JMortensen

Buy a used R200 and swap the LSD into the new unit. Info on the swap procedure here: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=119990 As a rule you should NEVER mix rings and pinions, even if they're the same ratio. They get matched to each other during the manufacturing process and are not interchangeable.

I like the stripes. Very cool design and good choice of colors too. I'm also in the middle of my first paint job, and from my extremely limited experience it looks like you could have thinned the paint a bit more so it would lay flatter.

So uhh... since you're out there measuring... would it be easy for you to measure the motion ratio of the swaybar(s)? Can't remember if you have a rear bar or not...

I suppose it helps if your mouse doesn't suck...

Paulo, why don't you think of everything you want to say and then just make one big post? I was being harsh before, you're right. But you're also the only member I'm aware of who has had groups of people come from other forums to warn us about. I think if you check you'll see that Hybrid Z is bending over backwards to give you the benefit of the doubt. Would you provide some part numbers that you manufacture for the companies you mentioned?

A BUNCH. In fact, after I posted I was thinking and I believe there might be a 38mm Weber. So 38, 40, 42, 45, 48, 50, and I think 55 are all out there, and there should be a manifold to fit each one. I'm guessing I'm missing quite a few.

Racers loosen everything up as much as possible when it rains. Lower spring rates, softer shock valving, etc. The rear swaybar will hurt, not help, as it tries to lift the inside tire to reduce body roll, reducing traction. The LSD is a mixed bag in my opinion. You'll be less likely to spin the tires, but if you have any power at all it shouldn't be hard to get them to spin anyway. Once they break loose I feel that it is easier to control a car with the LSD than without. At some point skinnier tires are better than wider ones. I don't know exactly where that point is on a Z, but you might try a 205 on that 7" rim and see if that makes it better.

If you're measuring the carb side, then you have a 40mm manifold. Regardless, the carb side should be bigger and will taper down to the head side.

The way I'm seeing it, the flow rate of the carb is being taken into account, but the "suck rate" of the cylinders is not. In addition the flow rate of the runners, which is probably even more important is being ignored. Seems to me that the nicely tapered relatively straight shot runners of the triple carb manifold with a 44mm hole on the outer end would flow more than the log manifold that the AZC setup uses. I wonder how big the outer end of the runners are on that manifold. I'm guessing they aren't near 44mm...

I made sure da-man won't be back... Not sure why he got his panties in a wad over my post, but attacking an admin is not a good idea. I did some checking and his last post that he was taken to task on was saying that he put 700 hp in front of a T5 and it held up beautifully. To say stuff like that and expect not to be questioned is asking a little much. Just to clarify I used to take a couple trips out to Buttonwillow raceway a year and I would pay to enter and then take tires off of the junk pile. Lots of "competitive racers" will use a tire a couple times and then throw it away because it's a couple tenths slower than a new one. So I ran those for years. Tire budget, maybe $20 to $30 per year for the $10 entry fee to get into the race track. I suppose you would have to include mounting and balancing the tires too, which might be $50 per set. I'm not including regular maintenance like oil changes every 3K or modifications because they weren't really necessary for me to go race every month. And no, sorry, I can't provide my McDonalds or Denny's receipts from 5+ year ago to prove my eating expenses.

No. The conventional strut is all cast together, and there is no easy way to modify it.Here is a pic from the photo gallery. It isn't the best for the purpose of explaining how it is assembled, but it is the best one I could find. Six Shooter, if you don't know, please do some research before you post. I found that picture in less than the time it would have taken you to post.

For drag racing that diff should provide years of maintenance free service.

Why all the doom and gloom? If you want to go cheap, drive your street car at an autox and run HPDEs or time trials. If you want to run a road racing series and be top ten in the nation, yeah, you better have a big bankroll. For years I was a big fish in a very small pond autoxing with my car that I built in my early 20s while making $14/hr or less. Then that event was shut down and I moved to a larger club and was still in the top 1/4 or 1/5th of the field in raw times. My PAX numbers were usually about twice as high as my raw score, showing how underprepared the car was. Still, I made it to the autox RELIGIOUSLY for ~8 years on my up to $14/hr wage. At $25 per autox for entry fees, $25 for breakfast/lunch/dinner and $25 for gas to the event and back (it was a long haul) I suppose I spent about $900/year. I also did several HPDE track days a year towards the end there, they were usually in the $150/day range for entry fees. Hybrid Z'ers should also keep in mind that since we usually run in a pretty much unlimited class that it takes big money to be competitive in that class, but usually takes relatively little money to blow away the majority of the field in a relatively cheap car. I think where you spend a LOT of money is in replacing an ITS engine or worse yet a GT2 engine. You can get more power from a cheaper engine if you're not constricted by the rules by swapping in what for those classes would be an illegal turbocharger or V8. Same can be said for brakes and other chassis and suspension mods.

Six Shooter, do a search on Techno Toy Tuning struts...

Depends on your tire size, diff ratio and transmission. Here is a calculator: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=129842

I started a new thread with a poll for this subject here, thinking it will get better visibility: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=129842

This post was copied from another thread:

We keep having people from other forums post on our forum about being cheated by Paulo with regards to carbon fiber parts. We are trying to find out what your experience has been with his products. The poll question is for ESTABLISHED Hybrid Z members only who have purchased Z parts from Paulo. If you fit this category, please respond to the poll and tell us how the transaction went, and feel free to post your thoughts about your transaction in this thread.

Rick, how long ago did you pay for the parts that you never received? Any contact from Paulo about that situation? Anyone else unhappy? My understanding was that in the other thread there were a bunch of people who paid up front and ended up waiting too long and got a refund. This is the first instance I've heard where either the part wasn't usable or the payment was made and nothing was received.

We don't allow ANYONE to come here and have their first post be a flame towards a vendor, emotional or not. That's not a new phenomenon. We will allow criticism from our own membership about a vendor. Nothing new here either. knofs wasn't nasty with me either (although he did insinuate that either I or Hybrid Z was somehow making money by allowing Paulo to be here which is not true), but his only purpose for being here was to flame Paulo. It's not the first time this has happened, but again, as of yet I haven't seen a single member post about their bad experience.

knonfs was just banned. He had no business here other than trying to tear Paulo's reputation down. This is getting quite annoying from the administrative side of things. Seems like Paulo has made a lot of enemies. QUESTION: Do we have a single member here, not somebody we don't know but one of our established members who owns a Z and bought Z parts from Paulo who either: a. ordered something and never got either the part ordered or a refund? b. got a part which was so bad that it was unusable? So far I haven't seen either instance. If it has happened to you, please post your experience here.

I bet if you asked this question at http://www.classiczcars.com they'd have an answer in no time flat.

Yes, it matters. The whole idea of Hybrid Z is to use the parts that function the best, not the parts you're nostalgic for. Unfortunately, this thread doesn't seem to be getting us any closer to finding out which is better.

The ported dual SU's flow 360 for the two combined. I looked and found that a 44 Mikuni runner flows 211 cfm per tube. So x 6 that's a 1266cfm for the engine as a whole, which I've always heard is supposed to be extremely "over cabureted". How is that flowing less than a single Holley 390 that has to feed 6 cylinders through a relatively convoluted manifold? This is just more speculation here that doesn't add up. This whole thread is old, useless, and annoying. If someone wants to pony up some cash and actually TEST something, that would be great. As it is I'm pretty tempted to tool shed this one.

Your title isn't very good. We want people to know what the thread is about before they open the thread. You'll appreciate the reasoning when you go to look for info. I'm going to fix it for you. Also, it might be a good idea to tell us what you're building the car to for (street, drag, autox, show, etc), how much money you have to spend, goals for the car, etc.