea, I think the ability to remember is tested too much and the ability to think is not tested enough. In the real world, the ability to remember is not as important, because obscure facts can be looked up, but the ability to analyze and actually think through a problem is invaluable.

1.65" rotor seems HUGE. I think the 1.2 rotor is more than enough heat capacity, and you really don't hear people talking about boiling fluid or fading with these larger brakes too much. Downside to too much brake of course is rotating mass. The car looks nice!

One thing to note is the tendency towards a 3.5" bolt space on the aftermarket Wilwoods for Z's. I can't really see any reason why our calipers need the same bolt spacing as the strut has, especially since we're using an adapter bracket. I think if you went to the other spacing (5.25" I think it is) you'd have a lot more selection. I looked at the website linked to above, but wasn't able to identify the same calipers on Wilwood's site.

Nevermind my previous comment. I like the two tone.

In thinking about this, if it didn't leak I don't know what the harm would be.

I agree about the complete car. I think you could sell it with the old engine and sell your new engine separately if you wanted to maximize dollars. You've really got me wondering what the new project would be. Is it a secret? Regardless I hope you stick around even if you do sell the car. Your insight is much appreciated.

Was that the C5R that he raced at the 24 Hours of Daytona, or a regular Vette? If it was the race car, the C5R really is in a whole other league with regards to brakes.

Others have documented flexing, which changes camber under heavy lateral loads. The .060" sheet metal gusset is not adding any significant weight. A couple ounces (literally) isn't going to matter.

Everything I do is mig. .060" sheet. Thanks Davy.

Pics of today's effort. Did both struts, but they look the same so only sharing pics of one. I know Cary had posted about strut tubes and camber change, and I tried to find that post and put these pics there, but no luck...

At one point maybe 10 years ago I was trying to turn threads onto the stock TC rod to make it adjustable for caster. I found that all the ones I had access to were bent. I can't recall how much, and it might not have been as much as that one, but I wasn't able to run a die down them.