JMortensen

This is also a bad idea. The stock and aftermarket proportioning valves both have a "knee" where the pressure reducing effect increases. Having two of them in series basically means that the harder you step on the brakes, the less the rear brakes actually do. More info at the link below: http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_proportioning_valves.shtml You guys should both do a dual master setup.

If you turn an adjustable prop valve all the way up it doesn't cut all the pressure to the rear. How much it actually reduces the pressure depends on the valve and also how much pressure you put on the pedal (because they aren't actually proportional), but I would expect it to be something like 50% max. If you can't get enough out of the adjsutable valve, the next step is dual master cylinders.

I know the Z31 longnose needs the yoke swapped. Not sure on the others, I am 99% that the 510/240/260/280/280ZX all work. There were different bolt sizes in some of the 280's too, but they still will bolt up.

Search Kameari. You will find posts about their crazy timing chain setup. Then if you want to shell out the $400+ that it costs to buy that setup, you might consider adding the part in the auction. The auction item does nothing without the other Kameari parts installed. The benefit of the Kameari setup is that you can shave the crap out of the head and take up the slack in the chain with their tensioner and if you use an adjustable cam timing gear, you don't have to shim the cam towers up or anything. That and it gives more accurate timing than the stock tensioner. Just search... please...

Clifton is right, you definitely want some toe in on a street car.

I just submitted this to Mythbusters...

If you have no adjustability added in then the only stock adjustments are front toe which should be 1/8" or about 3mm total toe in for street use. You can shim in some caster as well. Soft bushings in the TC rods will get you wander under braking, I don't think there is any real way to get around that. I know that there are some pretty severe limitations in some countries as to what you are allowed to change and remain street legal, so I'm not sure how far you can go with this stuff. Maybe slot the strut tops to even out camber if you aren't allowed to add adjustable bushings or camber plates or aftermarket control arms. Hard to say from over here... My point was that there are many other factors that you could get into before blaming the scrub radius, that seems to me to be one issue that very few even attempt to address, and it seems to me to be way down the priority list behind a whole bunch of other things.

I saw a receiver/dryer used as a surge tank 10 years ago on a Mustang. Worked great, looked like it was purpose built for the job! This one was cut in half, gutted, then welded back together. Should only need to hold a couple lbs pressure at most...

I used a hacksaw. I don't think I'd use a cutoff wheel.

Well not sure I like being called a hack, but I'll say this for my arms; they're better than the AZC stuff in a number of ways. Less bind and stiction, better sway bar articulation and adjustability, cost a hell of a lot less. Maybe I should send them in and get them zinc coated, then they'd be cool...

$2500 is a lot of money for control arms, and the benefits of most are really just toe adjustability in the rear. I'd say save your money for something that will make a bigger difference, especially for a 95% street car.

I know people do this, but it's technically not a good idea. I suspect you're running the AZC arms. If that is the case, the rod ends are 5/8" diameter. The rule of thumb for rod ends is that you should have 1.5x the thread diameter engaged. This means 15/16" of thread should be in the control arm. I think that leaves you with about 5/16" of adjustment max last time I checked. If you've got the rod ends turned out farther than 5/16" of thread showing, and it sounds like you do, then what you really should have is a longer control arm. As to tony's issues, before worrying about scrub radius, I'd look at some more conventional remedies for your ills. What kind of TC rod bushings are you using? This will drastically affect wandering under braking. What are your alignment settings? Toe in front and rear will reduce the tendency to wander. Less negative camber will also help. More caster will drastically reduce wandering at speed (at the expense of harder steering). Do you have an air dam? This too will affect wandering at speed. There are a TON of things you can do to affect your wander before you get into scrub radius. As to the ride quality, if the suspension is stock it's probably sagged out by now and also probably not stiff enough to be able to keep up with the increased unsprung weight of your big brakes and tires. Stiffer springs and better struts may seem like a backwards way to improve your driving comfort, but it may be something to look at. I can't tell you how uncomfortable I find it to ride in a car that needs struts. Not only is there that floaty bark-o-lounger feeling which makes me feel queasy, but then there is the hitting the bumpstops over small bumps or worse, in several of the Z's I've been in and owned, smacking the strut into the top hat because the bumpstop has rotted away decades ago. Nothing quite so uncomfortable as a metal-to-metal bottoming out of the suspension.

Yes an airdam with holes for brake ducts would allow more air under the car. If they were actually ducted to the brakes the idea is that the air would hopefully go through the wheel and out past the side of the car.

I have also been recently screwed on the floor model deal. I went to pick up a new 60 gal compressor from Harbor Freight but they had sold the one that they were holding for me, and so they gave me the floor model instead. It was quite a PITA for my wife and I to get the thing out of my pickup, but we did it, and I went and downloaded the instruction manual, only to find out I'm missing a BUNCH of parts. Called to see about getting the parts, they're backordered 6-10 weeks. So I called the store, they are going to order a whole new compressor and I'm going to exchange this one. So basically I get to load and unload this sucker twice to fix this BS...

Either way. IF you did the smaller duct like preith has then the air that gets into that duct HAS to go through the intercooler. If you seal the intercooler to the rad then the air that enters the intercooler HAS to go through the radiator. Probably best would be a combination of both, where the intercooler had its own duct to the front and was also sealed to the radiator. I haven't seen anyone address it yet, but it's also a good idea to put weatherstrips between the core support and the radiator so that the air can't squeeze through that gap either.

Get a bigger intercooler and seal the gap from the intercooler to the radiator. Then seal the openings between the airdam and the core support. You don't want a small intercooler, and I really feel that most guys have them sitting in the fairly stagnant air with little to no flow through the fins. If you butt the two up against each other then the air will flow through both the intercooler and the radiator. Despite the radiator being "hot" the vastly increased airflow should mean lower charge temps, at least that's my theory...

Speaking of Audi and their Le Mans team, they damaged what I suspect in the R10 would be called the stub axle in the race, which caused the wheel to exit the vehicle at 190+ mph, taking the lead car out...

It's not the same as the Ford Traction-Lok that has the S spring in between the side gears. This is a couple of plates and springs that just push straight against the side gears to limit slip. The Traction-Lok has clutches that can be replaced when they wear. The Phantom Grip does not. If you search it has been discussed before at some length. My personal opinion, not having used one myself, it's a really crappy idea and if you saved up another $200 you could get a very good Power Brute LSD from http://www.differentials.com.

That's freakin sweet. Looks like I'll be trading in my truck on a new one in a few years; gotta let them iron out the kinks first...

Those things on the Japanese car are not vortex generators. They're essentially acting as fences trying to direct the air over the spoiler or in this case the wing and preventing it from spilling over the side. I would think this would be more important for the spoiler than the wing, as the wing doesn't deflect as much air so should have less drag size for size. In this case it might just be an attempt to make the pedestals for the wing more aerodynamic.

Think about the accident avoidance capabilities of a 69 Camaro with 12" wide drag DOTs on the back and 3" pizza cutters on the front. I'm sure we've all seen them out on the highway. Bottom line is that car can't turn and it can't stop worth a damn. I understand why the government in Norway would do what they're doing, but I also agree that it is an Orwellian nightmare. "Public safety" is what is at stake, the question is: Whose responsibility is it? To a much larger extent here in the US the answer is you and I are responsible, in many other countries it's the govt. Let's get back to thanking Alan. I'd hate to have to Tool Shed another thread due to politicizing it.

Unless someone installed an LSD in it later in life, it shouldn't be a posi. The only long nose R200 that came with LSD was the 87-89 300ZX turbo, in the US anyway. I have the 200SX turbo diff as well. Mine is 4.11 and was open, and I swapped the LSD from a 300ZXT into it. Moving post to drivetrain forum.

Didn't someone post videos of this car driving around town and street racing about 6 months ago?

I'd be careful with the MSA rear bar on a 240. I don't think the 280 is a problem because the mounts are further away from the frame rails, but the 240 is not right in my experience. Mine bound on the frame like crazy and I would pick up inside rear tires when slaloming. Of course at the time I was too lazy to take the time and figure it out, so I only really realized the true extent of how bad it was when I went to make the bars adjustable last year. Get the ST rear bar and then space it back off of the uprights about 1/2" would be my suggestion, parroted from John Coffey. Whatever you decide to put on there, you should take the time to push the suspension all the way through its travel and make sure the sway bar and the end links are not binding. You can also shim under the bushing straps to minimize the squeeze of the swaybar bushings and free it up a bit, and it's really really simple to add zerks to the straps and drill a hole in the bushings so that you can grease them up. Teflon tape as suggested will go away in short order, and grease dries up fairly quickly too. Adding the zerks means you can maintain the sway bar bushings instead of just waiting for them to get worn out and replacing them. EDIT--Actually now that I think about it didn't the 73 come with the later style mounts? If so maybe you can use the 280 bar... then your only disadvantage is that it weighs about 3x as much as the ST bar.

Maybe not if he traded those 17's for some 15's...