JMortensen

If you've gone to the trouble to install the LS1, it shouldn't be too much effort to put a set of wheels and tires on it to put the power down. I'd put a 195 or a 205 on a 7" rim generally speaking, and that isn't nearly enough tire for your usage.

I agree. I'm thinking that the strut tops are the thickest metal in the whole unibody. These bars bolt straight to the strut top, so you're basically relying on the tube itself. So long as the tube thickness is reasonable that bar should be plenty sturdy. I've installed "harness bars" in 911's that were not nearly as robust as this thing is, and they were specifically sold for the job of attaching harnesses. I don't think I'd attach my harnesses to a bar with small rod ends like the MSA bar or anything like that, because then the rod end is the most likely potential failure point, but in my opinion this one should be fine.

The RX7 is a 4 link setup, and the wagon is a leaf spring setup. Not that this is an insurmountable obstacle, but it's a bit involved. The one thing I've noticed with the 510 wagons is that the floor pan is too low to allow for decent suspension travel, especially when the rear is lowered a lot. If I were doing up a 510 I'd find a sedan, but if you really wanted a wagon I'd cut out the floor and allow room for the axle to have a reasonable degree of bump travel, then I'd do circle track style sliders instead of rear shackles, then if you're putting down a whole bunch of power some generic traction bars. I tried to convince my friends to do this on theirs, but no luck so far...

I wouldn't take it apart just to clean it. It's unlikely it's dirty in between layers, don't you think?

Dan just said it isn't done yet. Try again later today or tomorrow.

Thanks Tookie. I'm glad I took your advice and didn't try to put the formica on the front face.

I grew up in Southern California where packs of coyotes would literally run down my street. I've seen several pets dragged away by coyotes. My parent's mini schnauzer was attacked but survived a couple years ago, and that attack happened in the back yard surrounded by a concrete block retaining wall. Twice in 20 or so years there were reports of attacks on people. One was a woman on horseback and a large pack attacked her and the horse. That was in the middle of a long drought and they were probably starving to death, but still they can be dangerous. I kind of miss hearing the calls at night. You could really hear them howling at 2 or 3 in the morning, but if I were in the position you described I'd be putting a shotgun near the back door just in case there is a next time.

If you're just going to copy someone else, I'd copy this: But the better way to go would be to remove the spring and bottom the strut and keep cutting until you have tire clearance. Then put the flare wherever it happens to fit.

Well it's all done. Ended up going to Lowes and they didn't have the rounded corner bit, just the beveled one. So I used my 1/8" radius bit. The bit didn't really leave the corner super smooth, so I broke out the sandpaper and the sanding block, started with 80 and then switched to 240. Cutting the larger radius did indeed leave more of the brown part of the formica exposed, but it almost looks like a pin stripe to me and when I varnished the front piece it really made the brown stripe dark and shiny. Varnish really helped that front trim piece too. Before the varnish it didn't have much grain or color differentiation at all. I think it turned out really nice. The seam on the top came out TIGHT, and then I wiped a bit of almond colored caulk (same stuff I used to seal the formica to the wall) into the seam and it damn near disappeared. I'm very happy with the way it all came out. Thank you everyone who offered advice. I now have one more skill in my bag of tricks. Carpet is coming in a couple weeks for anyone wondering what is up with the floor. It had Pergo before and the adjoining room is our TV room, so it was driving me nuts with the echo and plus the dog walking around sounded like she had little tap shoes on her paws. Carpet will be much nicer. I have the toe plate for the bottom of the cabinets, but I think I'm going to hold off on installing it until the carpet is in.

Please use proper English and punctuation and a spell checker too. I don't even know what your question is after reading what you have written above.

That's too low. Look at 240hoke's post about ZG flares and mounting them. The post has all the info you need: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=113064

You still have the State's Atty Gen, BAR, the BBB, and lastly small claims court as options.

You know the master cylinder test right? Slow light pressure on the pedal. If it goes to the floor, needs replacing. Hard pressure will force the seal hard against the bore and will mask a bad master. So it may not be just a bleed. I'd suggest a new one rather than a reman if it does go that route.

This one is about struts, not springs. Search or call Tokico.

The bearing puller that Mike C has is specifically designed for the job of pulling carrier bearings without deforming them. It isn't an appropriate sized splitter, it is a special tool called a carrier bearing puller. Some diffs (Danas) require that you shim the backlash under the carrier bearing, hence the existence of such a tool. Here it is for sale on Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Carrier-Bearing-Puller-Tool-Dana/dp/B000KCJPMC

I think I'll go get the bit from Lowes, and if I don't like the result I'll go further with my 1/4" radius bit.

You can use silicone instead of a gasket for the front cover.

You really don't need to pull the arms at all if you're just changing the struts. Just disconnect the swaybars, brake lines, and driveshafts, lean the struts out from under the fenders and put your spring compressor on it right there. Too late for you, but hopefully somebody else will see this and save themselves some time.

Sorry Mat, I was just going to show pictures when it was all done instead. No this is downstairs in the room where you set up Amelie's play pen. The room that had the built-ins that we tore out. The idea on the radius is to glue the formica down and THEN cut the radius. If that still won't work, then I guess I need to go get the right bit from the Lowes...

No! You NEVER want to swap the ring gear with another diff, even if they're the same ratio. The LSD may very well swap, but you should use the original ring gear. I am aware that the ring gears in the R180's changed in the mid 70's, but I'm not aware of any other changes to the ring gears after that. As long as the ID of the ring gears is the same it should work. Might have to bush the bolts if they had a 10mm to 12mm bolt size switch or something similar like the R200's did.