JMortensen

Well I checked it out and to Rick's credit Toyo says you can put that 305 tire on a 10" rim. I would run the 275/35/18 on an 18x10. http://www.toyo.com/docs/tires/product_spec.asp?lpid=18968&name=Proxes%20RA-1%99&category=sport

Am I the only one who immediately thinks of building a REALLY fast sand rail when I see that footage?

I believe it is ER70-6. It's what they have a whole shelf of at any welding supply place. Not flux core, not stainless, just your standard wire.

Clean the joints then use your standard welding wire and CO2/Argon mix. No real trick to it, just a lot of cleaning involved. Cleaning it is the bitch, and although it really is a PITA I did it with no sand blasting. Just heated and scraped and wire wheeled and picked all the seam sealer out and welded away.

You might also check the cover bolts to see if they've loosened. I think it's pretty common for those to loosen on drag Zs. My favorite gear oil is SWEPCO 201 but it's pretty pricey and probably not necessary if you aren't road racing and getting the diff really hot.

Yeah, that's a bit different than what a road race tire would do. I wanted to run my 250's on a 10" rim but didn't have the room. But I guess you're asking different things of the sidewall in drag and road racing. If I were putting a 325 on my car it would go on a 13" rim.

It looks like Rick has that tire on a rim that is pretty narrow for the tread width. I did the same thing to squeeze a 250mm wide slick inside a stock fender (mounted it on an 8" rim). What I'm getting at is that tire might not fit if it were mounted on a rim that was 2" wider. As I said earlier, there needs to be room for the wheel throughout the entire suspension travel. I don't think most people check for this at all. They tend to check at ride height and call it good. I wonder if Rick has the necessary room at full compression. Rick, did you check and is there room???

Just based on anecdotal experience from others, I bought 3/4 and 7/8" masters for my dual master setup. I expect that they might not be the right size and I may have to change them to get what I want, but I'm guessing that 7/8 would work. Might be a bit high on the pedal effort. I've heard of people going as small as 5/8" but then the pedal throw gets a little long. I think you're in the right general area with the 7/8.

Why don't you pull the valve cover and try to adjust the valves and see if your sound goes away. Valves hitting pistons is not very common in my experience.

I was thinking that tongue weight was a good way to justify corner weight scales...

The jetting seems about right so I really don't think that's the issue. As x64v mentioned, this looks like a 240 distributor, so initial timing should be around 10 degrees. Where I'm going to disagree with him is on the distributor adjustment. On the 240 there is a pointer attached to the timing cover and marks are cut into the balancer. The deepest mark is 0 degrees, then there are marks at 5 degree intervals past that one. So you want two marks past the big one. You only have a limited amount of adjustment, but there are actually two adjusters on the distributor. One has a 10mm lockdown bolt and is very obvious. The other is a smaller 8mm bolt, and I didn't even know it existed until someone showed it to me. It's on the opposite side of the distributor from the first one. If both of those still don't allow you to adjust the timing enough, then you might have to pull the distributor shaft and reposition it. If you search you should find info on that, but basically it requires pulling the oil pump out of the bottom of the timing cover, moving the shaft, then reinstalling the oil pump. One more thing for you is you might want to try and verify that your timing marks haven't moved. Lots of old Datsun harmonic balancers come apart and then the outer ring with the marks can rotate over the inner ring that is actually bolted to the crankshaft. You can get a good idea of whether or not it is right by pulling the #1 spark plug and putting something long like a welding rod or a pen into the spark plug hole then turning the crank until it hits 0 degrees on the balancer and see if that's as high as the piston actually gets. If the balancer is right I'd start by replacing the coil, wires, and cap and rotor. It definitely sounds like an ignition thing to me.

If you want to tune the carbs in closer the easiest way in my opinion is to install a narrowband O2 sensor in the exhaust and use a multimeter to read it. Should be around .8V for max power. I don't think its the jetting that is causing it not to go past 5000 rpm. Sounds like an ignition problem to me. What's the timing set at? Points or electronic ignition? How old are the plugs/wires/cap/rotor? How about the coil?

Well, I put a downpayment on one today. It's a 17' Morgan Built tilt trailer. Weight is 2300 lbs, the weight of their non tilt was 2100 or thereabouts, so the extra weight to tilt was not a big deal. It does have a shock on it that makes the tilt function smoother. Other than that it looks pretty bulletproof. Wood deck, 2 #3500 axles, electric brakes, spare tire, tool box, removable fender, stake holes, really nice axle straps, hitch lock, electronic brake controller, hitch, all wired up and ready to go is going to be ~$5100 after tax. I know the car will go up the trailer without any additional ramps, that was pretty clear when you put the thing down. The approach angle was really good. The guy who helped us was super knowledgeable and helpful, so I really feel pretty strongly that I got all my bases covered. Need to figure out where to tie it down in the front, but for the rear I kinda like John's idea of the hole between the bottom of the strut and the spindle pin. I guess I could do hooks off of the bumper mounts like Cary mentioned. I'll get it figured out... Thanks for all the input guys.

R200 owners can use the 280ZXT CV shafts or the Z31T CV shafts. More details on those options in this thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=114798

I also have the last one. I found that I needed to get extra fine sand, the usual playground sand from HD didn't flow through it very well. I'd like to get another bigger one because as Cruez says you spend 1/2 your time filling the stupid thing up with sand instead of actually using it. If you want something reasonably portable I'd go with #2, maybe the 20 lb version or something light like that if you want to move it around a lot.

I'm not exactly sure, but I believe the Subtle flares add 1.5" in width. What is sure is that there is no way you're going to fit a 305 in there, unless you tub the chassis. You'll need the YZ, as I don't think it's practical to fit a 305 under the 940Z flares either. One thing to keep in mind is where the wheel goes during the suspension travel. Just because it squeezes inside the outer lip of the flare at normal ride height doesn't mean that the tire won't hit the flare or the inner fender when the suspension compresses. I was testing this for the 3" flares I'm putting on my car and found that I really can't go too far past 11" in tire width, and I think that the 11" tire will hit the inner fender on full compression of the suspension.

It's not that bad. One alternative to all the figuring that Terry is trying to do is to get some really long threaded collars. Much harder to miss and put them in the wrong place. As Terry said, I measured 3 times, cut once, then intentionally welded my struts together about 1/8" too tall. Used a shim underneath to get the gland nut tight. Much better to end up with the struts too long than too short.

I wouldn't hesitate to buy that setup if I were in the market. Main thing for most people here is that they want an R200 and there are other less expensive ways to get CVs on an R200. But for R180 or R160 guys this is a great bolt on solution, and it's particularly useful for the 510 crowd who get really really extreme halfshaft angles with lowered cars. The 2-3% power increase was proven on a dyno on an extremely low 510 according to Todd from WCR. Not sure that a Z would show the same improvement because our halfshafts aren't so twisted as to bind up like a 510 can.

Try the link again.

The rear of a ZX is not a strut setup so you can't put camber plates in back. Search the web for "slotted crossmember 510" and you'll find out what you need to do.

There was a guy on classiczcars.com who was making a really funky toe adjuster that went on right in that spot. I wonder if that's what it is. It had a lot of machined pieces and looked pretty elaborate and hard to build but the guy obviously had a lot of time and effort in it and it looked well made.

Sorry about your trouble typhoone, I really don't have much advice to give. You did use a horrible title though, so I'm going to change that for you. The reason why it is so bad is because you don't know anything about what is in the thread until you open it. In the future try to use descriptive titles. Thanks and good luck with the Z31.

This rear bar is a very smart implementation in my opinion. I was thinking about doing something very similar myself, building off of the fuel cell frame just like that. They say some of those ends are "bendable aluminum". The idea of that kinda makes my eyes cross a bit. Isn't pretty much any aluminum bendable, and if its not hardened, would you need to bend them then heat treat them to make them "non-bendable"?