JMortensen

I've been sidetracked from the car for about the last week or so installing cabinets and trying to get the countertop figured out. I've got a 14' wall and I've installed the cabinets and a 3/4" plywood top for the whole wall. I left about a 4' space in the middle, and I'm going to make a desk/work area in that spot. I'll have to get an extra tall chair because the counter height is 36" as installed. The cabinets are all shimmed and screwed to the wall, so it's coming together, I'm just stuck on these damn Formica countertops. The cabinets needed to be spaced 2" away from the wall so the pre-made countertops don't work. I bought a roll of Formica and basically I need to cut it to the correct depth of about 27 1/4" and then dress the front. I have a 10' by 5' roll of Formica that was special ordered, so I know there is going to be a seam in the countertop somewhere. I've read some online and talked to a few people and most are recommending that I use a router with a straight bit to cut the Formica to the right depth of 27 1/4". I guess feedback here would be nice. Is there an easier way, or is that pretty much the best way to go. The bigger problem is figuring out the front face and what to do there. All the examples I've seen talk about putting on a piece that is 1/2" by 1 1/2" or something like that, and then running a strip of Formica down the front face. When I put a strip that tall on the front it hits the tops of the drawers, so that seems to be a problem. Even if it's shorter it seems like anything that hangs down below the ply would be a finger pincher. Would it be a bad idea to just glue the Formica to the edge of the 3/4 plywood instead? I suppose if the plywood surface is a problem I can probably get a 3/4" x 3/4" trim piece and put the Formica on that instead. And once I figure out trim or no trim in front, I think the basic procedure is as follows: Cut Formica top to correct depth. Glue to plywood (yes, I know about the dowels and all that). Cut the 3/4" or whatever it ends up being strip for the front face. Glue it to the front trim or edge of the plywood. The last step seems to be to then router a bevel on the edge. Am I missing anything? Sound like a good plan? Suggestions on router bits? Thanks all.

You seem to be taking my comments too personally. Take a step back and a deep breath. What I'm saying is that there is a new generation of workers who won't take kindly to your rules. That doesn't mean that I'm saying that your business will fail, or that people hate you as a boss or anything else. All I'm trying to get across is that there are people out there like me who won't work for someone who has the mindset that employees computer usage needs to be monitored by the keystroke. That's all. If I was the right man for the job, I'd turn it down. Good luck with your business. EDIT--I'm apparently not the only one who feels this way: http://apcmag.com/3113/unlock_work_internet_or_risk_losing_staff_microsoft And the follow up: http://apcmag.com/3915/working_9_to_5_is_obsolete_says_microsoft

Yeah, you're missing something if you don't have any splines at all.

I guess I'm still confused about the spline part. If the adapter fits tightly on the splines but the nut bottoms before it hits the adapter, then a washer should fix the problem. I think the stock wheel usually has a thick lock washer on it. If that wasn't enough thickness I guess you might need another thick flat washer too.

Fair enough. I just wanted to give you the worker's perspective. You may be losing out on hiring and keeping potentially good employees due to your policy. It may very well be that your business thrives despite your policy.

Something isn't adding up. You should have the adapter that fits the spline on the steering column. This attaches with the big nut just like the stock wheel. Then there is a bolt on piece a couple inches long (looks like a metal cup) that attaches the wheel to the adapter. Then the steering wheel bolts to the the cup. What part don't you have?

I'll PM you some suggestions. If anyone else has any questions just PM me or email through the website, or call.

Sounds like you left the adapter in the old car. You need the appropriate steering wheel adapter that fits the spline of the steering column and will bolt up to the wheel.

This is a bit of a side track, but I would suggest that it is better to give employees a task, and worry about whether or not they complete it and the quality of the finished product. That should be the measure of "good work" in my opinion. When I was working for other people the thing that bothered me more than anything else was having to "look busy" when there was nothing to do and the boss walked through. If these employees ALWAYS have something to do just by the nature of the job then I guess you have a legitimate gripe. If that's not the case then it sounds like Theory X management is the choice you've made for managing your business, and my choice as a valuable employee was always to get another job as quickly as possible when I realized I was in that environment. Two sides to every story is the point. I tend to think that the better skilled the employee is, the less "under your thumb" he is, and so the less crap he'll put up with before just leaving and getting another job. The ones that get trapped are the useless ones. It's a weird niche, but it's working out pretty well for me. I don't manufacture anything by the way, just resell.

http://www.thepetdoorstore.com

Duplicate threads merged.

Get a job or start a business that requires you to be online pretty much all day. Then just give in and surf whenever you want for whatever you want. Works for me.

Forgot to mention: CLEAN THE TUBING BEFORE WELDING IT.

Just got a little more info on the Bilsteins. Apparently the part number we're using is valved 256/72 in stock form. This looks to me like a very good setup for springs in the 2-300 in lb range right out of the box. I wish I had known about them when I was using my car as a dual purpose vehicle for street and track.

No. 85-89 300ZX Turbo CV shafts will work with an adapter from http://www.modernmotorsports.com, or the original U joint style half shafts will work, assuming you have the R200 side shafts for the diff from a 75-83 280Z with an R200. There is a lot more info on CV conversions in my sticky thread in this forum.

You jus need to be the pack leeder. Be calm and assertive, and set rules boundaries and limeetations. Seriously, I wouldn't give up so fast. Looks like the dog has had puppies.

My guess is that you don't need the toe in on the rear anymore. Looks very mean on the track. I'll be interested to hear your report from the track day next week.

It's amazing the difference that the angled cut and the cover over the edge makes. Looks much nicer!

The "tool box" area is important structurally. It's actually a torque box. You can get away with cutting it out like you have, but you should do some reinforcing there for what has been lost. Might I suggest an X from the rear strut towers to the bottom of the hoop?

I hear you Cameron. My wife just walked in and said "I agree with Mr. Cameron" I might put it on my "things to do once it's up and running" list but when I stumble onto a really good idea like this I just want to implement it so damn bad...

My brother-in-law Mat (screen name Matman) has a ton of glass if you guys need it. Shouldn't be hard to ship. racermat(AT)earthlink.net

According to their site it IS lexan, just with their proprietary coating.

That is pretty far off topic for this post. You might start a new post to discuss other ideas of how to obtain the camber you're looking for.

My idea for this was to screw a piece of Lexan into the existing window frame. I ended up nixing the idea because apparently most track day places now require that both windows be rolled down.

Dan and Tom, what size bearing are you guys going to use for the rear? I'm thinking about using a 3/4" rod end back there, since it carries ALL the load, then using a reducer bushing to 5/8, running a longer spindle pin through the strut to the front and then for convenience sake using a 5/8" turn buckle and rod ends for the toe adjustment up front on a double shear mount to the main part of the control arm. The front part seems overkill, but the spindle pin hole is just too perfectly sized not to use it. Have you guys given this stuff any thought yet? I'm just looking in the Coleman catalog trying to figure out how much this project will set me back... I know Dan is likely going to use chromoly. I'll use mild DOM. Wondering what diameter and thickness to run too. If I used Coleman's off the shelf threaded tube ends that would mean a 1" ID tube, maybe a .095" wall. Looks like they sell .095, .085, and .065. Not sure which would be best, but I tend towards the conservative side when it comes to these things...