JMortensen

What about using aluminum foil to cover the part? Wouldn't that prevent you from having to remove all the foam from the inside?

I thought the point of Hybrid Z was to stop trying to squeeze blood from a stone. Sure, at some point we're all trying to make the best of what we have, so I guess you could consider that "stone squeezing", but you get the point. In my mind there is nothing particularly heroic about suffering for another year with a turbo that is too small. If you want more power, you know what to do and how to do it. The question is how fast do you want to go?

This is a very old post, but the question is still a good one. You can use a small bracket to hook the e-brake cable to the caliper. Modern Motorsports does this with their 240SX brake kit. The other option is to adapt in a different cable. I used a 240SX ebrake cable, and it had the proper clevis for 280ZX brake calipers. I had to mount the cable to the bottom of the car and hook it up to the handle, which was really easy to do. It did require removal of the rear bell crank and attaching the cable directly to the ebrake handle. Total cost was about $10 and installation was really easy. You can install the master easily, it just bolts right up. The only thing that you would need to do is adjust the pin length in the booster. I ran this combo on my car for years.

If memory serves that will work also. I think the knurl diameter on the RX7 stud is .509" and this one is .507", plus I think I've heard of others using Quest studs.

Where's the money? The studs are like $3/ea and I paid a buck a lug nut at the tire shop for the 4 Runner lug nuts. I thought I had found the cheap alternative to ARP studs or something like that. The spacers are the pricey part, and you're not going to get around that. You could turn the hole in the cheapo spacers that you originally linked to, or you could buy the ones from Coleman and have the pilot hole machined. I think having them machined from steel would be more expensive than either of those options, unless you're in good with the machinist.

I have a solution for that one. Get some Toyota 4-Runner lug nuts. They're 12mm x 1.5 and they have the correct shank size for the Nissan factory wheels. I got mine from a tire shop. I cut the ends of the lug nuts off so the stud could poke through, but the later realized that they would have worked without cutting them. Oops... As far as the ebay thing, there was a guy who had spacers on there all the time and he had .5 inch and 1 inch spacers as I recall. Someone posted here a few years back that he was just a machinist working out of his house and he could make you basically whatever you needed. Maybe he's not on ebay anymore, but it wouldn't hurt to ask around. Also, you might want to consider a thicker spacer anyway, as your car will most likely handle better with a wider track in the front...

I have a new Morganbuilt tilt bed 17' trailer. I have dual #3500 axles, but the weight of the trailer is only #2400, so that leaves plenty of room for the car and a tire rack if I so desired. Of course, I'm towing with a pickup, so there is plenty of room in the truck bed too. I LOVE LOVE LOVE the tilt bed trailers. Especially if your car is very low, it is way more convenient not having to make or store or use super long ramps to get the car onto the trailer. I also set mine up with a battery on the trailer that charges via the plug to the tow vehicle and an electric winch, so I can just winch the car up onto the trailer if it breaks. I haven't used it much so far, just moving my completely stripped car to my new house and moving my friend's dead GMC Jimmy to his, but it did fine with both projects. That Jimmy was not real lightweight either, but my GMC 1500 pulled it fine and the trailer did it's job well too. I also moved two roll around tool boxes and a chest of drawers with it. Moving the tool boxes was SOOOOOOO easy compared to lifting the box in and out of the back of a pickup. It was amazingly easy. I literally just rolled the boxes to the end of the trailer, hooked the winch cable around a box, pulled it up with the winch, set the wheel brake, did the same on the next box and the chest of drawers, then tied them all down with axle straps. I am really happy with my purchase. One thing I'll warn you against is the length of the trailer. 17' seems short, and it is, but that doesn't count the length of the tongue, nor does it figure on the length of the tow vehicle. You need a good amount of room to turn around with a 17' trailer behind a full size pickup. The shorter the trailer the easier it will be to get in and out of a driveway, etc. EDIT--Here is my "what trailer should I buy" thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=120244

One more thing, run longer studs if you're going to do any spacers. The stock studs are just too short for a spacer. The quick and easy solution is to go to the auto parts store and get gen II RX7 studs. They're 12mm x 1.5 so you'll need lug nuts too, but they're about 1 inch longer than stock, the knurl diameter is compatible so you don't have to redrill the hubs and they're readily available.

The center pilot hole in a set of spacers like that is just barely too small for the Z hub (like .010" too small or thereabouts). I had a set of those and fought a wheel balance issue for a LONG time, took the car to a couple different wheel/tire shops, nobody could figure it out. Finally I was changing the wheels at an autox and noticed that the spacer was starting to crack, and that finally gave me the hint I needed. Changed to different spacers and that was the end of the wheel balance issue. I would suggest you buy lug-centric spacers from someone on ebay that are made for a Datsun. Coleman racing also has a good lug-centric spacer, but their pilot hole is way too small for a Z hub. I bought some and had the center hole turned to make it larger, but that was a more expensive solution than the ones you find on ebay these days.

I'd cut that thing off if nothing else attaches to it.

Changing air pressure in that undercoating gun didn't make any difference. The Zero Rust just wasn't going to come out of that thing with anything like uniformity or regularity. It did make some HUGE runs, luckily they are on the underside of the car so I don't really care. So I just gave myself a white Christmas by priming the shell with the Rustoleum primer. I used an HVLP gun that I got from Harbor Freight. It was on sale for $29.99. The gun worked great with the primer thinned about 15% with Acetone. So far so good. Now that the car is one color its much easier to see the blemishes and the dents that I filled, but didn't sand correctly. I'm just going to leave it as is, because again, its a race car and I'd like to drive it before I hit retirement age. This paint job would not be passable for a street car. At least not my street car... Here are some pictures: Rt side: See the wavy body line? What to do with old HF catalogs: Windshield area: Shaved drip rails: Wavy B pillar:

I bought a right side net and wasn't going to install it. You're the second person I've heard say that they may be required by NASA. Is that right, and do you have pics of your right side net install? I'd like to see how you have it set up. Thanks.

Go with the 1" bar. It's less likely to tear up the frame rails, and still will be plenty stiff for street/track until you start running wide sticky tires.

Dream, justin, read the big posts in the aero section and you'll find all your answers.

There's been a ton of discussion about cam sizing, but if you have stock FI there is an argument for leaving it alone. The stock FI just isn't capable of dealing with larger camshafts. Search and you will find the answers you're looking for.

If you really want overdone just dry sump and move on.

Well that pretty much decides that issue. Might still bolt a window in for autox. I'll have to see how spunky I feel when the rest of the car is all done. Thanks John.

Take a look at the Arizona Z Car pan. I don't think the hinges were aluminum, and the trapdoors are just rectangular pieces of sheet metal. They are arranged in a diamond shape probably about 5 or 6 inches square (I'm guessing because it's been a while since I've had it off and looked at it). I think you're over-analyzing it. Shouldn't be too hard to make what you need. I'm not as impressed with the pan with the small holes at the bottom. The trap door setup is simple and while I'm sure it's not a completely water tight seal it should keep more oil by the pickup than the other will.